Trying to get a head off a 172 engine powering a Fork Lift

davefullmer

New User
Hi guys,

And gals. I have a Fork Lift that I use to put logs up on my band saw. This fork lift was built in 1972 by a Nasa, a company in Alabama and they used the 172 engines that were used in the 800 series Ford tractors. I was told the engines were all new engines bought from Ford. It is also my understanding that Ford quit using the 172 engine in 1966.

Anyway, My son and I were using the fork lift to move some planed lumber and near the end of the day, the engine started started a bad miss. It never smoked and had always started and run well for me so I bought new plugs, points, condensor and a coil and replaced them. Nothing seemed to help and after a few days of not running, I could not even start the engine.

We did a compression check and found cylinders 1 and 4 at 120 psi and 2 and 3 at 30 psi. After thinking carefully about how fast it it developed the missing situation and that it never smoked, we fell the chances are good that the head gasket has blown or worse, we might have a crack in the head. So we are in the process of removing the head for inspection. Our problem is the Oil tube. We can't seem to pull it up.

The I T&T manual shows a gromet on the oil tube below the side panel on the engine but does not show how the tube is fastened.

I am hoping that one of you might have some experience on how to remove the oil tube so we can inspect the head gasket. If the head gasket shows an obvious path of of a break between the 2 and 3 cylinders, the plan is to buy a valve grind gasket set and put it back together. Other wise, we will have to have the head checked and rebuilt but if we do that, we should probably do a complete rebuild. Money is tight and the sawmill is a part-time occupation so we are trying to get it running with out spending a lot.

Anything anyone can tell us will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

P.S. You can see a picture of the old forklift on my website where I show changing the rubber tired wheels to steel wheels on my '37 Allis Chalmers WC
http://davefullmer.biz/1937AllisChalmers.html
 
You might not have a useable pipe when you get it out. They have been known to have become "permanently" attached. a vice grip under the bend with leverage over the valve train and twist and pull. Good luck. These hard ones are the exception and not the rule.
 
The oil tube holdown clip is under one of the rocker arm bolts. You have to move the clip to the bend in the tube and turn it 45* to remove the clip. The tube is usually pretty tight at the bottom. You might have to pry against the top of it but dont bend the tube. You could bend a piece of metal u-shaped to go in the crook at the top to keep the pressure off a small place in the tube. I would try wiggling it around first, I hand pulled the last one I did. You can use Hylomar sealant on the gasket but dont get it on the metal ring. It dries fast and use it sparingly, Rolls Royce developed it.
 
It is also my understanding that Ford quit using the 172 engine in 1966.

Ford actually stopped using the 172 ci engines in tractors in 1965, but they continued to make them for another 20 years or so for use in powered implements and to sell to third parties for for use in things like your forklift, wood chippers and generator units.
 
Thanks guys for your ideas.

I talked with a local mechanic in a neighboring city about 20 miles away who works on all kinds of tractors and remembered working on the 172 engine sometime in the past. He told me that most likely the grommet hard hardened up and needed to be softened by some blaster spray. My biggest question about how it is connected inside the engine has been answered by both you fellows and this mechanic. The only connection is the grommet and in new condition should be able to pull straight up .

Regarding the clip that holds it it place, that applies to the later engines ( mine did not have it) and the ITT manual recommends it being added when the older engines are opened up.

I am going to spray the dickens on the tube so it can soften up the grommet and since I know that it is supposed to come up, I will try some prying on it down at the side panel. Of course I ruined the cork gasket that sealed the side panel, but I am sure a new gasket is available or else I can just buy some sheet cork and make one.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised the grommet might be hard as a rock after being in it for 46 years most likely.
 
Success! I clamped a vicegrip on the tube just under the first bend at the top and tapped it a couple of times with a hammer and the tube and grommet came loose.

Removed the head and sure enough, the gasket had a half inch wide path missing between cylinders 2 and 3. That seems obvious to me why we could only get 30 psi on the compression gauge for those 2 cylinders.
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:54 07/13/18) Success! I clamped a vicegrip on the tube just under the first bend at the top and tapped it a couple of times with a hammer and the tube and grommet came loose.

Removed the head and sure enough, the gasket had a half inch wide path missing between cylinders 2 and 3. That seems obvious to me why we could only get 30 psi on the compression gauge for those 2 cylinders.

Dave, How hard was the grommet? The first one that I ever did pulled right out. The next one pulled harder but it still came right out.
 
(quoted from post at 18:53:38 07/13/18)
(quoted from post at 18:02:54 07/13/18) Success! I clamped a vicegrip on the tube just under the first bend at the top and tapped it a couple of times with a hammer and the tube and grommet came loose.

Removed the head and sure enough, the gasket had a half inch wide path missing between cylinders 2 and 3. That seems obvious to me why we could only get 30 psi on the compression gauge for those 2 cylinders.

Dave, How hard was the grommet? The first one that I ever did pulled right out. The next one pulled harder but it still came right out.

The grommet was pretty hard and was right in position on the tube. Unless it is included in the gasket set I ordered, I plan on reusing it.
 

I would still have the head manafluxed and checked for warpage... assuming all else is good.

A FELPRO 'HS' head set should also have the gasket you need for the side cover.
 

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