Front wheel width position

BobReeves

Member
The front wheels on my 3600 are set pretty wide, one position wider than my 3000, lined up with the outside of rear wheels verses inside of rear wheels. When turning the 3600 digs in quite a bit more than the 3000 and if you are not careful the front wheels will make a pretty good rut, much worse than the 3000 and the 3000 has a loader on it. I checked the alignment and set the toe-in when I replaced the bushings last winter.

Could the wider wheel setting be the reason it digs in much worse than the 3000?

If I move the wheels in, how far out will the toe-in be? Those adjustments are a bear to turn, I had to use heat, PB Blaster and a big pipe wrench, not looking forward to resetting the alignment.
 
Your 3000 with loader has more weight pushing the tires down so less "skidding" as it were. In my opinion it is about weight distribution and tires more than anything. I have a 671 with tires set for 30" rows but fronts are on the "outside" and a 961 set for wide rows with tires on the "inside". The 961 leaves ruts much easier than the 671 without using brakes. 961 has ballast loaded rears and extra weight of the drop axles where 671 does not.
 
I think for cultivating and planting front wheel should line with the center of the rear tire. However, for general use front end alignment is easier managed
when the front axle is "closed in". The front wheels should be mounted in the standard way rather than reversed. TOE-END adjustment is important, ie the toe
needs toe-OUT rather than toe-IN to reduce the tire digging in during sharp turns. If you are driving on the road the toe need to be near strait ahead but if
you are in dirt/grass the toe adjustment affect on driving and tire wear will be minimum if you have 1/8-1/4 inch toe-out.
 
(quoted from post at 05:21:38 05/24/18) I think for cultivating and planting front wheel should line with the center of the rear tire. However, for general use front end alignment is easier managed
when the front axle is "closed in". The front wheels should be mounted in the standard way rather than reversed. TOE-END adjustment is important, ie the toe
needs toe-OUT rather than toe-IN to reduce the tire digging in during sharp turns. If you are driving on the road the toe need to be near strait ahead but if
you are in dirt/grass the toe adjustment affect on driving and tire wear will be minimum if you have 1/8-1/4 inch toe-out.

Jim, pretty sure you mean toe in rather than toe out.
 
Showcrop I really mean the toe-in needs to be adjusted so you have a TOE-OUT of 1/8 to 1/4 inch for best sharp turns. That is different from the automotive
industry but toe-out helps prevent the tire making the largest circle from digging in the dirt like a turning plow.
Jim
 
I added aftermarket power steering to my 3000. The right steering arm is removed and a drag link is provided in the kit to link the right
wheel to the steered left side. Initially I didn't get the length of the drag length correct and I too had your problem.....I guess it was too
much toe-in....front of tire vs rear was too narrow. Moved it out a bit...?" roughly of rod shortening (steering is toward the rear of TDC)
and fixed the problem.
 

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