boy do I need some help.. ford 3000 bucking and spitting

greymond

Member
SO~ I just did a major overhaul on this tractor. NEW carb, distributor, coil, solenoid, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor.. basically the works all new.
I also ran a rubber fuel line (replacing both hard lines) off the petcock at the tank through a fuel filter to the pump then rubber line from the out line on the pump to the carb.
The rig idles fine but as soon as I apply about 2000rpm it will buck and spit and want to die. the timing is adjusted all the way to the notch on the right. It is possible I am off a tooth on the dizzy but I was pretty careful about that.
ANY ideas what to check would be very helpful
thanks
 
i just checked the dizzy position it is dead on. Just timed it at about 600rpm timed to 2 degrees BTDC per the book.
idles great! Spark plug gap is 24 and the plug burn looks good. I am at a loss. No idea whats going on here.
I ran 1/4" fuel line hose replacing the hard line that was leaking. I have an inline filter in it. One of the napa silver colored metal ones. Carb is getting fuel. Maybe not enough fuel. But in my experience the bucking and cutting out with a backfire usually isnt from lack of fuel. I could be wrong. I haven't worked on a mechanically fuel pump for a quite a while.
Any help would be much appreciated!
 
Bad points & condensor. Re-check or better yet replace them. I've had brand new ones bad out of the box do the same thing you're describing.
 
here are a few pictures of my setup... This dizzy is a mechanical advance. I eliminated my vacuum line and plugged the hole at the intake. I swapped the rotor and cap and nothing has changed. As soon as I accelerate to 1500 it will backfire spit and die.
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto12375.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto12376.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto12377.jpg"/>
 
I am literally having the same problems with my 860 period same as you I have new points condenser coil and the works. Interested to see what comes of this. I am at a loss as well
 
pretty frustrating. I have one screen and one inline filter on it. I cant imagine the carb has some dirt or debris issue. It seems to me if it was the carb is would at least idle up to full throttle and be intermittent. but this is consistently doing the same thing. Great idle, then I idle up and and cant go past 1500 rpm. Same thing every time.
I hate to throw any more parts at it.
 
update
I pulled the intake off the NEW carburetor and there was fuel in the intake of the carb and in the intake pipe. This is a brand new Zenith carb. I am itching to pull it apart and see whats what. However, I dont want to disrupt any warranty issue. Seems like the needle is sticking
 
What is your fuel pressure? We had a batch of aftermarket pumps that put out so much pressure they would blow out the nylon fuel lines. Excess pressure will overcome the needle and seat.
 
When you've truly eliminated anything electrical causing the problem, I would say that generally a backfire condition is an indication of too lean running. I hate to blame carburetors because they are so simple and they don't discriminate but you may have fine fuel delivery at idle and up to 1,499 RPM but at 1,500 you may be lacking, particularly if you have no black smoke. Once the backfire occurs, it's likely to die.
 
I have eliminated all the electrical. I even pulled the valve cover and checked the valves. I have not checked the fuel pressure. I believe it is 3 or 4 psi? I think that is what I read. I don't have a fuel pressure tester. I did pull the line and cranked over the motor. The fuel squirts out in spurts as the motor turns. Not sure if that is what it does?
The only thing not stock is the rubber line I put on with the inline filter. In my experience I don't see how replacing that hard line with a rubber 1/4" would over or underwhelm the carb.
 
(quoted from post at 05:29:03 03/09/18) I have eliminated all the electrical. I even pulled the valve cover and checked the valves. I have not checked the fuel pressure. I believe it is 3 or 4 psi? I think that is what I read. I don't have a fuel pressure tester. I did pull the line and cranked over the motor. The fuel squirts out in spurts as the motor turns. Not sure if that is what it does?
The only thing not stock is the rubber line I put on with the inline filter. In my experience I don't see how replacing that hard line with a rubber 1/4" would over or underwhelm the carb.


Make sure you don't have any trash in the bowl and let your needle see the seating and Float height is good which it should be cuz it's new. After that you may want to try to adjust the air-fuel mixture screw. I'm 99.9% sure you have a carburetor issue
 
My experience with carburetors tells me fuel leaking from the air intake is carb related. Being the carb is new and this happened on the first start I decided to call them and explain it. They were great about it and will send me out a new carb. Their "carb guy" thinks the needle is not seating correctly.
Thats great of them. Sucks I have to wait another 4 or 5 days to get back at it.
I'll update when I get a new carb back in it.
 
