Switching hydraulics on a Ford 4000 w/a loader

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
So, my wife scored a Ford 4000 diesel with a loader for a coincidental price of 4000 dollars at the auction a few weeks ago.

The more I use it, the more I like it. It's blue, but it seems (judging from the front axle and the Category 2 Three point hitch) to be an "industrial" build...but I digress...

Anyway, I haven't used it on the haybine, yet; because it doesn't have rear remotes. But, it has a remote spooler valve mounted on the deck in front of the seat.

It looks like the original Ford spooler. It has one full remote, routed to the tilt ram on the loader. It also has one half remote, routed to the lift/lower on the loader.

So, I'm thinking, I should be able to somehow switch the full remote that goes to the loader's tilt ram to operate a remote on the back of the tractor.

*********** Here is what I'm wondering about ***********

Then I could use the tractor on the haybine. I can still lift the bucket to keep it off the ground, but the tilt will be uncontrolled. No big deal, right?

My haybine has a single hose ram. It only lifts; then it goes down by its own weight. This shouldn't be a problem either, correct?

What I'm mostly on the fence about is how to do the actual connection.

Option 1:

I could have a couple of stubby lines made that screw into the remote ports on the spooler...they could have female quick couplers on the other end. I would have to unscrew the loader hoses and cap them; before screwing in my rear remote stubs.

Probably least expensive...but involves wrenches and such at every changeover.


Option 2:

I do the same stubby lines with female quick couplers for my rear remote.

Then I have a couple of stubby lines made for my loader tilt that screw onto the existing ends that now go into the spooler...and have a male quick coupler on the other end.

In this case, my rear remote lines are always installed; I then switch between loader and rear remote by plugging or unplugging my loader hoses into these quick couplers.


Option 3: I install a valve or valves on the two lines to the loader tilt and connect the new rear remote stub hoses to these valves.

I switch between loader and implement by switching the valve.


Any opinions, critiques? Gotchas? Etc?
 
Is this the animal that I'm looking for (or something like it), if I want to switch two both lines???

https://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-GRESEN-8-1-2-x-3-5-16-x-8-1-2-6-Way-38D926?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Products_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLARECS&cm_vc=IDPPLARECS
 
This appears to be a single line version?

https://www.grainger.com/product/38D932?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!194753081719!!!g!309888733889!&ef_id=VNTi6wAAATXSy0bN:20180628143152:s
 

Can you post a photo of the valve that's on the tractor.

What would be ideal is to get a HV5902 adapter to go under the remote and mount a separate loader valve on the loaders frame plumbed to the adapter.
This would allow you to use any of them without blocking off one or the other.

Can't open the link to Grainger
 
And actually, after studying a whole bunch of images on the interwebz of different 4000's; my front axle isn't "industrial"...it's just the heavier variant of the front axle (well...the axle beam, not the actual spindle that the tires ride on) that appears to be common on later builds of 4000's.

It's the upside down U-channel version, as opposed to the version that looks very similar to a 8N front end, found on earlier 4000's.

Mine also has true live PTO, no clutch needed to engage, disengage... I haven't figured out the year yet; but it must be a later model.
 

I looked up the adapter.

I'm 99% sure that it would mount under the spooler that's currently on there.

That would be idea, wouldn't it?

I'm glad that I asked...
 

IMO, I would avoid any option that requires wrenches at changeover. Too much chance of introducing dirt/crud into the system, plus the hassle. QDs are the way to go.

Take a look at my post further down:"TC45 - Brush grapple - 3rd remote". I know the 4000 is an older tractor but I just broke into the loader circuit and installed a valve for my grapple. It works great. I used QDs on the new remote valve ports just like the FEL does in case I need to remove the loader frame someday.

What I did sounds like your Option 3.

Option 2 is probably the easiest/cheapest as long as you don't mind losing your loader when running your haybine. QD's can also be finicky and require some effort to switch. Mine tend to stick sometimes and it takes some force to hook/unhook a sticky one. The more you use them and keep them clean, the better they work.

