'67 Ford 3000 running hot

I just tuned my 3000, plugs, wires, points, cap & rotor and changed the oil & filter. Runs great but I noticed it seems underpowered. This evening I was bush hogging one of my pastures. Grass about a foot high, so I cruised around in 3rd gear. At dark I noticed the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold were cherry red! Radiator gauge was normal, so I shut it down and checked the air cleaner filter and it seemed fine, so I cranked it up and put it in the shed. Perhaps the plugs ain't hot enough? I figured I come ask you guys what could be causing this before I run it again.
 
If youre working them hard they will turn cherry red, you cant see it in daylight. In the evening I can see fire coming out the top of the stack when round baling.
 
The exhaust glowing red is either too lean of an air/fuel mixture or timing is off. If you can't see it when it's light out it may not be an issue, but you can check both to make sure.

First, get a Service Manual, either original Ford or I&T, and follow the procedure to check the timing. It could be OK at idle and not at higher rpms if the advance mechanisms aren't working properly. There are two advances on that tractor, one is mechanical/centrifugal and works off of weights and springs in the base of the distributor. The other is vacuum based and works off of the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the diaphragm on the outside of the distributor.

Once you know the timing is correct, then move on to the air/fuel mixture adjustment procedure in the manual. If you can't get it dialed in, the carb may need to be cleaned to get the proper amount of fuel flowing to richen it up.
 
Yepper, turn it a bit in the direction that the rpms start dropping (not increasing) as you turn it with nothing else changing at the time. With you in there doing your replacements, good guess that's your problem.

When I ran gassers I had a complicated timing setting technique. I'd do what needed to be done, and with the dist. loose, roll the engine over while turning the dist till it lit off. Once on and running for a minute or two, I'd twist the dist CW till it started limping and marked the point mentally, twisted it CCW till it started limping and set the dist position mid way between the two positions. Worked for me.

You can play with the gauges and screwdrivers all day. What you are looking for in doing that is what the engine wants to run right. Letting it tell you when it's happy seems like the thing to do so that's what I did.
 
It is important to remember that point gap changes timing. I will get slammed for this, but if you consistently gap new points there is no need to check timing, it should be the same. The timing will be retarded if the points are too close and advanced if too wide. A good double check on point gap is if you need to change timing after changing points, then recheck the gap, as it will probably be wrong.

Also make sure the advance is working correctly.
 
Thank you for all the advice guys. This morning I started it up and let it warm up a few minutes and then adjusted the distributor a little to where it sounded smoother and a hair faster. I put in a gallon of gas I siphoned out of one of my other 5 gas tractors and made 5 laps around the pasture. This time I was able to use 4th gear without the constant laboring that was going on the evening before. There was no glowing this time. Perhaps we got it.
 

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