4600 Fuel Pump

Jacob59

Member
I have a diesel 1976 4600 that is seeping fuel from the throttle body on top of pump. I would prefer to remove the pump and repair it in my shop rather than on the tractor. My question is what are the disadvantage's of this. Will I screw up the timing of the pump and have to bleed the system if I remove it? Thanks in advance.
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(quoted from post at 11:52:39 02/22/18) I have a diesel 1976 4600 that is seeping fuel from the throttle body on top of pump. I would prefer to remove the pump and repair it in my shop rather than on the tractor. My question is what are the disadvantage's of this. Will I screw up the timing of the pump and have to bleed the system if I remove it? Thanks in advance.

You should get a service manual if you don't already have one. The original Ford service manual and the I&T aftermarket service manual both cover removing the pump.

You will not mess up the timing if you do not try to turn the engine while the pump is removed. There is an alignment dowel which only allows it to go back on in one orientation. That keeps the timing correct.

You will have to bleed the system once you reinstall the pump, the same as when you replace the fuel filter.
 
I did the O-rings to my Ford 4000 on the tractor. Really wasn't that hard to do. My tractor has a loader on it, so I raise it all the way up. My tractor is also 4x4, so I was working around a big tire. Again, really wasn't that hard to do.

Wayne in VA
 
Personally I prefer to remove pumps for what you're talking about, although not everyone does. The big thing to remember is that you take note of the index marks on the adapter plate relative to the scribe line on the pump ear nearest in your pic. Put it back where it was when you reinstall. Otherwise, carefully remove the three bolts in the pump drive gear and unbolt the pump. It's that simple. The gear should remain indexed even if the engine is bumped, although I'd not recommend that...
Also be careful to note the governor spring positions on the pump tombstone before you remove them... and be careful to get the shutoff bar back in place when reinstalling.

Rod
 
The main disadvantage to removing the pump is time. I've re-sealed many of those covers with the pump remaining on the engine. It's really not that difficult, and you don't gain much by removing the pump and doing it on the bench. The only caution I would give you is to make sure that the pump is as clean as you can make it before you start taking lines off, etc. Equally important is the area just above the pump in the area of the intake manifold. You don't want any crap that is laying up there to fall inside the pump when you have the cover off.
 
Thanks guys. Yes I have a tech manual. Still pretty cold here in Mo. and rather bench fix it.. But can field dress it I guess.
Jack
 
Easy to do w/ alittle instructions.. either on or off the engine.. your call.
Just MAKE SURE to clean the area well AND have ALL your parts in hand..
DONT WAIT to order them.. things get lost & procedures get forgotten..
ONE THING> the mounting oring does NOT come in the kit.. BE SURE & get one..
The pump is "master keyed" w/ a dowel in the front gear.. you cant mess it up..
AND on the corner of the pump mounting flange is a TIMING LINE..
THAT lines up w/ degree marks on the engine block.. They're prob. painted over 50x but they're there..
NORMALLY the pump line is lined up w/ 0* on the block..
IF you need any help, just send me an email.. put, at aol dot com after my screen name..in your mail server.
 

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