Injector pump blues

Well I sent my pump drive shaft, and governor plate off to Dieseltech. I received them back Thursday. He said that I had the old shaft, and replaced it with the 10259 shaft, which is the it suppose to have. He also said that it had a slight twist to it. He also said the governor plate timing mark was suppose to be at 140, and mine was at 138. He replaced it with a good used one.

I reassembled the pump once again. When I went to put it on the engine, the drive shaft was 180 from the old one. I then checked to be sure I had the engine sitting on #1 compression stroke, with the timing make at 23 degrees. I turned the engine over another couple of times to be sure. It was at #1 TDC, and at 23 degrees. The cam gear is with the large side of the gear towards the engine. But with the timing marks on the pump right, the tang on the drive shaft is opposite. I put the pump drive shaft in backwards (dots not matching) and put it on the engine. it went on the bolts, but the timing mark is still off to the right of the window, to far to turn the pump to match. Wonder what would be different running the shaft 180 ?

I E-mailed Richard again, I asked if the rotor shaft might be different also, because of the shaft 180 off now. Maybe the dot to match them up is on the opposite side. (180) He is at a loss without seeing the complete pump. He also said that I maybe should try one of his core pumps, and see how it goes if the timing marks line up then. If not, I would have to say, it would have to be something with the cam setup.

I guess, I'm going to have to see about barrowing a pump from Richard.

I will get this right yet!!!

Pat

Still baffled, huh? Are you sure you are on the compression stroke? Your intake valve should be closing as you turn #1 piston up to TDC on the compression stroke. 180 out would be camshaft pump gear out of time, I think. All you should have to do is twist the pump drive gear out and give it a 180 turn and it should drop right back in the hole. Perseverance my friend. I know you want to hear that engine play you a tune.

I'm positive that it's on the right stroke. I have built more Ford, Chevy and Dodge engines then I can remember. I use to street race from late 60's -2008, drag race back in the late 70's, and I have been building them since. I have built a chevy 327 race engine sitting on a stand now, waiting to go into my street full fender'd '27 T coupe right now. It will be able to turn 7-8000 rpm's. This is my first diesel engine I really worked on. I had a 80's Old's that I replaced the broken injector pump on, in 2000, which I had no problem doing. I have never had this much problem figuring a engine out! It really irck's me!!! But, no one else can find the problem either, so I can't blame it on getting old, I'm not that old yet! I'm not to that dirt age yet. lol

I will not give up. But I really need my tractor to mow my backyard. It's to much for my 42" Craftsman rider, and my 48" John Deere rider can't do it hardly at all. That's why I bought this tractor for. Well one of the reason's.

Thanks, Pat

Riveroadrat, I can't send you a e-mail, or PM. could you send me a e-mail, with a way to contact you.

My e-mail is: [email protected]

Thanks, Pat

I had a Guy (lives 3 miles down the road from me) come over that use to work at a Ford tractor dealership as a mechanic for years. He is retired but still works on them, and has a few. He came over today to look at mine, to see if he could help me with it.

First thing he said was , the pump driveshaft was to parallel to the block. He said the problem was not in the pump! I asked what could be wrong. We started to check every thing out. He told me, "I hate to say it, but I really need to pull the engine, and check the cam gear key, the crank gear key, and the crank for it being cracked, but not broken all the way. But it has to be something twisted slightly. I need to pull the engine because I have to, to get the cam gear back on. He said that I can try to heat the gear, and then push it on, but I can't hit it, if it doesn't go all the way back on. Plus it's sitting ready to pull already, and it would make things easier to check.

He has a buddy that has a 172 diesel, with a bad main, that I can get for parts, if I need them. For the price of scrap. He told me I should really put the balancer Assembly back on, since I didn't see it when the pan was off. He said that he see where without it, the cranks break, usually when it has a light load on the engine, but he has see where they have never had one break without it. So it's my call, but he'd install it, if it was his.

So In a few days (I have a few things to finish up, before I can get time to pull it.

Pat

It's been awhile since I have been able to work on my tractor. I had put it up on blocks, so that I could remove parts as I got time to. I took the steering sector off a bit ago, so that I could put new seals in it.

I had time the other day, so I removed the complete front end off it. Piece by piece, so that I can clean, grease, & paint it. I was amazed that the pivot tube just unscrewed. I found out that it needs a new bushing, & tube. It was almost worn completely gone, and has a grove on the tube.

Today I was able to get time to pull the engine off. I removed what I'm calling the clutch & pressure plate. It is a SOS. It looks like it had a new disc put in. The whole engine looks like it was gone through. The insides are real clean. The guy that had owned it died, and it was sitting for 15 years.

I didn't have the right bolts to put it on my engine stand. So I couldn't put it on my stand. Before I do, I need to get the cover off over the hyd pump gear. Any idea's as to remove it. It's a tight fit all the way around. I tried lightly to pry it through a screw hole, but no go. I didn't push the matter today. But tomorrow I need to get it onto my stand. I already picked up the right bolts for it.

Anything I should do, since I have the engine off the tranny?

Thanks, Pat

The picture of the pressure plate (?) didn't show. And gave two pictures of the clutch instead.

Thanks, Pat

Today I pulled the engine cam out. Everything looks great. I pulled the crank gear, to check if the gear had turned on the key at all. It looked good. I tried to pull the cam gear off, no go. I used heat on the gear, and iced the cam. It won't budge at all.

After I pulled the back pump gear cover off. I see that there is a good size grove worn in to the cover from the gear bolts. Which I believe that the front gear is not on all the way. There is a gap between the gear & the cam retainer plate.

The cam say's "Diesel" & Ford on it. Along with 18-J, 310377, C18. I looked up the numbers on it "310377" and on every add I found for it, it say's "Not for diesel engine" I'm confused!

Thanks, Pat