Still forzen 4400

59chevy36

Member
I am trying to get the motor in my 4400 to spin. I removed the driveshaft for the pump on the front and was able to put a socket on the bolt on the front of the crankshaft. With a 18 in breaker bar and about 200 lbs of pressure it still will not spin.I cant get much longer bar in there to give more leverage. At this point should I pull the head and see whatsup? It has had marvel mistery oil in it for a week. Any other options?
 
This isn't an answer, rather it's a question for the others: What was the consensus on the necessary brew to pour into cylinders to get them freed up? It seems to me that it was a mixture of ATF and something else, but I forgot. My 6000 appears to be stuck as well. It supposedly "ran good" when it was parked, so I'd rather not disassemble the engine if I don't have to.

To 59chevy36: I wouldn't put any more torque on that crankshaft bolt than you already have done. What I might suggest though is prying on the ring gear teeth through the starter hole. You might get a little bit more leverage that way.
 
You don't state whether it is a gas or
diesel.
If it's a diesel I would pour a cup down
each hole. If it's a gas I'd pour 2 cups in
each bore.
Borh types of engine have a pretty good dish
in the top.
The gas will hold at least a cup of oil.
I still secretly believe that MMO works
wonders.
As Bern says, I would not put any more
torque in that front bolt.
a275931.jpg
 
It is diesel . Thanks for the pic of the pistons. It is a bolt on the crank and I felt it tighten a bit when I first started to pull on it. tried the bar on the fly wheel earlier and cant get a good bite and don't want to lose a tooth.The pulley on the crank has bolt holes in it and thought about bolting a piece of rod to that to pry with. more MMO in the holes first.
 
Also, don't only try to turn it in the normal running direction of rotation. Sometimes moving it just a smidgen in the opposite direction helps free things up.
 
I'd guess you're thinking of toluene, a common paint thinner. It is made from pine sap, and can further be processed into TNT, which would help break pistons free, for sure. It's not turpentine, which I suspect would make them stick harder. I don't think it's fussy what lubricant is used. Maybe an ounce or two of two-cycle oil in a quart.

Some try DOT fluid but watch out. Don't mess with chemicals if you are going to use heat to warm up the cylinders.
 

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