Ford 600 - Few basic Questions

BrittH

Member
I have had my Ford 1964 650 Tractor for 8 months now. I have completed the Hydraulic lift rebuild with the help of the good folks on this forum. Again I am a newbie when it comes to
mechanics so bear with me on the basic questions below. In my short time owning this old beauty, I have learned if its still working but maybe not 100%, hold off on the repair, as I have
broken so many other things attempting to fix the task at hand. However, its been a lot fo fun. Plan on posting pics once completed with everything. But I have got to use it to mow and
box blade the driveway!!!

1. Temp Gauge - does it have to have power to it to work? I installed he new gauge and cable into the block of engine (wish I would have drained coolant first hahaha) and still not
working.

2. Exhaust tail pipe bracket needed? I purchased http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-600_Exhaust-Pipe-Horizontal_R1613.html , and have the mounts to attach to muffler, but not
sure what and where to attach underneath the tractor.

3. Headlights - Well the were working but when I ungraded the gauges, the cooper oil pressure line touched the power wire to the on/off switch and sparked like crazy! SO not lights not
working. Not sure where to start.


PS- Gauges were a Pain In the A$$ getting in and the cables attached to the engine... not sure they were worth the trouble.... main one I care about the temp gauge and is not working
 

first let's figure out what tractor you have. Perhaps it's a typo, but if not there were no 1964 600s. they were built from '55 through '57.

1. If it's an OEM temperature gauge there is nothing connected to it electrically.

2. Obtain service manual for photos. I don't have any underslung exhaust systems to look at anymore.

3. find the fuse that you blew up under the dash.
 
NCKS - Thank you and you are correct it s a 1954 600 series...

1. That was what I thought and its not OEM its from Ebay gauge custer and probably junk why its not working.
2. Ill come back to this as I don't see anything in the ford book/service manual or even on the site to where to support the tail pipe underneath the tractor. See the URL on what I
purchased.
3. I don't think it had a fuse is the problem.... So something blew up hahaha..... Guess I will just start at the switch and follow it down.
Untitled URL Link
 
3. I don't think it had a fuse is the problem.... So something blew up hahaha

Simply causing a temporary short in the power wire to the light switch shouldn't blow anything up as there's nothing in that circuit to blow up. So there probably is an in-line fuse that you just haven't found yet.
 
(quoted from post at 15:16:04 06/15/18) 3. I don't think it had a fuse is the problem.... So something blew up hahaha..... Guess I will just start at the switch and follow it down.

3. I missed a comma. What I meant to say was find the fuse you blew, up under the dash somewhere. If it doesn't have one you burned a wire, a connection or something else in the lighting circuit.

2. Horizontal Exhaust

If memory serves the first hanger is attached to a bell housing to engine bolt. The second is attached to a lower axle housing to center housing cap screw.
 
since its not working you need to drain your level down below the head and remove the thermocouple and take a match or lighter and heat the end of the bulb. that will tell you if its working or not course I am assuming you did fill the radiator back up as if the level is to low there will not be a flow of liquid that's needed for a proper reading. I think all gauges are made over seas now at least that's what I told here awhile back. if you do the match trick and see the needle moving up take the fire away as you don't want to over heat it. good luck
 



Thats a great idea!! Thanks for that little trick. When originally inserting bulb, I took the other one out without draining, all while having the dang hydraulic pump off. It was a mess, and ended up draining my hydraulic fluid incase the coolant got in the lines. Im learning all the tricks the hard way. I did fill the radiator with water not coolant.... I need to do that, so I don't forget before winter time.
 
Temp gauge never moved much on my Ford 960. I took a bowl of really hot water down to the tractor and stuck the bulb end in, sure enough it worked. So next thing was see if there was a thermostat. There was not. I put one in and gauge works! Got a thermostat in yours?
 
Grandpa thats great question..... one I will have to get the answer to. When I was mowing last week, i felt heat on me but think thats more because the exhaust was blowing directly on me... thus me trying to run the tail pipe out the back :) . Thank you for the suggestion and next step to look at. Is it bad not running a thermostat?
 
Supposed to not be good. Mine ran at least 2 years without one. Just be careful with the metal thermostat housing,I busted mine putting it back on. Lucky I'm near a salvage yard. If you need em I will send a couple pictures of the exhaust system on both of our fords.
 
Waters not good for the cooling systems. It will rust up your engine cooling passages and then you'll get hot spots because of piled up rust and it'll rust out your freeze plugs. Distilled water or rain water, or does rain have acid in it now?
 
The aftermarket gauge clusters use a different sender. I replaced the cluster and sender on my 4000 and it did not move when warmed up. Changed out sender and now it reads hot. Not sure what sender is supposed to be in it now.
 

This is on a 53, yours should be the same.
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Britt, when you remove the bulb to put some heat on it, do not lower the coolant level first. Put a pan under it to catch the coolant. At least twice I have had so much rust at the back of the head where the bulb inserts that there was no coolant getting to the bulb.
 

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