Back to my starter cranking issue

TNford · Jun 15, 2018

So I took all the nuts and washers off the stud going into the
starter last night to see what was there. All is good except that
instead of a Bakelite sleeve around the stud as is goes thru
starter housing, there is a rubber sleeve to insulate the stud
from the housing. Being rubber there is no shoulder. I have
looked around on the internet a little, and I can get a rebuild
kit for the starter that has the correct washers etc for $20.
Anyone know where I can just get the Bakelite sleeve by
itself?

riveroadrat · Jun 15, 2018

Google bakelite sleeve.

TNford · Jun 15, 2018

I was talking with a friend who is fairly knowledgeable, and he doesn?t think that my slow cranking is being caused by the stud getting hot. He agrees that it shouldn?t get hot and that it is likely being caused by the stud grounding out, but the slow cranking is because the windings in the starter are bad not because of the amp loss to the stud...what say you all?

JMOR · Jun 15, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:21:12 06/15/18) I was talking with a friend who is fairly knowledgeable, and he doesn?t think that my slow cranking is being caused by the stud getting hot. He agrees that it shouldn?t get hot and that it is likely being caused by the stud grounding out, but the slow cranking is because the windings in the starter are bad not because of the amp loss to the stud...what say you all?

don't personally know (I'm not there) that the stud is shorting to barrel or not, but IF it is then current would be taken away from the fields/armature. If not shorting to barrel, then either a bad connection(resistance) or bad starter motor(excess current) is making the heat.

TNford · Jun 15, 2018

Also, the starter bench tests fine, only when under load does that stud get hot.

Indiana Ken · Jun 15, 2018

(quoted from post at 07:37:13 06/15/18) Also, the starter bench tests fine, only when under load does that stud get hot.

The stud can not be expected to get hot during bench testing because the starter motor does not pull a large amount of current when not loaded. If your bench test includes a loaded test then the stud should get hot if there is resistance present.

When the stud is getting hot, current is consumed heating the stud and not used to drive the starter. Therefore, the starter can be expected to slow down.

IanC · Jun 15, 2018

There is an after market company that is making high power gear reduction replacement starters for the 5" Lucas. Check with your local starter shop. I think the importer was Arrowhead out of Minnesota. The gear reduction units are more horsepower and spin the engine faster.

Bern · Jun 15, 2018

Tell your "knowledgeable" friend to stick to clutches and brakes. I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Any electrical part that is not a load that gets hot has excessive resistance in it. Excessive resistance results in lower current flow = slow cranking.

The only other way that a component such as a stud like that could get hot would be if there was a direct short going through it. However, if the stud was really grounding out, your motor wouldn't be working at all. All of the current would be going straight to the short.

TNford · Jun 15, 2018

BTW, I think you?re correct! To my little pee brain it only makes sense that I?d lose cranking.

showcrop · Jun 15, 2018

Whether your friend is right or wrong you STILL need to correct that insulation problem. Always correct known problems before hunting for others.

sotxbill · Jun 15, 2018

if diesel, replace whole solenoid. Seen them for around $35 on ebay.

Back to my starter cranking issue

TNford

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riveroadrat

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TNford

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JMOR

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TNford

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Indiana Ken

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IanC

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Bern

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TNford

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showcrop

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sotxbill

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