Sounds like your issue should be very easy to eliminate fuel are spark as the issue.

Add fuel when the event happens if it clears it up its a fuel issue. You can spray brake clean are propane into the throat of the carb to see if it helps are clears it up.

You need a inline spark tester one that uses a light hook it in line with the coil wire watch for the light to go dimmer are miss flashes to eliminate a spark issue.

I don't think timing is your issue you do need to check total timing while there set the timing to total and forget about base timing.
 
it appears to be advancing properly. I am not exactly sure the degree of advance above 1000rpm. I assume from expiernece it should advance 10 to 30 degrees at around 2000 rpm. I can see the timing mark advance when I get on the throttle but I can't see how many degrees.
If the advance was not working properly the carb would not spill gas out of the air intake. At least not in my experience with carbs.
 
(quoted from post at 21:17:03 03/09/18) have you got a link to a good inline spark tester like the one you describe?
thanks

Google "spark tester light" they are around $10 most all parts stores have them.

Google "adjustable spark tester" another $10

Mark your flywheel were you want the total to be install your light and adjust the dist. to that mark at what the total advance should be at the recommended RPM.

Sometimes spark and fuel issues mimic there self it takes a trained ear to tell the difference and then it not 100% reliable.
What does a light tell you (the one you hook in series with a plug wire)

What we don’t know and what it will not tell you is spark health (KV) If you have a good runner with intermittent issues you learn to judge spark health by the color of the light You will have to be the judge.

On a no start it can be used to see the event now what has that told you.

The event is happing the points and coil are functioning on a EI set up the module is trigging the coil. That’s about it but good info to have handy.

What we don’t know and need to know is spark health I will let you fill that one in you will need an adjustable spark tester for that info lets get back to a light as a helpful tool.

Let say we have a engine that starts runs well but sputters acts like a fuel issue it may clear up it may not it may run good one day the next it won’t. Install the light spark checker start the engine and monitor the light when the event happens if the light flashes a normal spark even as its sputtering are shutting down spark is not you problem. If the light shows a weaker light, are the light is strong and then weak are missing flashes I go straight for an ignition problem.

The number one issue I see is points new are old on an intermittent sputter acts like fuel issue they will light off a 12V test light hooked between the points and coil perfect it will fire a KV tester don’t take that to that bank spark is OK it will bite you. The prof on a runner is to back it up with a inline light spark checker and monitor the flash when the event happens as I have mentioned. I can do it with an adjustable KV tester only because I have ton’s of experience with it.



If you verified good spark health with a spark checker THEN a spark checker light tool may come in handy to catch an intermittent issue. The tools needed are a adjustable spark tester and a in line spark tester with a light.

A adjustable spark checker is to check spark health an in line is not. A in line with a light is to capture the event you will use your scene of site to evaluate the event.
 
i ran a propane torch into every nook and cranny on and around the intake and got no change. I thought it was a leak somewhere but if there is one I surely can't find it.
 
(quoted from post at 16:36:38 03/10/18) i ran a propane torch into every nook and cranny on and around the intake and got no change. I thought it was a leak somewhere but if there is one I surely can't find it.


WOW! NEW carb replaced per manufactures advice. They sent me a new carb and it did NOT fix this problem. There is fuel spilling out of the intake at idle and up to 1000 rpm. It then backfires and wants to stop. It looks as good as I can tell like it is advance okay. I swapped out the brand new mechanical advance dizzy with the old vacuum advance dizzy and it didnt change anything. I put a spark tester on it and it looks like it is sparking okay. Nothing erratic. In the park tester it is not bright blue it is more yellow orange. It doesn't say on the instructions for it what color it is suppose to be. SO I have no idea what to check next. I am at a total loss as a part time mechanic
 
I also put a new radiator in it. The seams on the old one split. On the old one and the new one the overflow would pour coolant out until the thermostat opened. Doesn't seem like that should be happening.
 
You should only add coolant until the core is covered by a half inch or so. If you fill the radiator any higher it will spit out coolant when it warms up.

As for your original issue, have you tried running it without the air intake hose connected to the carb? And have you checked the air intake all the way to the filter for any clogs, and have you tried replacing the filter?
 
