Looking at a 1964 Ford 2000...

Turbo Dog

New User
Looking at a 1964 Ford 2000 with dual rear wheels. I am not familiar with this model and Tractor Data shows the transmissions as Select-O-Shift, does that mean it can be shifted while moving?

Anything special to look out for? Shows very very low (just two digits) hours and doesn't look abused, just faded.

Only needed for light work on a small ranch. Would like to add a rear blade or scraper for maintaining a 1/3 mile long road. Buy this or is an 8N better?
 

No such thing as Select-O-Shift it is Select-O-Speed. Look at the tractor to see whether it is SOS or standard stick, 2000 can be either. Disregard the hour meter. The cable was broken. SOS can be shifted while moving and while under load. It would work well for you. Far better than an 8N provided that whichever transmission it has works in all speeds. Tires are very expensive if it needs new ones. Gas or diesel? check to see if the PTO will turn a brush hog and that the 3 pt will lift and hold 500 lbs.
 
Thanks for the correction and info. I
was hoping it was a transmission with
synchros. I don't have a way to load
the hydraulics as it is sitting in a
large auction yard.

Right now it has decent condition turf
style tires on the rear and a couple
white wall car tires on the front. There
is a place out front and back to install
a trailer ball which makes me think it
was just being used to move things around.

Also noticed that it is probably still
6V and the secondary ignution parts
probably need replacing. No big deal to
me, but does someone make a modern
electronic ignition conversion kit for
it, like pertronix does?

Any thoughts on a reasonable sale price?
 
(quoted from post at 18:25:54 07/26/18) Thanks for the correction and info. I
was hoping it was a transmission with
synchros. I don't have a way to load
the hydraulics as it is sitting in a
large auction yard.

Right now it has decent condition turf
style tires on the rear and a couple
white wall car tires on the front. There
is a place out front and back to install
a trailer ball which makes me think it
was just being used to move things around.

Also noticed that it is probably still
6V and the secondary ignution parts
probably need replacing. No big deal to
me, but does someone make a modern
electronic ignition conversion kit for
it, like pertronix does?

Any thoughts on a reasonable sale price?

TD please read my post again and see if you can answer the questions.
 
Pertronix does make an EI kit for it. Better on 12V conversions,
but I would do the 12V conversion first, make sure it all works,
then add the electronic ignition later if I were going to do it.

I have no idea what they sell for in Wyoming, but in my area of
Michigan with a gas engine, SOS, turf tires, car tires on the front,
and needing some work on the electrics, $1000~$1500 if it ran
good, didn't have any other major issues and didn't smoke.
Price may vary based on looks, tin, paint, options, etc.

Asking prices seem to have gone up lately, but selling prices are down.
 
Looked at the Machinery Pete website and
this model seems to sell for around $4K
in decent shape. I'll still drive the
two hours it takes to see it in person,
but I'm not sure I'm willing to bid that
high. There is one listed for $2500 in
TX and that would cost about another
$500 in gas and food to go get it.
 
(quoted from post at 11:19:12 07/28/18) Looked at the Machinery Pete website and
this model seems to sell for around $4K
in decent shape. I'll still drive the
two hours it takes to see it in person,
but I'm not sure I'm willing to bid that
high. There is one listed for $2500 in
TX and that would cost about another
$500 in gas and food to go get it.

4K is what they are advertised for not what they sell for.
 
(quoted from post at 18:06:43 07/28/18)
(quoted from post at 11:19:12 07/28/18) Looked at the Machinery Pete website and
this model seems to sell for around $4K
in decent shape. I'll still drive the
two hours it takes to see it in person,
but I'm not sure I'm willing to bid that
high. There is one listed for $2500 in
TX and that would cost about another
$500 in gas and food to go get it.

4K is what they are advertised for not what they sell for.
Agreed. I paid $1500 for my 1964 4000 rowcrop. Tires had some checking. Everything else worked as it should.
 
Forget the N.

I have a '64 2000 with 3800 original no wrench on the engine proper hours. Had it for longer than I can remember......25 years????? It's a tranny PTO
and 4 speed non sync tranny. This is a rock solid, reliable tractor but being a tranny driven PTO, the tractor has to be moving for the PTO to turn when
engaged.....a PIA in most applications, especially mowing in corners. The other thing is 4 speeds means the gears are far apart and in 1st gear it runs
pretty fast. really too fast.

