Proofmeter Cable

Haven't been on here awhile, but I've replaced my proofmeter cable for the third time and before I run it, wanted to hear what you think may be causing it to break off at end. I took apart the gear case part of it, cleaned it up and refilled it with grease and I've had the head of it off at the top end and lubed it. What else could I do to solve this in your opinion?
 
I don't know this tractor at all but has the routing of the cable have a bend near the end where it is attaching and breaking? maybe you have routed it the same as what it was but maybe some one before you routed it wrong. OR maybe there is only one way to route it? like I said, I don't know the tractor.
 
Did the tach work at all after the two times that you replaced the cable previously before the cables broke, or did they both break as soon as the tractor was started?

Could be defective new cables if you got them from the same source, or it could be the tach itself is locked up.

I would run it without the cable connected to the instrument cluster with as little curve in the cable as possible and verify that the internal part of the cable itself spins free. Then I would try spinning the input to the tach on the back of the instrument panel with with something that will fit into the square hole in the back of the tach to make sure that the tach itself isn't stuck, first by hand, and if it spins a little by hand then with a drill.
 
It was broke when I purchased the tractor. I followed the route taken by the previous installer and ran the new one that way. It's on a Ford 3000, and it worked for awhile, but broke. The 2nd time I replaced it, it worked for a couple of months before it broke. Before I even put the first one on, I took the little gear box off, cleaned it up and regreased it before finalizing. I also had the instrument panel apart and cleaned & made sure the tach head was spinning freely before the initial test on part 1. I ordered the 2nd one from a different supplier and I have ordered the third one from a different supplier....I'm thinkin' maybe, like you said, that the person that installed the one I followed, didn't route it right to begin with. I'm not sure how it's supposed to be, but it feeds straight out of the tach and goes over the air cleaner and then drops down to the gear case, maybe it's wrong but I don't know how else to do it???
 
I wonder how the 3000 is supposed to be routed? Following the original path, it goes out the back of the tach, nearly straight over the air cleaner. But it does bend and drop there and of course when you get to the gear box, it has to bend to go in there....
 

Cables are lubed with dry lube such as graphite, not grease. When it is cold the grease gets too stiff to allow the cable to turn.
 

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