Okay thats good news as far as the coolant.
I am running the carb with the intake off. And I do put the tube on once in a while to see if there is any difference.
Below are a few photos. The rig runs the best and gets up to its highest RPM with the timing all the way to the slot on the right. But if I accelerate any more than 2000rpm it bucks and dies. The gas line is 1/4" with the two filters pictured. The fuel pump is new.
Any ideas would be great..

mvphoto12899.jpg


mvphoto12900.jpg


mvphoto12901.jpg


mvphoto12902.jpg
 
the coil has the distributor wire on the negative side post and the ignition and yellow generator wire on the positive side. I believe that is correct? The coil is new but maybe it is faulty. I did an ohm reading on it and it appeared to be within spec. But that was off the rig
 
The coil polarity is correct.

Do you know the flow ratings for those inline fuel filters? They are not original to the tractor and there are several kinds that look similar. Some are designed for gravity fed systems and others for systems with pumps, and one designed for a riding mower won't produce enough flow to keep a 3000 running much above idle no matter whether it's designed for gravity or a pump. Have you tried running it without either of those filters installed?
 
Yes, my worry with this issue is fuel delivery. I haven't pulled the filters just yet. I would expect there to be no fuel coming out of the carb intake if the fuel delivery was lacking. There is a pretty good drip coming out of the intake at idle and at 1500 rpm. I may be wrong but it seems as if the carb is being flooded. I am going to go at it today (day 3).
 
It would be quite a surprise if this carb was faulty same as the other new one. Both new zenith carbs faulty? wow. I pulled the intake to see if there was a crack somewhere I couldn't see. Looked good so I have ruled that out. I also had an older inline pressure regulator and I installed that thinking that the gas coming out of the carb was due to over fueling. DIdnt do squat. I am beyond what to do next. Perhaps it is a second new carb that is bad.
I have never seen fuel coming out the intake of a carb due to an intake manifold gasket leak. I did rev it up to where it begins to buck and I sprayed starting fluid in there and it ran like a charm leading me to believe it is carb related.
 
How many times do people need to point out those non factory fuel filters and the fact that they may be limiting fuel flow!
Hobo told you to test that on 3-9 and you just did it today and you have proved that you are starving for fuel.
A carb can't provide fuel it doesn't have.

Look at the picture of that fuel filter. There is air trapped in it!

Blunt but needed.
Keith
 
pulled both filters and tested the pressure. Put both filters back on and tested the pressure. Tested dead on relative to the book specs.
That picture is after I shut the valve off, pulled the carb out
A starved carb would spit fuel out the intake? Never seen that
 
(quoted from post at 21:40:32 03/15/18) pulled both filters and tested the pressure. Put both filters back on and tested the pressure. Tested dead on relative to the book specs.
That picture is after I shut the valve off, pulled the carb out
A starved carb would spit fuel out the intake? Never seen that

Pressure is not flow. Please try running the tractor with those filter removed.

The fuel in the intake is due to the engine not running properly and therefore it can't suck what fuel is there into the cylinders, so it stays in the manifold and then drops back down though the throat of the carb after the engine shuts off completely. Do you see fuel on the intake side of the carb when it is running with the intake tube disconnected? No, you only see it after the engine runs poorly and then shuts off.
 
No, I see fuel dripping out of the carb intake with the engine running at idle and at 1500 rpm. This is my concern.
 
I also ran the rig WITHOUT the filters. Put in two 5/16" connectors in the place of the filters. NO CHANGE
 
I also ran the rig then pinched the fuel line with a pair of hemostats and removed the carb to see if the bowl had gas to be sure it wasn't dry. I pulled the top of the carb off and the bowl was full of gas
 
OK, back to the beginning... Did it have the problem before you redid everything that you mentioned in the first post of this thread? I think we all assumed that it did and that you did all of those changes because of this problem, but I just want to make sure.
 
I had a similar problem. The old Holley carb was failing. I pulled it and found one of the posts for the float had corroded and wouldn't hold the float up correctly so I had no choice but to get a new carb.
The gas hardline to the tank petcock was leaking at the connection. I searched and searched and I couldn't find a hard line replacement for the line. I ended up swapping all the fuel line with rubber line. One of the frustrating things is the problem I am having was similar to the problem with the old carb. I KNOW the old carb was bad, there was no question. I cant believe this new carb is bad. This weekend I'll get the intake back on and go from there
 
Have you checked timing with a light at the flywheel mark or just played with that adjustment slot you posted a picture of? That bracket with the slot also clamps to the distributor body. So the slot doesn't show anything significant other than you're at the far limit of it's adjustment AS IT IS SET by the previous owner/mechanic.

