Ford 2000 will not keep running

First thing I did was to replace points, condenser, coil. Plugs and wires, distributor cap & button are about one year old. Even had tractor mechanic work on it. It ran, but when it stopped, nothing. I replaced condenser and it ran well. After a day or so it is doing the same thing again. Solutions???

Mcrogers,
Welcome to the Ford board.
First, always mention whether you have a
1962-65 4 cylinder 2000 or a 1965-75 3
cylinder 2000.
That said, have you checked your fuel flow?
It may not be spark but fuel.

When it stops running and won't start did it lose spark?

(quoted from post at 12:18:53 05/23/18) When it stops running and won't start did it lose spark?

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No, it still had good spark.

Could you elaborate on "when it stopped, nothing"?

(quoted from post at 14:46:24 05/23/18)

(quoted from post at 12:18:53 05/23/18) When it stops running and won't start did it lose spark?

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No, it still had good spark.

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Well if it runs, dies and still has spark I'm betting on lack of fuel.

(quoted from post at 20:32:35 05/23/18)

(quoted from post at 14:46:24 05/23/18)

(quoted from post at 12:18:53 05/23/18) When it stops running and won't start did it lose spark?

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No, it still had good spark.

Click to expand...

Well if it runs, dies and still has spark I'm betting on lack of fuel.

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That will be next order of business. Thanks to all that replied.

Ford 2000; 3 cyl. gas; 4/1 trans.....I had trouble getting my tractor to crank and run for more than a few seconds and finally, on advice of a tractor mechanic, replaced the cut off valve in the bottom of the gas tank. The filter was laying in the bottom of the tank and the valve was full of debris which reduced the gas flow to a trickle. With the new valve/filter in place, it cranks like a champ every time now. Good luck with yours.

First thing I did was to replace points, condenser, coil.

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...

When it stops running and won't start did it lose spark?

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...

No, it still had good spark.

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Did it have good spark when the problem first started, before you replaced the points, condenser and coil?

If you search the archives on this site you'll find dozens of other threads similar to yours. You have to troubleshoot the problem before you start throwing parts at it. First and easiest test is to check for a good white/blue colored spark that will jump at least a 1/4" gap to ground. After you know you have good spark, and that it is timed close to being right, then you look at the fuel delivery.

If it's an earlier 4 cylinder 2000 it should have a gravity fed fuel system and if the carb has a drain on the bottom you can remove that and let it drain into a bucket. It should drain fast enough to fill a pint in about 30 seconds. If it doesn't have a drain on the carb then disconnect the fuel line at the sediment bowl and do the same test, that will at lest let you know if it's getting that far but still won't guarantee something's not restricting fuel flow after that, like a clogged filter in the sediment bowl itself or a sticking float valve in the carb.

A 3 cylinder 2000 has a mechanical fuel pump up on the front of the engine and there are 3 or 4 different fuel filters , one on top of the shutoff valve up inside the tank, one inside the top of the fuel pump, and the third one is inside the sediment bowl. The fourth one, if it is there is in the fitting where the line from the sediment bowl goes into the carb.