1966 Ford 4000 starting issues over winter

Had the tractor on a trickle charge over winter so I would be able to start it after winter. That didn't work out so good. Battery was super low, barley wanted to crank. Ended up buying a brand new battery. Hooked it up, started to crank two times and then nothing. I went through as much wiring as I could find and rewired and cleaned up terminals. There are a few cheap crimp connectors I need to replace but it looks better wire wise. The parts on this thing look pretty old so I don't mind replacing things such as the solenoid, push button starter, etc. as I plan on keeping it. I read on this site that a regular ford solenoid won't work so I bought a solenoid that is supposed to be for a Ford 4000. Put the new solenoid on and nothing. I tried to ground the wire going from the push button starter to ground and nothing. I took a jumper cable directly from the battery to the starter and it cranks but wont turn over. There are two parts I uploaded on this post that I am not sure would contribute to this problem. Also, I am not sure if it is just cranking and not turning over due to electrical issues or does it just need starting fluid. Is it even possible to spray starting fluid in this tractor? So with all that, I would appreciate any feedback and a few questions answered. What is the part in picture number 2 to the right of the blue wire do? The front of this part is in picture number 3. It is mounted on the right side of the tractor near the battery area. Also, the resistor in picture number 1 does not look to healthy. Will this contribute to not cranking? Lastly, is there a switch on the clutch that could be bad? I remember having to push the pedal down last summer as part of the procedure to start this thing. The worst thing is this tractor started on the first push of the button last summer and now dead to the world. Sorry to ramble but this thing is frustrating me. Need to get it out of the pole barn so I can put ball joints on my truck.

Forgot to mention, it is a gas 4 cylinder.

Picture 2 and 3 shows the light switch.

(quoted from post at 20:34:54 03/29/18) Forgot to mention, it is a gas 4 cylinder.

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If it's a gas 4 cylinder, it's not a '66 model. Light switch also looks like a '62 -'64 model 4000

That's interesting. I have a toggle switch on the front cover that turns on the lights. I am thinking this was put on by someone to bypass the switch you are referring to in pics two and three as the light switch. With this info at least I know it is not something to do with the tractor not starting. I am going to look at the points today but still trying to figure out why it all of the sudden won't start. I grounded out the push button switch and nothing. I do get 12 volts to the solenoid big post and to the small post when the key is turned on.

I'm confused " it cranks but wont turn over"

It is confusing: I always use the terminology of cranking the engine and it started or didn't start.
Some use turning over for the engine starting
Some use turning over for cranking the engine
Many of us use turning over for having a accident and turning the tractor upside down.

The starter button grounds the solenoid to activate it, if the engine would crank over with the old solenoid and not with the new on you ether wired it wrong or have the wrong solenoid.

I read on this site that a regular ford solenoid won't work so I bought a solenoid that is supposed to be for a Ford 4000. Put the new solenoid on and nothing.

Click to expand...

Which 4000 was the new solenoid designed for? The earlier 4 cylinder 4000 had a different type of solenoid than the later 3 cylinder 4000.

As others have said, if it's a 1966 4000 then it would have a 3 cylinder engine. Since you say that it has a 4 cylinder engine it has to be a 1964 or earlier tractor.

So I went to look at the points to see if
they are the cause of no start. When I
pulled the cap I saw the rotor but no
points Can someone tell me from the pic
is this thing converted to no points or are
they under the round plastic housing that
is under the rotor? Also there is an oiler
under the distributer. What does this oil
and do you just out a few drops in?

Pic

Figured out it was a dust cover.

Is this the first time you've ever done anything to this tractor?
I assumed since you stated it had set over winter and now wouldn't start, that you'd had it for a while and knew a little about it.

The points are under the round black dust shield, you'll have to remove the rotor button and the small spring clip from the dist shaft to remove the dust shield. Do Not Loose The Spring Clip

You need to get it cranking over properly first then worry about it starting.

Highly recommend you get at lease a I-T manual for your tractor, it would be a lot quicker to look in the manual for reference photo's and info, then if you can't find an answer come here and ask.

Your terminology is confusing to many of us. The most common understanding is that "crank or turn over" means that the starter rotates the engine. "fire" means that the plugs will spark. And "start or run" means that the engine will start and keep running.

Since it started very good last fall, but not now, it appears to have 2 problems. Weak battery and no spark.

Battery was weak and replaced. I would also clean both ends of both battery cables. If any corrosion in or on cables or clamps replace them.

No spark is likely due to a film developing on the points. This is not uncommon when they set for awhile. A folded piece of paper grocery sack or cardboard such as from a cereal box drawn through the closed points will often remove the corrosion.

Appreciate everyone's comments. I am going to upgrade the points coil and starter switch as the ones on it look like they had better days. Working on getting power to the starter and then spark next if it won't run. After putting a new battery in I had two attempts of it sounding like it may start and then went dead to the world. With a new battery the solenoid would not make any sound. I put a new solenoid on and still nothing. I am going to research to make sure this solenoid is the right one. It said it was for quite a few models including a 4000. I know how to test a traditional Ford auto solenoid and will look into testing this one as I am hearing there is a difference. After all that will start troubleshooting. Thought I might get lucky and find a quick answer as I am in a bind to get it moved to work on my truck. Sounds like this may take longer so will end up getting a manual which I can use in the future. U appreciate the people trying to offer suggestions as that is the good thing about forums. Take care.

Appreciate everyone's comments. I am going to upgrade the points coil and starter switch as the ones on it look like they had better days. Working on getting power to the starter and then spark next if it won't run. After putting a new battery in I had two attempts of it sounding like it may start and then went dead to the world. With a new battery the solenoid would not make any sound. I put a new solenoid on and still nothing. I am going to research to make sure this solenoid is the right one. It said it was for quite a few models including a 4000. I know how to test a traditional Ford auto solenoid and will look into testing this one as I am hearing there is a difference. After all that will start troubleshooting. Thought I might get lucky and find a quick answer as I am in a bind to get it moved to work on my truck. Sounds like this may take longer so will end up getting a manual which I can use in the future. U appreciate the people trying to offer suggestions as that is the good thing about forums. Take care.

I had a 641 that you could crank on but it wouldnt start until you let off the starter button.

Tell tale symptom of weak spark, river.

Dean

Or a starter that's drawing so much current there's none left for the ignition.