Has this tractor ever run right for you? Check that timing at the mark with a light.
 
So I posted on this that I was having the same issue. After a couple carb rebuilds and all it would run better but not great and definitely not higher than idle.

It was the coil!

Just put a new coil on with an internal resister with some new points and condenser while I was at it (BOTH HAD BEEN CHANGED AFTER MY RECENT REBUILD AS WELL) and now it runs like a dream. Just bush hogged with it and no issues.

I had this same problem in my truck a few years back (1971 ford) new motor and the works. Started acting up and long story short after a new distributer and everything it was the coil.

I learned once again to keep it simple until I had truly exhausted all simple routes.
 
I spent the afternoon with mine. Pulled the distributor back out and set the engine to TDC then re installed. The rotor is dead on #1. Seems to run better but I still cannot get it to rev up without cutting out. The one thing that happened early on was the yellow wire that goes from the coil over to the generator was hanging on by about 2 threads of wire. I cut and soddered them back together. Other than that everything has been either looked at or replaced. Not sure what to do next.
I'll try to time it in the morning and see where thats at. I had it timed 3 degrees BTDC which is pretty close to optimum and it still would not idle up. One of the only things I haven't replaced is the voltage reg.
 
This tractor ran and revved up when I first got it but it would cut out and miss and backfire then run fine. The carb had never been off the thing and it was running really rich. I couldn't get it to lean out no matter what I did. When I pulled the carb I saw the damage on the float post. It would idle up fine and run around with plenty of power. This was all after I did the head gasket and a valve job.
Then I swapped the coil, rebuilt the starter, new starter solenoid, new carb, new coil, new distributor, new fuel pump, new rubber gas lines and new petcock. I just put a new coil with the resistor that rides on top and I have that hooked up now and still no change.
 
Ford 2000; 3 cyl. gas; 4/1 trans....I had problems getting my tractor started. You could see the filter from the top of the fuel cut off valve laying in the bottom of the gas tank. No telling how long it had been off the top of that valve. I replaced the valve/filter and the tractor cranked right up. Turned out there was a bunch of trash in the valve restricting the flow. Also replaced the rubber fuel lines with 5/16 inch hose, not 1/4". Good luck with getting yours running smoothly.
 

I marked the flywheel to the left of the 0 mark at 10 degrees in order to see if the advance is working. It advances with the throttle going up but I can't go too far because it will cut out and die. With the timing light on the mark when I accelerate the mark bounces around and the light cuts out briefly.. Only at acceleration not at idle.
Also I pulled this resistor wire off the coil that goes over to the female in the harness by the generator. I had to cut and splice it due to it being damaged. It clearly says "do not cut and splice" on the wire. I shortened the wire and put on a new male end and tried that but it didnt change my problem
Could this cause this problem I am having?
mvphoto13217.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 09:27:11 03/20/18)
I marked the flywheel to the left of the 0 mark at 10 degrees in order to see if the advance is working. It advances with the throttle going up but I can't go too far because it will cut out and die. With the timing light on the mark when I accelerate the mark bounces around and the light cuts out briefly.. Only at acceleration not at idle.
Also I pulled this resistor wire off the coil that goes over to the female in the harness by the generator. I had to cut and splice it due to it being damaged. It clearly says "do not cut and splice" on the wire. I shortened the wire and put on a new male end and tried that but it didnt change my problem
Could this cause this problem I am having?
mvphoto13217.jpg


Greymond have you been reading the responses that you already have before asking for more?
 
(quoted from post at 15:26:48 03/07/18) SO~ I just did a major overhaul on this tractor. NEW carb, distributor, coil, solenoid, plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor.. basically the works all new.
I also ran a rubber fuel line (replacing both hard lines) off the petcock at the tank through a fuel filter to the pump then rubber line from the out line on the pump to the carb.
The rig idles fine but as soon as I apply about 2000rpm it will buck and spit and want to die. the timing is adjusted all the way to the notch on the right. It is possible I am off a tooth on the dizzy but I was pretty careful about that.
ANY ideas what to check would be very helpful
thanks

This may be a longshot but check for worn distributor shaft bushings. If the shaft wobbles then the spark timing won't be right.
 
Yes , I believe I have. I have done everything suggested in this thread that I can do. I don't have a spark adjuster so I haven't done that.
 
