Replacement parts

Does anyone have any strong feelings on replacement parts. I have found a huge discrepancy in prices amongst the various aftermarket suppliers. And even greater discrepancy on Ebay. Replacing rear axle on my 53 Jubilee. I've found new aftermarket for 180 from well known after market suppliers, used on Ebay for 50, new on Ebay with Hub and extras for 160. Why the huge variation? The Ebay new bundle with hub/axle etc. seems almost too good to be true? Any thoughts?
 
Are the new sellers using the same supplier in this case?
Prices are certainly all over the place, but sometimes more so
with different suppliers. Quality varies widely in some cases too.

Another question, are you interested in a good used original?
I've got one leaning in the corner of the shop.
Still got the backing plate and brakes on it even.
I can get you pics of it if you are.
 
Splines are in tact. I'll get you some pictures of it.
Won't be tonight, but hopefully tomorrow or Thursday.
 
I would strongly recommend good used OEM parts viv a vis any aftermarket parts.

BTDT.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 01:34:01 03/07/18) I would strongly recommend good used OEM parts viv a vis any aftermarket parts.

BTDT.

Dean

#2 for what Dean said. My experience with aftermarket major mechanical parts for older tractors is that the metallurgy is all over the map. There is probably a lot of little mom and pop Asian sources for things like gears, manifolds, waterpumps, radiators, etc. Usually your best bet is to source these parts from a reliable company here in the states, because (hopefully) they have done their homework on what is actually suitable, and also offer a return policy. My last experience was with a intake/exhaust manifold for the 172 c.i.d. engine. Took 3 tries, and they went from "almost right", to "you'd better own a machine shop".
 

So found nice little shop to help with basic repairs etc.. Every guy there had or is rebuilding vintage tractor. Owner forwarned me about aftermarket and encouraged used original parts. Problem is, am I just buying what I have? You never know online. Doesn't seem like after market suppliers (YT not excluded) provide much insight as to how they source products. Seems like a shot in the dark who you buy from. Is there a consensus as to who's best/most reliable for aftermarket parts? Steiner? YT? Dennis Carpenter? I know there will be bias' out there, but let's hear some honest answers. Thanks
 

OK posted a reply here and seems lost in cyber space, so here we go again. Found nice little auto shop to help me with basic stuff, they all seem to have tractors they are rebuilding. Owner very nice, warned me about after market products, try to stick to original if possible. Problem is, buying used means maybe you are buying what you already have. None of the after market suppliers seem to declare themselves as having better quality than the next, or at least be able to substaniate. Is there one that you folks feel is better? I know this is YT site, is there a bias towards their product or is someone better? Or is it just the service that makes one stand out from the rest? Parts that are less crucial I don't really care about origin. But hubs, axles, manifolds would like better quality - willing to pay extra. Thoughts?
 
Its been my experience that you have to check where items are made. a whole lot of them are not made in the usa. I was told there was no one who made gauges in the usa anymore. there all made over seas. prices will vary. Sometimes you will pay more for a named brand even though its made overseas. so do your search on the internet home work and then try to decide which way is the best for you.
 
I have had a lot of trouble with dennis carpenter parts. Had to get four fuel gauges before they sent me one that worked. I also found there customer service to be rather rude when I asked about a part they did not ship.

A lot of OEM dealers don't sell OEM parts. I get my electrical parts from Select Parts. SP also sells to the JD and the Case IH dealer here. Here when you go to the JD dealer and ask for a starter for a 60,630, 4020, or 4430. They hand you a Wilson brand starter that came off the same truck that sells me starters.
 
(quoted from post at 18:38:28 03/07/18) I have had a lot of trouble with dennis carpenter parts. Had to get four fuel gauges before they sent me one that worked. I also found there customer service to be rather rude when I asked about a part they did not ship.

