1968 Ford 3000 starter

streetbob

New User
Hey guys, next weekend I go to pick up a buddy's 1968 Ford 3000 diesel tractor that he left to me after his passing. Now I know from talking to him that the starter is done and it needs a new battery (he has been pull starting it the last few times). Well before I make the journey over to his place to pick it up I want to have another starter and battery to drop in and see if I can get it cranked on her own. He lives about 200 miles north of me, so I can't go get a part number off the side of the tractor to make sure I'm getting the correct starter so I was wondering if there was anyone on here that knows enough about these tractors to get me on the right page. I found this one online, I was just wanting to make sure it looks like the correct one for the application. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/new-starter-for-ford-3000-1968-3-175-diesel.html?mrkgcl=1145&mrkgadid=3209329535&rkg_id=h-e1059f9bacc97db4b8d3f74abafa5727_t-1524144813&product_id=SLU0002--0210&adpos=1o1&creative=194904876629&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg876nrnG2gIVQZ7ACh0ztwZkEAQYASABEgK9ffD_BwE Thanks for all your help!
 
from 1965 up into the 1990's when they switched to Bosch all the 3 cylinder diesels and the 5000 gas and diesel take the same starter. Lucas 5" was the generic description so any electrical supplier should have one on the shelf. Battery was a BCI group 4DLT.
 

couple of thoughts... These fords are notorious for.....

a. bad neutral safety switch that will not allow the starter to engage.

b. Corroded cable connections at the solenoid and battery. Solenoid can be a copper bolt and will strip out easily if over tighten.

c. bad battery cables that need to be replaced

d. bad, shorted, or weak battery, so bad that even a set of jumper cables will not crank it.

e. Bad charging system, either generator or voltage regulator need repair.

f. Very vary rarely a bad starter.
 

Yes that starter will fit, you also need a 4DLT battery.
Weather the tractor has a single or dual fuel filters determines how hard it is to replace the starter.
For me changing a starter on one with a single filter isn't real bad other than the inside bolt next to the block.
On models with dual filters I pull the filters off as it's near impossible to get to the solenoid with the filters in place.

It may be best just to roll start it to get it loaded and work on it when you get it home.
 
A few thoughts here:
First, I agree with Destroked 450
about pull starting it and get it
going that way then sort out
whatever electrical problems it
might have when you get it home.
You do not even need a battery to
run it. Just turn the fuel on,
push the shut off knob in and pull
it. It will run fine and cause no
problems.
Second, there are a lot of cheap
China made new parts out there.
If I were you I would bring the
old starter in to a reputable
rebuilder and have it tested first
and then rebuilt if it needs it.
Third, I will never buy another
4DLT battery. They are considered
n industrial battery, are rather
expensive and the warranty is Very
poor on them.
Better to buy an automotive
battery which will give you a Much
better pro rated warranty.
Mind you, it has to be a low
profile battery because the posts
will touch the hood if too high.
This is just a little 175 CI
engine and does not require a
gargantuan 4dlt to start it.
I'm sorry about your friend but
enjoy the gift he gave you.
Those are outstanding small
tractors.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, my plan is to eventually get the original starter rebuilt. This is really to get it going so I can get it off his property and over to my place. The rear tires are bald as all get out and ejecting treads. Last time I tried to pull start it the tires would just lock up with the clutch disengaged, I tried all 4 gears in both high and low with no luck. He had the tractor so long that he knew exactly what to do to get it to crank. I would just hate to get up there and not being able to get it going. I need to be able to get it running to get all the implements on the trailer and over to my place.
 

4th gear high range and it should crank right over with a pull.
Take a jack and raise one of the rear tires, in 4th high rock the tire back and forth to see if the engine turns, hope it hasn't set and locked up.
 

There is a automotive battery that is short enough to fit under the hood and still has good cranking power but I can't remember the number at the moment, but none have both post on the same end like the 4DLT
On the few that I have switched I installed a longer ground cable.
 
Just wanted to let you guys know that she lives again! We
ended up needing both, the starter and new battery but she
cranked to life on the 2nd crank of the starter.
 

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