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Tire Question

B

Bern

Well-known Member
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
OK, get your chuckles over with now - I bought an old 6000 as a project tractor. I got it cheap enough, so I don't plan to lose my shirt over the deal. It's a 1966 Commander version. It's more of a unique play thing for me than anything else.

First order of business was to replace the rear rims, as calcium had rusted them out in a big way and I couldn't pump them up because the tubes had holes in them from the jagged rims.

My question is: If I don't plan to put calcium (or any other liquid) back into the tires, do I need tubes, or can I go tubeless? I called a guy at a local tire store and asked the same question, and he said that the tire should say "tube" or "tubeless" right on it. Problem is, they don't say anything. What say the experts here? They are 15.5 x 38 if it makes any difference.

By the way, the backhoe really came in handy for this job. The bucket makes it really easy to break the bead on those tires, and boy were they stuck!
a275060.jpg
 
These old style tires required tubes -I'd use them. Radial tires don't use tubes and I'd check on what new rims require so more homework needed on your end. If you don't need ballast, why bother? If you do, I recommend beet juice, Rim Guard ? ?. I've been using it in my 8N work tires since it came out and have no regrets. Is your Commander the wide front or narrow? Does the Selecto work?

Tim Daley(MI)
 
The only rear tractor tires that I've seen that can run tubeless are radials. They will say tube type or tubeless on the sidewall. I doubt you're putting radials on a Commander.
 
Oh NO Bern say it ain't so!!! You bought a SOS and a 6000 on top of that! I've always wanted a 6000 but my dad would roll over in his grave if I did! He hated every SOS! Got any pics?
 

The tech at the tire store told me a long time ago that the difference is in the outermost edge of the bead. He showed me how a tube type has a rounded edge while a tubeless type comes out to a "sharp" edge.
 
In 1994 or 5, I bought new conventional 10", 6 loop rims and new 12.4X28 tires for my 51 8N. I mounted the tires myself without tubes.

Never any issues.

Dean
 
If you will remember back (for those of us who are seniors) 670x15 days, flanges on wheels weren't built to hold air....the tube did that. Along about 1958, wheels went to 14" and tires went to tubeless....wheels were all together different. I have that problem with my farm tires. Other thing is that there are 2 different sized stem holes in wheels.

My experience, using your tubeless tire, if you can get a seal on an old rim, great. If not in goes a tube.
 
Tractor has been sitting for 20 years. Owner parked it after the tranny stopped moving. Now the engine is stuck. I have some work ahead of me....

I'm working on the tires first thing just so I can push this beast into my garage.
 
That's the problem with these tires, they don't say anything. Since they don't say "radial", I'm figuring on putting tubes in. It'll be easier in that I won't have to try and seat the bead.
 
Isn't she a beauty? Cab is coming off, and will most likely stay off if I can find some fenders. I have all of the sheet metal for it otherwise.

Tires have 99% rubber left - you can still see the numbers molded onto the bars. Guy must have parked it right after he bought the tires - tranny went out. He claims it ran great when he parked it, but it's locked up right now.
a275101.jpg
 
I can relate, TX.

I remember my Father teaching me how to repair a flat on his 1947 Pontiac with 6.00X16 tires. Jacking it up with the bumper jack, removing the wheel/tire, breaking down the bead with hand tools, patching the tube, etc. I was probably 4 or 5 but I can still remember my Dad showing me how to start one lug nut and then another on the opposite side when replacing the tire/wheel. I can remember asking why and can remember him telling me that the wheel is much more likely to stay on if the car falls off of the bumper jack if there are two lug nuts started on opposite sides of the hub.

I also remember the 1957 Chevrolet 210 4 door hardtop with 7.50X14 tubeless tires when it arrived sometime around 1959 or 1960. The 57 had a 283 with Powerglide. I can remember thinking that cars could never be better than this....

Then, in 1961, the 1958 98 Oldsmobile with 312 HP, 371 CI high compression J2 Tri-Power engine, 4 speed Hydromatic and air conditioning arrived. What could they possibly create next....

Dean, who has always been a car guy
 
I should have been more clear - the radials will say tubeless or tube type. I don't think any of my bias tractor tires are marked as to tubeless or tube type.
Like a car ir truck tire, your 6000's tires will have an "R" in the size, or be a metric size, if they're radials.
 
Now that I'm seeing this picture on a computer rather than a little phone screen... a trike! I've only seen a few Fords with a single front, and never a 6000 (though I did know it was an option).
Your tires are Armstrong Hi Traction Lug - those are bias ply.
 