Cutting the wire that said "do not cut" can cause your ignition coil to cook. That is a resistance wire, it drops the battery's 12v down to 8 something for the ignition. Shortening it can cause ignition problems - burnt points / blown condenser / roasted coil

I would try getting either a ballast resistor or a coil designed to run without an external resistor/resistor wire.
 
I did put a ballast resistor on it and looked at the volts at the wire 8. So good there.
I did find out this new carb is jetted at LEAST 3 numbers down from the Holley carb. It is clearly smaller, clearly with my bad eyes I can see the difference.
I finally had a second hand out here today and I could do a little more inspection with two people. Restricting the air intake to the carb straighten things out a bit.
Now I am in the process of either drilling out this jet or finding a company that has compatible jets.
what a total PITA
 
(quoted from post at 15:45:16 03/20/18) I did put a ballast resistor on it and looked at the volts at the wire 8. So good there.
I did find out this new carb is jetted at LEAST 3 numbers down from the Holley carb. It is clearly smaller, clearly with my bad eyes I can see the difference.
I finally had a second hand out here today and I could do a little more inspection with two people. Restricting the air intake to the carb straighten things out a bit.
Now I am in the process of either drilling out this jet or finding a company that has compatible jets.
what a total PITA
Are you sure the problem is in the carburetor? To me it sounds electrical and a good garage ignition scope may show the problem
 
(quoted from post at 12:08:56 03/20/18)
(quoted from post at 09:27:11 03/20/18)
I marked the flywheel to the left of the 0 mark at 10 degrees in order to see if the advance is working. It advances with the throttle going up but I can't go too far because it will cut out and die. With the timing light on the mark when I accelerate the mark bounces around and the light cuts out briefly.. Only at acceleration not at idle.
Also I pulled this resistor wire off the coil that goes over to the female in the harness by the generator. I had to cut and splice it due to it being damaged. It clearly says "do not cut and splice" on the wire. I shortened the wire and put on a new male end and tried that but it didnt change my problem
Could this cause this problem I am having?
mvphoto13217.jpg


Greymond have you been reading the responses that you already have before asking for more?

This bothers me that the timing light cuts out... if the light is good.. then your loosing fire at higher rpms... question is why?

are the points bouncing or defective? is the wire between the coil and points intermittent and when the distributor advances, the wire goes open?? Is the dist poorly grounded and the little ground wire missing? Is the feed to the coil weak and not carrying enough current? Is the coil wire to distributor breaking down? Does the dist cap have carbon trails or moisture inside?

the timing light should show fire at all rpms.. If you cant do this, then your going no where. As others have said,, worn dist bearings and cause the shaft to wobble at higher rpms, making the points gap change and cause miss fire. a dwell meter will show this was well.
 
Thank you for the help! I have a few days off this week and I can focus more attention on this tractor. The distributor is new. It is a mechanical advance distributor. I swapped in the new one and this issue didnt change. Then I put back in the old one and hooked back up the vac advance and still no change (just to rule out the dizzy.)
I would have a few more answers if I had a little more time.
I'll update this week
thanks again
 
RUNNING! and running well!
Deep in the wiring there had been a burned white wire that had melted into the ground wire next to the resisted coil wire. In addition to this I drilled the jet one number up in diameter. Giving just a bit more fuel and that did the trick. Runs great now. Thanks to those being patient with me and helping me get it going!
 

Congratulations Mr Posterboy for the preference of trouble shooting over parts replacing!! A current drain problem is much more difficult to diagnose than a loss of current, so it was a tough problem. Your main obstacle was your tunnel vision which is VERY common, in continuing on a hunt for a timing problem at the expense of more broad and thorough examination. But you finally got to it. Congratulations again and thanks for posting back. This will go into the annals as another one to be suggested when someone else has a similar problem.
 
One thing I thought I learned long ago when dealing with people is to be objective and not to take everything they say as written in stone. The previous owner repeatedly told me the tractor ran perfect until the head gasket blew. "Perfect" is subjective. My repair process started out with what she told me about this tractors condition. I assumed everything was working. Turns out the carburetor was shot beyond repair in addition to a whole slew of other parts. The burning of the electrical may have happened at the time of the head gasket failure. That's certainly possible. I did what I thought was a pretty good once over on the tractor. The burn in the wiring was under the old electrical tape and was not visible without taking off the tape. Pretty frustrating initially and my patience isn't what it use to be.
Now on to peripheral issues with this old Ford. And it's time to put it to work!
Thanks again for the help everyone!
 

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