Ford 4000 Issues

I'm sure this has been hashed over here a hundred times, but I don't have much luck with searching these forums.... I may go look at a 4000 diesel in the near future. Supposedly 1968 vintage. Anything to pay particular attention to on these? My main use would be to run a brush hog and flail mower. I'm thinking the independent PTO would be nice.

Thanks, Jeff.

Tuff old tractors, I've had my 69 smooth hood 4000 for 26 years if I'm still able to get on it I plan to still be using it for another 26 years, but the man upstairs will decide that.

First thing I'd check is the date code, Ford made several changes on the engine around March 68, head, cam, rods, ect and increased hp from 46 to 52. Both my 4000 and 4000SU are 52 hp models and I've had both loaded to their max.
For you that might not matter but for me the higher hp models are worth more.
Date, model codes and serial number are on the flat pad behind the starter on the right side of the tractor.
Example of date code would be 8F14B, 8= 68, F is the sixth letter of the alphabet= June, 14 is the date, B= day shift.
Date code of 8F14B would be a tractor built June 14 1968 during day shift.

Check the engine oil, if over full the power steering pump seal could be leaking, but not a big job to fix.
That older power assist steering is a little slower than the newer ones but much better than no power steering at all.
Look at the bolt holes on the front axle housing where you adjust the axle width for cracks in the housing, this is a common thing but nothing to get alarmed about.
Also check the axle pivot pins for wear and elongated holes in the housing, front hole has a bushing, back one does not and is the one that usually has the most wear, also fixable but gives one a little bargaining power.
With the engine running and pto off check to see if the pto is turning, if so the pto brake is worn or the pto clutches may be warped and dragging.
If he has a implement to attach to the 3 point hitch it would help to determine the condition of the pump and lift components by how fast it lifted and if it holds or cycles up and down, then shut the engine off and see how fast it leaks down.
A good lift will raise at a steady rate, not bounce up and down and hold the implement up for a good period of time.
Clutch should be smooth and firm, shouldn't slip in any gear and have 1-2" of pedal free travel.
Brakes should stop the tractor with little effort and no noise, the inboard wet disc brakes on these tractors are far superior to the drum brakes on older and smaller models.

Knowing what tractors you have or have had so we could offer comparisons would help.
The 3 cyl model Fords are well thought of in the industry.
Never, ever believe the hours on a 65-75 proofmeter.
After 75 they fixed that.
I prefer live pto over independent but both are good.

I'm currently using a Massey 65 for the mowing I dabble in. No complaints really, other than I would have rather had the lower utility version. Also have a Super Dexta, but I haven't used that in a long time. No power steering and the three point doesn't go high enough to get a brush hog off the ground unless you lower the pins on the mower.

Owner said he doesn't think the meter works on the 4000. It shows 1700 hours. Says it runs good. Selling to buy a loader tractor. My neighbor has a 4000SU gas. I've always thought it was a nice tractor. If I "upgrade" to this, the massey and Dexta are finding new homes. Actually the Dexta is either way....

I'm less familiar with the Massey but have always heard good things about them. Looking at tractordata it doesn't seem as though there is a huge amount of difference between your 65 and a 4000. 4000 has a few ponies more maybe.
The question "What's the best tractor ever built?" gets asked on tractor talk board on occasion and both the 4000 and 65 usually come out pretty close to the top of the heap - like top one or two.
The 4000 is a bit large for my purposes - I'm more used to the 3000 size. As I've said before here an SU would be about the ideal tractor - outstanding wet brakes, short and low, lots of power for its size.
If the price is right on that 4000 you are considering buy it and run it for a season.
Then decide. Both/either the 65 and 4000 would readily sell once you've made your choice.
By the way, you wrote: "for the mowing I dabble in"
You may be dabbling but that combo in your picture sure isn't dabbling. It looks like your tractor has its hands full.