A lot of OEM dealers don't sell OEM parts. I get my electrical parts from Select Parts. SP also sells to the JD and the Case IH dealer here. Here when you go to the JD dealer and ask for a starter for a 60,630, 4020, or 4430. They hand you a Wilson brand starter that came off the same truck that sells me starters.

This is exactly what I expected. One person says buy from DC, the next person says I had nothing but problems with them. Someone said research the seller, “do your homework”. I called YT and Steiner. Neither could tell me where a particular item was made. They looked up the item and said probably made overseas. Boy that was helpful. I’m still a believer that doesn’t really matter where it’s made, it’s the specifications and tolerances that are the determining factor. Yet, most imported stuff is cheap for a reason, poor QC, low quality material and cheap labor = bad product.
 

Sorry Dean should have been more clear. Explain in the sense that, you recommend DC because...

He buys from high end supplier?
He has best return policy?
etc. etc. etc.
 

This is exactly what I was expecting. We have one person recommending DC one with bad experience. Earlier post states I need to do my homework. I called YT and Steiner. Asked about a specific part and it's origin. Representatives had no clue, said "I think it's made overseas?" I guess I'm not totally shocked, the economy has become so global that to have a well known and respected manufacturer seems unrealistic. My take, pick a vendor, buy as little as you can, expect the worst, and be shocked if it meets or exceeds expectation.
 
"buying used means maybe you are buying what you already have."

Does this mean you're not interested in used anymore?

In a sense he's right, you're buying what you already have.
A quality part that has stood up to years of service and who
knows how many hours of use. The key is to find one with less
hours of use, which often will show up with a visual inspection.
Worn hubs, for example, set too far back on the splines.
Since the splines protrude, the nut can't tighten against the hub.
 

I'm very interested in buying used-original. I will have to rely on the honesty and integrity of the seller. As we discussed about he axle. A good condition used axle at a reasonable price is probably better than a new aftermarket. I was looking at my two hubs tonight. One original, one aftermarket. The original looks thicker and heavier. Unfortunatley splines are thin and at this point likely not worth saving other than to have as back up or wall hanging in shop. Thus, I will make compromises. If I get a good used axle, with good splines etc. then may just have to bite the bullet and take a shot on after after market hub.
 
"royce were you able to snap any pictures of the axle(s) you have?"

I didn't, but if you're still interested I'll get them tomorrow evening.
 
I try to buy used original when I can.

But... going forward parts are only increasingly going to be aftermarket imports. A lot of that stuff is actually OK, and my sense is that over time quality will improve. The frustrating part is it is no longer as simple as new "OEM best, aftermarket if necessary". The aftermarket stuff is almost impossible to nail down as to differences in quality.

MS clone carburetors for example. You can get a clone for a 8N for $60, or one for $200. What's the difference? Is there actually any difference? There's nothing to go by. More stuff becomes available all of the time, recently there are MS clones for 601 and 801 series carbs (MX765) for around $150. Are they better than the $60 8N carb, or just new and sellers are trying to capitalize on being first to market? My sense is that in 6 months you'll be able to get one for $60 as well.

I guess we're the guinea pigs, all we can do is buy the stuff and compare notes.
 
(quoted from post at 07:01:24 03/08/18) I try to buy used original when I can.

But... going forward parts are only increasingly going to be aftermarket imports. A lot of that stuff is actually OK, and my sense is that over time quality will improve. The frustrating part is it is no longer as simple as new "OEM best, aftermarket if necessary". The aftermarket stuff is almost impossible to nail down as to differences in quality.

MS clone carburetors for example. You can get a clone for a 8N for $60, or one for $200. What's the difference? Is there actually any difference? There's nothing to go by. More stuff becomes available all of the time, recently there are MS clones for 601 and 801 series carbs (MX765) for around $150. Are they better than the $60 8N carb, or just new and sellers are trying to capitalize on being first to market? My sense is that in 6 months you'll be able to get one for $60 as well.

I guess we're the guinea pigs, all we can do is buy the stuff and compare notes.