I buy my hydraulic stuff at www.discounthydraulichose.com. There are others out there but I like their website for building hoses, wide range of fittings in stock and quick delivery. I ordered 4 made- to-order-hose assemblies and some fittings on Tuesday, paid regular ground delivery and they were delivered this AM (Pennsylvania to Michigan). As an example, one of the hoses I needed (6ft R17, 1/4") was under $30 from them, local auto store wanted $65, New Holland dealer wanted $52. Plus, the local guys don't always have the fittings in stock.
 
(quoted from post at 11:05:42 06/28/18) And actually, after studying a whole bunch of images on the interwebz of different 4000's; my front axle isn't "industrial"...it's just the heavier variant of the front axle (well...the axle beam, not the actual spindle that the tires ride on) that appears to be common on later builds of 4000's.

It's the upside down U-channel version, as opposed to the version that looks very similar to a 8N front end, found on earlier 4000's.

Mine also has true live PTO, no clutch needed to engage, disengage... I haven't figured out the year yet; but it must be a later model.

The 4000's with the upside down U front axle are the later series that have a 3 cylinder engine. The earlier ones with the radius rod front axles like the 8N's have a 4 cylinder engine and are completely different tractors even though the share the same name. The only parts they share in common are the front wheels and the blocking plate on the hydraulic top cover where your remote valve currently is, so they can both use the same remote valves and adapter plates.
 

Yes indeed, heavy U channel front axle...three cylinder diesel...live PTO.

I haven't decoded the serial number yet, but it must be a later model.

Whatever year it is, I'm liking this machine a lot. Our 3000 gas has been a trusty workhorse for the past couple of years, but the 4000 has just enough more oooomph and working weight to make tasks that strain the 3000 not quite so difficult.

Right now, the 3000 is the only machine equipped to run the haybine; but I would really like to switch over to the 4000 to give it a break. The haybine is a lot of strain on the 3000.
 

There are a few different versions of the 65/later 3 cylinder 4000's, sounds like your is the standard all purpose model.
This is my 69 4000 AP
Notice the flat grill and smooth hood sides
These where used on later 68/75 models

18989.jpg


This is my 72 4000SU
Notice it looks very much like a 3000

18990.jpg


65/mid 68 models have a rounded lower grill and louvered hood like the ones on my 67 5000



18991.jpg


Clean off the flat area behind the starter and look for 3 rolls of numbers stamped into the housing.
Post them so we can help id what you have and when it was built.

18992.jpg
 
Mine looks like your top photo.

My serial number spot was pretty rusty. I put some penetrating oil on it and wire brushed it with a copper brush about a week ago.

When I get a break in haying, I'll have to go out and do it one more time and wipe it with a rag to see if I can decipher numbers and letters a little better.

Last time I did it, I wasn't sure about some of the characters.
 
OK, so, I cleaned up my Serial plate as best I could this morning.

These are the numbers that I have:

D1014C

9F04B

*C241845*

And, here are a couple of pictures of the existing hydraulic spooler.

19040.jpg
19041.jpg
 
The block of wood under the seat was there when I bought it. I kind of like the high seat position...haven't figured out how to get rid of it yet...
 
D1014C is an ag chassis 4000 with a diesel engine, independent PTO and an 8 speed transmission.

Yes, an HV5907 hydraulic adapter plate will work under the remote valve that is currently installed in your pictures and will allow you to add a control valve at the loader and then the remotes will be freed up and the loader, 3 point lift and remotes can all be operated independently without having to do any switching of hoses or using a diverter valve.
 
I sure wish this site would fix things so you could edit your posts. That should have been HV5902, not HV5907.
 

So... if you look at the left side of that existing spooler, it's setup as half of a hydraulic channel; since my loader has one-way cylinders for lift (no down-pressure)

But, the spooler looks like it has a port plugged. I'm thinking that, if I install the adapter and run the loader from that, the spooler would actually allow two full remotes???

Just off the top of my head, I'm tallying up how much this will cost...

