Ford 4000 requiring ether

Davo2022

New User
My 4000 has been over the years getting harder to start and now always requires ether stating fluid. Any ideas why this id occurring?
 

Slow cranking speed

I don't think this is an issue
Low compression

Seems to run good, has power, etc

Weak injection pressure, inj pump and or injectors.
The pump is starting to sound like the culprit. I have new injectors.
 

They can be low enough on compression to not start but still run good and have power but you'll usually notice a fair amount of blow by.

Do you have to use starting fluid every time or just on first start?
 
My first diesel tractor was (still is) a '65 Ford 3000. Went to look at it and got the sales pitch. When it got time to start it, in April, in Texas,
the seller whipped out a can of snort and gave it a good shot and it lazily fired up. I had been looking for one for a long time and here one
sat right before my eyes....all full of awe and amazement, eat up with the Dumbarse and such that we get when we are in that position.
The price was $3500.....wayyyyy to much for that machine but I was star struck....."fools and their money are soon separated" I think the
way the sayin goes.

For the unbenonced new buyer, low compression with shot rings from (the PO) running the engine with no hose between the intake
manifold and the air filter for who knows how long, in what must have been a horrible environment..

After $1k worth of parts plus a brand new OEM rubber air hose between the oil bath air filter and the intake manifold, and lots of my labor
It's been running fine with seldom having to run the thermostart even on the coldest days.
 
Send that pump out and it?ll cost a grand to get it back whether it needs it or not. Beg, borrow or steal a compression tester and know which
way you need to go before you start writing big checks. I?ll bet you are in for pistons, rings and a valve job.
 
When the injection pump hydraulic head is worn enough around the rotor ports first thing that happens is engine will not start when hot after a two to five minute shut down, but will start OK after it cools off. When the head rotor and bore are really worn engine will only start with ether, since the internal leakage is so bad no fuel gets through any injector. If new/rebuilt injectors are installed, with higher opening pressure it just makes matters worse. I'll bet the hydraulic head is severely worn from what you describe..
 
So many things are relative in this thread... As mentioned, problems could be low compression, (possibly due to low cranking speed) or a fuel
problem. One thing that has not been mentioned, and is OFTEN the culprit... is a small fuel leak on the supply side of the pump or at the
filter. Often a sniff of ether is all it takes to make enough speed to start and clear the air bubble.
With regard to cranking speed... if the tach doesn't hover around 200 rpm steadily, it's probably not cranking fast enough. That sort of
thing creeps up on you...
By all means, test the compression... but I've seen some mighty bad engines start without ether provided it's not below freezing.

Rod
 
I'll second Rick's advice.
I would want to know the condition of my engine before I would put money into a pump.
You can buy a compression tester for $50 or so.
Test it.
Yeah, it might be the pump that made it hard to start - at first. But after a steady diet of ether I'd want to know my compression readings before I went any further.
 
On the "spin it up fast enough" I had a JD 4230 that was lazy. Went from 2 - 6v series batteries connected with 0 ga. cable to 2 - 12v in parallel connected with 00 wire and slow spinning and starting aids were a thing of the past.
 

Last couple of CAV pumps for 4000's I had gone through cost me around $600, I could get the shop would test run them for $50-75, but it's been a few years.

My diesel compression gauge with Ford adapter cost me around $200 but I got one of the better brands.

Edit: I just realized it was never mentioned weather the 4000 is a early 4 cylinder model or later 3 cylinder.
 
There is one part in 65 up owners manual that people pay little attention to is the 600 hour injector change. I don't change mine but I do check them for pattern and trip pressure and replace as necessary.
 
I missed it for one. But if it ain't broke don't fix it and it's doing fine.....but I'll keep that in mind.
 

Also says every 600 hrs to adjust the valves, repack the front wheel bearing, and on gas engines change points and plugs.
That's a very good maintenance schedule that's hardly ever followed.
 

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