The bummer about the front axle is that the guy had both the single wheel front axle as well as a wide front for it. However, it got parked with the single wheel, and sometime during the next 20 years, the wide front disappeared. I'll be looking for a front axle as well.
 


yes... all(99.99%) old bias required tubes.. newer bias can be purchased either way but will definitely say tubeless where applicable.

Good time to sand and paint inside of rims.. but they will need to dry several days or you will pinch the tube due to stickyness.

I have started using corn starch on the tubes to allow them to float better on installation or they pinch/wrinkle easier on these newer stiff tires.
 
I bought brand new rims for $400 each locally - I thought that was a good deal considering I didn't have to pay $200 plus just in freight to
get them out of the mid-west.

They came primered all the way around - I painted only the outside with gray gloss. I don't intend to put fluid of any kind back in, although
I will buy some tubes. Thanks for the input.
 
Forgot to mention that the 12.4s were bias ply and did not say tubeless.

I ran them without tubes for over 20 years without issues.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 08:20:09 07/29/18) Now, that's a nice one!

Can you find one for me?

Dean
Click to expand...

I have been toying with finding a 6000 with a bad motor to graft my 401 with turbo into.
 
There's a salvage yard in far western WI that has quite a few 6000's. LaCrosse area, I think. I don't remember where you are... would that be too far? I could try to find contact info.
 
Jealous are you? :)

I found it on a farm in Eastern Washington. It had been sitting for so long that the generator was packed with bees!

The 6000 is different in every way from any other Ford. Maybe the only thing the same between it and a 5000, for example, would be the radiator cap! That, and a few SOS parts for those who like SOS tractors. Need any SOS parts?

I bought it because I'm getting bored with working on 5000s!
a275207.jpg
 
The place I take all my tires to and I had a discussion about tube or tubless. He said all rims are either made for a tube or there made for tubless tire. He showed me the difference.
 
There's a guy on another site that has a bunch of 6000 parts. When I get home in a week I'll forward you his info. Have fun with this project!
 
You say the tires are OK, not destroyed by dry-rot, so a minor investment of two new or used rims and two new tubes would fix you right up in order to just move it around the shop. Use new tubes like I said. My local Firestone AG/Tractor Tire Dealer has many sets of old tires. I found a pair of original 9 x 32 FORD 45? closed bar centers he had but not for sale.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
I don't know about any lip changes on TT to tubeless. Only difference I know is the extra layer of rubber on the inside to ensure they hold air.
 
I wasn't sure if it was '57 or '58. I have a 1/25 scale model I made of a decked out '57 Chevy Convertible with Continental Kit and all the trimmings. Painted it Turquoise with interior to match. Was my favorite color for them at the time. Beautiful how the interiors matched the exterior and then some quacko made Detroit make everything so it didn't reflect sunlight. Yawn! It has 670x15s is why I missed the year.

On the '57 210, I worked at a filling station (50 cents an hour), Humble (now EXXON-Mobile) after school. Lots of industry along the Houston Ship Channel and the companys would drop off their cars for servicing and pick them up when they got around to it.

There was a 4 door sedan with a 327 (may have been fuel injected, don't remember) stick shift that appeared frequently and I could not move that car without a little screeching of the tires. The boss liked to stand in the door leaning up against one post, hand over his head on the other one. More than once he shook his finger at me for doing that but I tried not to. Just too hot a combination.

On the 283 Power Glide, was stationed at Altus OK. as my first duty assignment. Had a guy with mom and pop's 58 283 V8, 2 barrel carb, nothing fancy, PG tranny. Had a guy from California with the 59 (huge horizontal teardrop lights you'll remember) Biscayne 2 door with the 348 with 3 duces and 4 on the floor. Always bragging how hot his car was.

So one night out on a desolate road (lots there then), all the guys were around having a good time. They did a show down and the little plain vanilla sedan smoked him. We figured 2 things did him in: 283 being short stroke wound up fast and Power Glide only shifted once and didn't squeal the tires on take off like the hot dog car did. He never lived it down.
 

In the early 90's when I delivered loads on the east coast I'd backhaul Ford and Massey tractors out of the Dundalk Marine Terminal in Baltimore, Md.
Delivered them to dealers in Oh, In and Ky.
Most of those tractors had bias tires that were tubeless, never paid attention weather they said tubeless on the sides or not

Since those tires are 15+ years old it would probably be difficult to get the beads to seal, it'll cost more but I'd put some good radial tubes in them.
 
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