Remote valve: double-acting to single-acting?

Josh Tallent · Mar 11, 2018

Greetings all:

Quick question. On this remote valve, I think I can convert it from double-acting to single-acting by screwing out that little slotted plug on the front of the valve body. Question is, is that a lock nut behind it, and if so, how the heck are you supposed to get it loose? It's machined for a 9/16 wrench, but as you can see from the picture it only has two machined faces (so can't use a socket) . . . and as you probably can't see from the picture, it's recessed in a way that makes it impossible to get a wrench on squarely anyway. How is this thing supposed to work? Cheers!

riveroadrat · Mar 11, 2018

I tried to look at that valve explode on CNH partstore but the last couple of days some pages arent popping up. That nut might be just to remove that part from the casting, your screw might just need to be turned. I wouldnt try it until I see the explode on it. It could just be stuck from years of no use. spray some blaster on it.

riveroadrat · Mar 11, 2018

I found it at CNH on a 3230 model Ford in the hydraulics section. I think its diagram numbers 28-32.

riveroadrat · Mar 11, 2018

You can buy another spare fill cap to tap into it with the hose you wont be using to give you the return to the sump. Hand impact drivers work wonders on a lot of stuck screws and bolts. They make very good screwdrivers too, lots of grip area.

Josh Tallent · Mar 11, 2018

Thanks! I've been soaking it with PB Blaster for a couple days. I just realized I could put a 5/16 socket on the screw . . . it turned! Miracle! So in theory the valve should now be single-acting. Gonna take it for a spin and see what happens.

Anyway this is on a 1955 860. I've been using it this winter to plow the drive with a Ford snow blade with hydraulic lift. I'm hoping this will allow the blade to float. Down pressure was nice that time I got the front wheels in a ditch, but generally it's a pain in the neck.

Josh Tallent · Mar 11, 2018

Thanks! I never thought to check the CNH site -- I always thought this was an aftermarket, non-Ford valve.

Josh Tallent · Mar 11, 2018

Return to sump you say? Do you mean I can't just leave the plow plumbed the way it is? Forgive my total ignorance of hydraulics.

Dean · Mar 11, 2018

That's a TISCO valve. I had two dual spool versions but sold one.

Yes, I believe it is convertible, and I believe that I have a manual around here somewhere but finding it will be another issue.

I'll look later.

Dean

TimPa · Mar 11, 2018

i like your snow plow. is it ford or dearborn? i wish i had the spring trip for mine. are you connecting hydraulics to the plow, or using the 3 pt arms?

Josh Tallent · Mar 11, 2018

Cheers! It's a Ford 19-80 frame with the snow blade attachment. I gather the 19-80 came either with cable lift (using the 3-point) or hydraulic lift -- this one has hydraulic lift. This was (er, still is) my first winter with the plow. So far it's been great. The spring trip is definitely helpful.

Josh Tallent · Mar 11, 2018

Thanks Dean. Don't go to any trouble on my account, but if you do come across the manual, let me know.

So I just took the 860 out for a spin (we got about three and half feet of snow last week -- plenty of practice material!) -- even with the screw on the valve body out as far as it goes, the cylinder still had power up AND power down. I haven't changed any of the plumbing however; do I need to plumb the cylinder differently to take advantage of the single-acting setting? Again, forgive my ignorance of hydraulic systems.

riveroadrat · Mar 11, 2018

I might be confused. Does the cylinder have just 1 port or 2? I was thinking you could pull one hose off the valve, plug that valve port, and port the loose end of the hose through your fill cap. I have a FEL that doesnt have float and its a pain.

riveroadrat · Mar 11, 2018

I forgot, what does the wording say on top of the valve?

Josh Tallent · Mar 12, 2018

The cylinder has two ports; I have a line from the rear remote going to each. It was working fine as power up/power down -- except that I have to fiddle with the height constantly to keep it from digging in or leaving snow.

The valve says "quick drop valve" and has an arrow pointing to the screw in the front of the valve body. Below that it says "normal operation -- full in" and "single acting cylinder -- full out."

I don't understand why I still have power down (although it seems like not as much) with the screw in the "single acting" position.

Destroked 450 · Mar 12, 2018

Disconnect the hose going to the top of the cylinder, unplug it from the tractor and disconnect it from the cylinder. the single acting postion allows fluid to bypass back to the sump, but will put a small amount of pressure against the cylinder if the second line is connected.

Do not plug the port on the cylinder, it needs to vent, I usually screw in a 90* pipe fitting turned down to keep stuff out of the cylinder

Sean in PA · Mar 12, 2018

If turning the adjustment screw all of the way out still results in fluid flow out of that side of the valve, then the valve may be leaking internally.

A true single acting cylinder only has one hydraulic port, and the side of the cylinder body that does not have fluid is vented. As was suggested, try disconnecting the hydraulic hose from the top side of the cylinder and run that line back to the hydraulic fill port as a test to see if you get what you want in terms of gravity as the only down force. If so, rig up something to keep the dirt out of the exposed port on the cylinder (an elbow fitting with an inch or so of pipe on it with the open end facing down should suffice.

At that point you can either leave the other line going back to the fill port or rebuild the control valve so that it's not leaking any fluid out that port when it's in single acting mode.

Sean in PA · Mar 12, 2018

One more note - depending on the conditions and the type of surface you are plowing, even gravity might be too much down force to allow it to float the way you would like.

riveroadrat · Mar 12, 2018

Well the arrow points to the other plug but in the parts explode it looks just like a plug and nothing more. I would call a dealer and talk to service dept with someone who knows the valves. I think one screw is rate of drop and the other lets it bypass. There are actually 3 screws in the explode. Diagnosis not guaranteed. I used to tell an ex-wife, I'm only perfect most of the time.

Josh Tallent · Mar 12, 2018

Got it -- thanks! Looks like we're in for some more snow tonight (third nor'easter in two weeks, yeesh). I'll try venting the top port tomorrow and see what happens.

Josh Tallent · Mar 12, 2018

Yes, agreed. That blade is pretty heavy. The driveway is gravel so I expect to pick up some stone, especially when the ground isn't frozen. I guess I was more annoyed that I would miss areas every time the pitch of the machine changed. My wife has a Subaru and doesn't care; I have a little two-wheel-drive hatchback and totally care.

Everyone, thanks so much for all the help! This forum is an excellent resource.

Remote valve: double-acting to single-acting?

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