Texasmark1

Well-known Member
I noticed that the thermostat for 1965 and up is 188 opening according to supplying sources. Full open is 192 as I recall. That's up some 20 degrees from the earlier spec, pre-65, as I recall. Some run with a 7# cap and others with a 13. I'd assume part of it is cleaning up the environment....EPA thing.

Comments on what and why (your experiences) would be appreciated. Current condition appears to be no stat or if so, a mighty efficient diesel in my newly acquired 3910. Installed a new inst. panel so it's not a meter problem.....could be a sensor problem if there is a problem with the tractor and it does in fact have a 188. First time I get it out and work it I'll take along my non-contact Infrared thermometer and take some points. I don't want this kind of performance this winter.

Thanks
 
There is some variation in the specifications for diesel operating temperatures.

The cylinder wall temperature is critical in gas and diesel engines. If the temperature is below 180 degrees F. combustion gases (sulfur products) precipitate on the cylinder walls and cause corrosion. That is why air-cooled diesels show less wall wear compared to water cooled Diesels with the same hours. The cylinder wall temp of an air-cooled diesel reaches 180 degrees F. about 2-3 times quicker than that of a water cooled diesel.

I think the 188 degrees F. thermostat may help reach optimum temperature quicker and may also help in the combustion process. I don't know why earlier specs called for lower temp thermostats.
 
I prefer to run diesels hotter than cooler, to a point. I also like to cut some slack to older radiators. So, I prefer 188 degree stats and 7 lb caps. Keep everything clean and they?ll run fine.
 
I've been running around with resistance values of sending units. Have you put a candy thermometer in the neck or used an IR gun on the block? Said you put a new cluster in, I did too. Then my original sending unit started acting up.
 
Great replies and thanks for your inputs.....quality time you spent.

I like to get them up to temp and keep them there....not in the red, but where they belong...a tad below redline.

The only reason I wouldn't want the hotter stat. would be an inherent "age related" problem whereby the cooling system is not what it used to be and for a heavy load (not overloaded, just a good workout) wouldn't be able to handle it, like a JD 4230C I had with a clogged radiator. In the summer when you were baling hay and really needed the AC, the needle would climb. Took the radiator to a shop to get it rotted out (the only guy around here) and the owner said he didn't do it any longer...EPA shut him down.....he couldn't afford what it would take to comply.......not knocking the restriction on the part of the EPA here, just the loss of the asset. I remember pictures of what used to go into our rivers from our industries.

For winter operation would surely prefer the 188 and I'm not a guy that changes stats with the season like we did with flat head Ford V8s when I was growing up.

The OEM Ford manual, that came with the tractor, says 188 and 10 psig cap. Didn't see any aftermarket 10's, as I said, 7s and 13s. I don't want to over stress the radiator either, having read a lot of gripes about after market parts available, and why damage the one you have when you don't have to.

So I'll go with the 188-7 combo and see how she goes.
 
Hotter helps all the way around, better fuel economy, better emissions and less wear do to less unburned carbon washing down the cylinder walls.
 

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