Very well said CTPhil
 
Sorry for the late reply, mass and rosary took longer than
expected today. I did get you a couple of pictures though.
Good or bad.

12453.jpg


12454.jpg
 

Can't tell much from the pics.
Is the hub in good shape and is it tight?
Splines on the axle good shape?
Are you selling as is? Meaning axle, hub, brake plate, dust plate?
How much are you asking?
 
I never tried to take the hub off to inspect the splines, just pulled it
out of the tractor as you see it. The hub-nut is definitely aftermarket.
It is one of the two piece replacements with the locknut.
Like [b:8f009268da]this[/b:8f009268da] one.

Everything goes, will even include the brake shoes that were on it.
They look to be in very good condition. Not sure what I did with the springs.

Next week I can take it apart and tell you more about it if you'd like.
Or you can have it as is for $40. That's the price of the locknut.
My email is open on modern view if you'd like to discuss it further.
 
primarily I want the hub and axle (bearing) to be in good condition. If those three things are in good shape I'm happy, the rest is gravy. I have an axle nut, break plate and bearing retainer. Are you able to loosen the axle nut to see if the hub is tight or loose?
 

Royse, any chance you got a further look at the axle. I have some time later this week - if splines and hub are tight I'd like to get them
 
I was gone all weekend and then back to work today, so I haven't
looked at it. If you're trying to replace only the worn parts, do you
know which of yours are worn? Is it the hub, the axle, or both?
The hub is softer than the axle and often wears out first.
 

I'm replacing the hub and the axle - so will need both. If I have to buy new aftermarket I'd prefer to buy hub, trying to find good original axle
 
I've been up to my elbows in another project so I haven't had
time to take it apart. I'll try to get it disassembled this weekend.
 
(quoted from post at 09:42:06 03/17/18) Couple of pictures. Second one is the hub slid back on as far as it will go by hand.

13032.jpg


13033.jpg

Two questions how do the splines look on the axle and is the hub tight or when you rotate it does it rock/play? If they look good and there’s little to no play when the hub is on I’ll take it. How would we meet to exchange?
 
(quoted from post at 14:27:10 03/17/18)
(quoted from post at 09:42:06 03/17/18) Couple of pictures. Second one is the hub slid back on as far as it will go by hand.

13032.jpg


13033.jpg

Two questions how do the splines look on the axle and is the hub tight or when you rotate it does it rock/play? If they look good and there’s little to no play when the hub is on I’ll take it. How would we meet to exchange?
I think you may be better off buying new aftermarket parts.
 
(quoted from post at 13:34:15 03/17/18)
(quoted from post at 14:27:10 03/17/18)
(quoted from post at 09:42:06 03/17/18) Couple of pictures. Second one is the hub slid back on as far as it will go by hand.

13032.jpg


13033.jpg

Two questions how do the splines look on the axle and is the hub tight or when you rotate it does it rock/play? If they look good and there’s little to no play when the hub is on I’ll take it. How would we meet to exchange?
I think you may be better off buying new aftermarket parts.

I appreciate your honesty, can I ask why?
 
"I appreciate your honesty, can I ask why?"

Well, I don't mean to insult, but the pictures show the condition
of the splines and the fit of the hub to the axle. Those are known
indicators of how well the parts fit and their wear. If those aren't
recognizable, I think you would be better off getting new ones so
you don't have to worry about judging the condition of used ones.

I wish you had contacted me by email as I requested so we could
talk outside of a public forum for everyone to see.
 

Sorry Royce, wasn't personal. Just hard to judge splines from single view. All I wanted to know was if in your opinion they looked good. As for the hub, just wanted to know if it was tight or loose. I said I would trust your judgement. Your offer was very fair, and your effort has been commendable. As for the email thing, seems like they want a lot of personal information to utilize it. Never seen that before. Still interested, if you want out I understand.
 
Absolutely no hard feelings on my part.
I have two tractors it fits, so I think I'll just keep it as a spare.
 

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