I had a mid 60's 4000, same tractor just a little larger, with the SOS. Here are my findings:

The SOS has 10 speeds and independent PTO. This means that you can run dead slow...needed for some blade work, or lightening fast when blasting
down the road. The PTO being independent means that the PTO runs as long as the engine is running and you have the lever engaged.....regardless of
what else the tractor is doing....aka what gear it's in, is it moving, do you have the clutch pushed in....no clutch on SOS just an inching pedal that acts as
a clutch when you have it in gear (other than N) and want to stop.

Problems can be problematic. Around here all the good mechanics died off. There are some good ones on this site for help.

Like on your car, the transmission has "bands" that are like a brake strap that trucks used to use....strap around the drive shaft that you pull up on a
lever to lock it to the drive shaft and keep the truck from moving. These straps have a pad attached....like a regular brake shoe pad....sorta and like
brake pads over it's life they wear and need adjusting. The pad needs to be in good working order to get traction.

On the side of the transmission housing are 3 large studs protruding about half way down the tranny housing with a large lock nut. I think 2 are on the
left side and one on the right side (or vise versa). The length of the threads sticking out tells you how much pad you have left...the longer the better. I
had mine adjusted to where there weren't any threads showing and still was able to get all the traction I felt the tractor could produce....aka badly worn
out bands but still worked aok.

Other than that, good clean fluid and I'd use premium UTF fluid. I think Larry NCKS (North Central Kansas I think) is one of the SOS knowledgeable
folks to help you with any problems. Might give him a ding.
 
Thanks for all the info. I went to go see it in person today. It is pretty clean, shows signs of having gone through a restoration some years ago. The gas tank was clean, transmission fluid looked brand new but the engine oil was dark black but still felt slick. Belts were of different ages, some dry some not. Front tires were fine, the rears were 8.3x24 and are dry with some light cracking but holding air fine. All levers worked but I couldn't start it because of a dead battery. The pto shaft was covered in old dirty oil showing a leaking seal but also showing that it hasn't been used in a long time.

I looked up those turf tires and they are around $335 each. Normal ag tires are half that price. It's primary use will be to maintain a gravel road. Should I spend the extra money for the turf tires to grade the road? Are standard ag tread tires too aggressive for a gravel road? Will the duals be needed for road work?

I did set up an auto bid max amount around the prices yall have been suggesting. Thanks again for all the help.
 
I'll also add that the heim joints in the 3 point hitch were sort of stuck in place. I easily freed them up but I think that also shows it hasn't been used in a long time. The spots out front and back for trailer balls showed signs of having had trailer balls in them but were removed. The paint looks different were those balls would have been mounted. Once again making me think it was being used to move things around.
 
Just be aware that a "dead battery" is a pretty easy way to keep people from finding out about a dead engine. Not saying that is the case, but being skeptical is the safer way to go.

I once bought a tractor that "just needed a brake adjustment", but later found out that it had a cracked brake drum.
 
It is listed as running and was started within the last month. But I understand what you're pointing out, that someone could just let the battery go dead to hide a non running engine.
 
I run 13.6 x 28s on all 3 of my Fords. The 2000 and 3000 are 13.6 (on a 12" rim) stamped on the tire. The 3910 doesn't have the 12" rim stamped on
the tire and although they are also 13.6 x 28 they seem to be much larger...must be on a 13" rim and it must be making the difference. The other
standard tire is 12.4 x 28 in F1s for field work.

I ran these tires for as long as I can remember, new replacements when I bought the 2000 and 3000, for all sorts of farm work and they have served me
well, including putting in my 400' driveway years ago with a box and angle blade. I bought the wider tires because the 12.4s just seemed too skinny
(row crop I guess) for what I wanted in a general purpose tractor(s).
 

As uniballer said a tractor that won't start has to be assumed to have a bad motor, transmission, rear axle, and hydraulics. So you need to deduct for the repair of them.
 
Well that tractor just sold at auction for $2750...almost twice what my max bid was set at. I would just a grand to that price and buy one with a rebuilt engine and new tires. I'll keep looking and consider some of the nicer ones on Machinery Pete.

Thanks for all the help and info!
 

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