Ford 5000 pinging and dieseling

NBFarmboy

New User
Hello all, I have a ford 5000 gas job I recently aquired
Having an issue of pinging at medium to high throttle or a moderate load, I can make this go away by adjusting the distributor timing. However when I adjust this the tractor will not shut off, just keeps knocking and pinging along. I have fresh gas in the tank. Have not found a happy medium where it will not do this. Anyone able to give some pointers
 
It's been a while since I've heard the term "dieseling". With today's vehicles, it just doesn't happen much anymore.

That said, this is usually caused by glowing pieces of carbon on the piston. Try working the snot out of that thing and blowing some of the carbon out. Also, setting the idle speed as low as you can sometimes helps also.
 

You can also get rid of built up carbon on the pistons and valves by letting the engine ingest a little water while at half throttle and fully warmed up. The water turns to steam and the carbon breaks off readily.

Tom
 
(quoted from post at 00:00:34 03/01/18)
You can also get rid of built up carbon on the pistons and valves by letting the engine ingest a little water while at half throttle and fully warmed up. The water turns to steam and the carbon breaks off readily.

Tom

Be careful with that. you could end up hydrolocking the engine a breaking something.

As an alternative, I have used an additive like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel in small engines, in a larger ratio than what is recommended on the package, to clean the inside of the combustion chamber and it has worked well.
 
(quoted from post at 05:46:16 03/01/18)
(quoted from post at 00:00:34 03/01/18)
You can also get rid of built up carbon on the pistons and valves by letting the engine ingest a little water while at half throttle and fully warmed up. The water turns to steam and the carbon breaks off readily.

Tom

Be careful with that. you could end up hydrolocking the engine a breaking something.

As an alternative, I have used an additive like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel in small engines, in a larger ratio than what is recommended on the package, to clean the inside of the combustion chamber and it has worked well.

A mist of water sprayed into the carburetor intake is an old time tried and true method for carbon removal. Just squirt it in with a spray bottle with it running. Don't use Sean's garden hose, LOL.
 

You posted the tractor was recently acquired but you have fresh gas in it. Is it fresh or did you simply top off the tank...? Is it possible the previous owner added ATF or other upper cylinder lube oil to the gas....perhaps some diesel by mistake?

I would suggest draining the tank and filling with 89 or 91 octane fuel. That should cure the dieseling at idle/shut off and the knock at load. If so, go ahead and use the tractor. Dieseling or knock on higher grade gasoline indeed, indicates other problems, carbon, improper spark plugs, over heating, etc.

Dieseling at idle/shutoff is some what common. Allowing the engine to idle for several seconds before shutting off also helps to prevent the condition. Set the timing and idle speed at the recommended specs. The idle mixture screw should also be adjusted to obtain best idle. You are looking for the throttle plate to be in it's most closed position; retarding the timing can require a more open throttle plate resulting in dieseling.

Once the timing and idle is set correctly the tractor should run on 87 octane gasoline without problems.
 
First things first.

Verify that the ignition timing is properly set and that the spark plugs are correct.

Set the idle speed to specs.

Post back.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 09:22:12 03/01/18) First things first.

Verify that the ignition timing is properly set and that the spark plugs are correct.

Set the idle speed to specs.

Post back.

Dean

And check the radiator for clean fins, front to back, you need to see daylight through the fins... so flush them out with a hose, but dont BEND the fins closed or you will have more problems.... check thermostat for correct operation,,, pull and check plugs for carbon build up, check carburetor and manifold for vacuum leaks and/or running lean condition.. check for correct advance on the distributor at higher rpms and or retarded timing. And.. for crappy old gas that is mostly varnish.... excessive oil consumption will do this as well, so a fresh oil change with an HD diesel oil will help clean the rings up a bit in most cases and reduce oil consumption.
 
Thank you all for the reply?s
I should have given more info to start with
Brought the 5000 home on Monday
Right off the bat I gave it an oil change with 15-40 diesel oil, drained
the fuel tank and carb bowl, added 5 gallons of fresh 87 I bought over
the weekend. Also put in a new battery and new 1/0 cables I threw
together as the old ones were toast. Have to rebuild the 10-SI
alternator as it is putting out 16.8 volts at idle so that?s disconnected
at the moment.
Radiator looks to be in great shape, not bent or damaged, good
airflow through it. I will see if I can pull a couple plugs tomorow and
see how they look, I just couldn?t get to it today
If they look fairly sooted up I shall give it the mist steam clean and
report back.
Can anyone point me to some factory specs for setting the distributor
timing from scratch, just so I can be restarted on a factory note.
Will pull the carb and make sure it?s not gummed up, also should
reset the carb to factory specs as well. The ? gentleman? I purchased
it from let it sit for a couple of years on and off. I?m actually surprised
it would run when he tried to start it. After the fresh gas it went from
5-10 seconds of cranking, to less than 2 seconds to fire up
 
(quoted from post at 20:20:48 03/01/18) Thank you all for the reply?s
I should have given more info to start with
Brought the 5000 home on Monday
Right off the bat I gave it an oil change with 15-40 diesel oil, drained
the fuel tank and carb bowl, added 5 gallons of fresh 87 I bought over
the weekend. Also put in a new battery and new 1/0 cables I threw
together as the old ones were toast. Have to rebuild the 10-SI
alternator as it is putting out 16.8 volts at idle so that?s disconnected
at the moment.
Radiator looks to be in great shape, not bent or damaged, good
airflow through it. I will see if I can pull a couple plugs tomorow and
see how they look, I just couldn?t get to it today
If they look fairly sooted up I shall give it the mist steam clean and
report back.
Can anyone point me to some factory specs for setting the distributor
timing from scratch, just so I can be restarted on a factory note.
Will pull the carb and make sure it?s not gummed up, also should
reset the carb to factory specs as well. The ? gentleman? I purchased
it from let it sit for a couple of years on and off. I?m actually surprised
it would run when he tried to start it. After the fresh gas it went from
5-10 seconds of cranking, to less than 2 seconds to fire up

Soot or lack of on the spark plugs is not an indication of presence or absence of carbon deposits. If, after eliminating other potential causes you still have significant knock, you should get an endoscope for $20.00 and take a look down inside the cylinders
 

Yes, you sure can de-carbon an engine with water, BUT..it had better be UP to operating Temp and running at about 1/2 throttle..

The water will turn to Steam in the cylinders and steam clean them..

Pump the water in (if an Up-draft carb, you will need to use a pump type oil can to get the water to Spray into the air-stream..)...

I saw a man do this to his Chrysler V-8..Set the engine on the "High Idle" step, and he slowly poured that water in from a drinking glass..

I don't think there was any steam visible out the exhaust..

Ran good afterward..
 
I have been having a horrid time trying to find what spec for the timing is, can anyone point me in the direction I?m looking for.??
 
Thank you very much
When I get home from Wyoming where I?m at for work for a few days
I will work on that
 

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