3000/3600 pressureplate to flywheel bolts

Use grade 5 to match size length and thread pitch of your other existing bolts. No need to order
anything special. Been running them in my 3000 with a double clutch for several years with no
problems.
 
(quoted from post at 04:17:52 08/25/18) Use grade 5 to match size length and thread pitch of your other existing bolts. No need to order
anything special. Been running them in my 3000 with a double clutch for several years with no
problems.
These bolt that came out of the pressure plate have a shoulder. The shoulder doesn’t allow the pressure plate to pull all the way up to the flywheel. That’s why 1 bolt sheared off. I assume all 3000/3600 double clutches are like this?
 
They are a part numbered bolt, not standard hardware. Part number is C5NN7N569A. Call your local salvage yard and see if they've saved some. When we knocked one in the head and pulled the plate off the flywheel we just threw the bolts in the same bucket as all the rest of them, but maybe you'll get lucky. They may not be that expensive through New Holland, but probably would have to be ordered.
 
$15 picked up for 1 little bolt!
What if I take a regular bolt with no shoulder- use blue thread lock- and just pull the bolt up to the same clearance as the OEM bolts on the pressure plate?
 
I had a non-farm shop do something to my mid 60's 4000 with an SOS that had to do with the flywheel. Thinking back (20 years ago), I think the spline in
the clutch disc to tranny input shaft interface was worn out and he installed a new disc.

I was standing there when he tried to start it and it made a screaming noise and something else I don't remember. In breaking it back down we discovered
that the guy's son in law, who had worked on it and wasn't a mechanic, had put too long a bolt in the PP when mounting it and it wound up rubbing against
the engine block.

My first association with a SOS drive mechanism. Makes a lot of sense to connect it just like a conventional tranny, just use the inching pedal to relieve hyd
pressure rather than have a clutch release pedal.

So, be sure you replace with the specified part.
 
Your time must not be worth anything if you are going to risk having to split the stupid thing apart again for $15.00
 
(quoted from post at 22:36:46 08/26/18) Your time must not be worth anything if you are going to risk having to split the stupid thing apart again for $15.00
And to think I wasted 3 minutes of my life reading your worthless post and even replying to you!
 

The bolts have a shoulder that fits in the holes of the pressure plate but the plate pulls up tight against the flywheel.
Some clutches have spacers between the plate and flywheel which use bolts with a longer shoulder, other clutches do not have spacers.
Also these bolts must have lock washers to set the proper shoulder depth.

Not sure which issue you have but until the plate is bolted tight against the flywheel you'll continue to break bolts.
 
If what you say is correct why can’t I use a fully threaded bolt? To pull the pressure plate tight to the flywheel and torque 14 ft/pounds- what does it matter if the bolt has a shoulder?
 

I agree that $15 is a crazy price for a bolt, I lost a couple of bolts and flat washers out of my rear hitch friday.
NH wanted $13 for each bolt and $11 for each flat washer, $5 at the local hardware store got me all of the grade 8 bolts and washers I needed.
 

The shoulder fits the hole in the plate with little room left over, this is to help prevent the plate from moving due to heavy torque loads and backlashing, thus helping to prevent breaking the bolts off.

Although it's not the correct thing to do, in a few cases where I've lost a bolt or had a bad one I have replaced 1 bolt with a standard bolt but I wouldn't want to replace all of them with standard bolts.

First thing you need to do is find out why the plate isn't drawing up tight to the flywheel, until then anything you do is a waist of time because your just going to break more bolts.
 

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