Re: 12 volt Generator to Alternator Wiring Guidance Request

Many Thanks to JMOR and JDEM for their much appreciated assist with my request.

I finally found some time to work out the bug I had on my machine.

The new alternator is now wired correctly, charges, and the fuel gage works properly.

I will deal with the red low voltage light in the future.

Thank You!

NineSixtyOne.
 
(quoted from post at 17:37:41 03/11/18) Many Thanks to JMOR and JDEM for their much appreciated assist with my request.

I finally found some time to work out the bug I had on my machine.

The new alternator is now wired correctly, charges, and the fuel gage works properly.

I will deal with the red low voltage light in the future.

Thank You!

NineSixtyOne.
ou are very welcome. Does this mean that unplugging the #1/#2 connector fixed the fuel gauge & killed the warning light?
 
JMOR, (Warning! I am hanging my rear-end out here because I am not an electrician so I will probably sound stupid).

Bear with me.

Since this is a "One Wire Alternator":

It was my understanding that the #1 wire, (the bigger/heavier gauged wire) the voltage regulator end was to be moved from the Armature terminal on the voltage regulator to the Battery terminal on the voltage regulator. The other end of that same wire went to the alternator post. That should be according to the diagram you sent me.

Because I had power to my fuel gage as soon as I hooked up my battery regardless of whether the key switch was "On" or "Off". I cut and capped the #2 wire, (the smaller/lighter gauged wire) that is normally connected/spliced to the #1 wire. From the diagram I could see that disrupted the low voltage light circuit. And, that I now have power to my fuel gage only after I turn my key switch to "On".

I hope that makes sense.

As I said earlier, the manifold heaters work, the lights work, the fuel gage works, when the key is in the "On" position now. The low voltage light does not work now. I am OK with that for now.

The alternator charges, I checked it again today and the voltage with engine running is 14.72.

Feel free to correct me if I have not done something correctly. My goal is to charge the battery on my machine and learn something along to way.

Thanks JMOR!

NineSixtyOne.
 
Sounds like you have it all working well, so I wouldn't worry. I can't follow your description, sorry. The alternator in my marked up 960 diagram has one large red wire to alternator output stud, smaller red wire from output stud to Sense #2 and a small green wire on Excite #1. #1 & #2 are both on the two terminal plug. Your use of #1 in description does not fit with this. Again, sorry for the communications problem. I'm thinking it is the green wire that you cut & capped
 
(quoted from post at 15:35:06 03/12/18) JMOR, (Warning! I am hanging my rear-end out here because I am not an electrician so I will probably sound stupid).

Bear with me.

Since this is a "One Wire Alternator":

It was my understanding that the #1 wire, (the bigger/heavier gauged wire) the voltage regulator end was to be moved from the Armature terminal on the voltage regulator to the Battery terminal on the voltage regulator. The other end of that same wire went to the alternator post. That should be according to the diagram you sent me.

Because I had power to my fuel gage as soon as I hooked up my battery regardless of whether the key switch was "On" or "Off". I cut and capped the #2 wire, (the smaller/lighter gauged wire) that is normally connected/spliced to the #1 wire. From the diagram I could see that disrupted the low voltage light circuit. And, that I now have power to my fuel gage only after I turn my key switch to "On".

I hope that makes sense.

As I said earlier, the manifold heaters work, the lights work, the fuel gage works, when the key is in the "On" position now. The low voltage light does not work now. I am OK with that for now.

The alternator charges, I checked it again today and the voltage with engine running is 14.72.

Feel free to correct me if I have not done something correctly. My goal is to charge the battery on my machine and learn something along to way.

Thanks JMOR!

NineSixtyOne.
Going through almost the same thing on my little Kutbota diesel.
Just installed a true mini one wire GM alternator. That eliminated the need for the old regulator. This means the idiot light will no longer work. New alt. has two spade connectors on the rear. Plan is to install a mini LED voltmeter and wire it into to on position on the ignition switch.
I know it's charging at 14.8v, but I'd like to know if it ever stops.
Easy way for me would to just wire up direct and leave it on all the time. That's the way it is on my golf cart.
Just going down another rabbit hole with this project.
 
(quoted from post at 19:07:22 03/12/18)
(quoted from post at 15:35:06 03/12/18) JMOR, (Warning! I am hanging my rear-end out here because I am not an electrician so I will probably sound stupid).

Bear with me.

Since this is a "One Wire Alternator":

It was my understanding that the #1 wire, (the bigger/heavier gauged wire) the voltage regulator end was to be moved from the Armature terminal on the voltage regulator to the Battery terminal on the voltage regulator. The other end of that same wire went to the alternator post. That should be according to the diagram you sent me.

Because I had power to my fuel gage as soon as I hooked up my battery regardless of whether the key switch was "On" or "Off". I cut and capped the #2 wire, (the smaller/lighter gauged wire) that is normally connected/spliced to the #1 wire. From the diagram I could see that disrupted the low voltage light circuit. And, that I now have power to my fuel gage only after I turn my key switch to "On".

I hope that makes sense.

As I said earlier, the manifold heaters work, the lights work, the fuel gage works, when the key is in the "On" position now. The low voltage light does not work now. I am OK with that for now.

The alternator charges, I checked it again today and the voltage with engine running is 14.72.

Feel free to correct me if I have not done something correctly. My goal is to charge the battery on my machine and learn something along to way.

Thanks JMOR!

NineSixtyOne.
Going through almost the same thing on my little Kutbota diesel.
Just installed a true mini one wire GM alternator. That eliminated the need for the old regulator. This means the idiot light will no longer work. New alt. has two spade connectors on the rear. Plan is to install a mini LED voltmeter and wire it into to on position on the ignition switch.
I know it's charging at 14.8v, but I'd like to know if it ever stops.
Easy way for me would to just wire up direct and leave it on all the time. That's the way it is on my golf cart.
Just going down another rabbit hole with this project.

Here's what I got.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-GM-MINI-ALTERNATOR-SBC-BBC-1-WIRE-35-AMP-SELF-EXC/331348989514?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
Yeah, I apologize JMOR. I should have just given you the short answer to your question and said Yes.

Suffice it to say, I studied your enhanced 960 diagram carefully and did what I understood you to say. Your instructions worked just like you said.

With that, I think Mission Complete!

Thanks again,

NineSixtyOne.
 

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