100 bucks for the adapter plate
70 bucks for hoses and fittings per remote (x 2)
100 bucks for some new hydraulic lines from the adapter plate to the bucket controls
200 -300 bucks for the bucket controls

Somewhere around....500-600 bucks, it seems
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:34 06/29/18) OK, so, I cleaned up my Serial plate as best I could this morning.

These are the numbers that I have:

D1014C

9F04B

*C241845*

And, here are a couple of pictures of the existing hydraulic spooler.

19041.jpg

D1014C = 4000 all purpose, diesel, ind pto, 8x2 trans
9F04B production date = built Feb 04, 1969 during day shift
C241845 is correct serial number for a tractor built in 1969

Same tractor as I have, my fenders had rusted out so I replaced them with ones from a 4600.

I have one of those dual remote valves, the blue plug is where the second line connects to make it a full double action valve on that side, yes the HV5902 adapter will fit under that valve.

Those seats do seat low but I'm guessing the weight adjuster knob on the back is frozen, that's what sets the amount of bounce it has for your weight as well as increasing the height position.
I'm 6'1" but at the height you presently have that one at it would get uncomfortable for me after a while.

You can take the hyd lines you have, get them cut to the length you'll need and have new needs put on, if the lines are in good condition.
The remote couplers are a bit pricey, don't think you get both sets for $70.
To cut cost since you presently only need one remote you could plug the front fitting on the one side and have a single remote for now. Add the lines and couplers later if you need them.
 

All I know is, the more I use this tractor, the more I like it.

It just feels like much more than the 50-something PTO horsepower that it's rated for, and it does a lot of work on a couple of five gallon jugs of diesel.

It needs some TLC, but I can't really find any faults with it yet.
 
But, the spooler looks like it has a port plugged. I'm thinking that, if I install the adapter and run the loader from that, the spooler would actually allow two full remotes???

Yes, but besides adding the second hose I believe there's a screw that you need to turn on the valve body to change that spool from single acting to double acting mode.
 
(quoted from post at 09:53:48 06/28/18)
There are a few different versions of the 65/later 3 cylinder 4000's, sounds like your is the standard all purpose model.
This is my 69 4000 AP
Notice the flat grill and smooth hood sides
These where used on later 68/75 models

18989.jpg


This is my 72 4000SU
Notice it looks very much like a 3000

18990.jpg


65/mid 68 models have a rounded lower grill and louvered hood like the ones on my 67 5000



18991.jpg


Clean off the flat area behind the starter and look for 3 rolls of numbers stamped into the housing.
Post them so we can help id what you have and when it was built.

18992.jpg

Really nice model serial number stamping Destroked :D
 

You did such a nice job I just had to copy it.
Best photo of the -000 series numbers I've seen yet.

Those are my tractors, not reprints of someone else's.
 
(quoted from post at 04:02:17 06/30/18)
But, the spooler looks like it has a port plugged. I'm thinking that, if I install the adapter and run the loader from that, the spooler would actually allow two full remotes???

Yes, but besides adding the second hose I believe there's a screw that you need to turn on the valve body to change that spool from single acting to double acting mode.

I will look for that.
 
You pretty much just need to install another valve or set of valves to control either the loader or the rear hydraulics.

You cant disconnect the loader hoses because then you wont be able to lift it. And disconnecting with it already lifted will spray hydraulic oil all over the place, and the loader will fall because the valve is what holds the pressure to hold it up.

I just installed a HV5902 plate to separate the loader, 3pt, and rear hydraulics on one of our tractors. You could do that and install another valve to run your rear hydraulics while leaving the existing connections in place for the loader.

You could also use HV4902 plate as there are fewer ports, if you don't want/ need the option for a power beyond circuit.

There would still have to be a separate open center valve for either the loader control, or the rear hydraulic control if you use either of the adapter plates.


I would install a separate loader control valve(s) because it makes using the loader so much easier to have that mounted up near the steering wheel where you can access it.

What kind of loader is on the tractor? Any model number or ID tag on it?
 
Here's a link to the thread I made explaining the issue I had with the setup on our tractor, and the details on the install of the HV5902 adapter plate.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=8756676#8756676
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top