Re: Re: I think it just doesn't like snow!

Lynn Patrick

Well-known Member
Tractor is definitely allergic to snow! It snowed again. Tractor ran for about 15-20 minutes & died! All I did was drive it out where it could see the new snow!
(Actually I think that after a little use this new condenser is no better than the old one.)
I am now officially shopping for electronic ignition.
 
if it sputtered , coughed and hiccupped most likely a fuel problem. if it just went dead ,like turning the key off, most likely electrical. opinion based on my past experiences. or it do not like snow. :)
 
Have you ever tried REC fuel. They sell it around
here in the middle of the mitten. It?s 90 octane and
is made for lawn mowers, snowmobiles, atv?s
anything that you use once in awhile. It doesn?t cost
that much more. I started running it in lawnmowers
and the 3020 and it?s made a big difference.
 
Thanks for the responses.
Tractor didn't hiccup, cough, sputter or ice. Just shut off like I turned the switch, same as before!
Any suggestions where to find the best place for electronic Ignition?
 
don't know what model of tractor you have, but i have a 3400 and it would die just like that and when id try to restart it, it would start and die the second you let go of the key switch...problem was in the key switch, changed it out and works good now
 
Most common brand seems to be Pertronix. I've
have a Pertronix EI in my '67 Mustang for over 20
years. Bought one for a 5000, but haven't installed it
yet. This site sells them.
 
(quoted from post at 11:27:21 02/18/18) Thanks for the responses.
Tractor didn't hiccup, cough, sputter or ice. Just shut off like I turned the switch, same as before!
Any suggestions where to find the best place for electronic Ignition?

Before you condemn the points, try by-passing the switch.
 
Went back and read your previous posts. Did you make sure the gas cap vent was clear? What happens when you try to restart? Do you have spark? Check the coil as sometimes the winding separates when the coil heats up and causes it to fail temporarily. Check the distributor for any points of wear which may cause a short. As was suggested check the key switch as it is a common problem.If you have spark, then run it until it stops and check the fuel flow to the carb, open the drain and let it drain for five minutes, watching the flow. If you don't have good continuous flow the start at the tank and make sure all the screens and filters are clear from the tank to carb. You may have to pop open the carb to make sure the float is not sticking closed. Search the archives of this site for threads regarding the same issue. Not to be a smart a--, unless you have money to throw at your tractor I would do all I could to diagnose the problem. Hope you find the problem, they can be frustrating.
 
3000 gas. No spark when it dies. It can cool for several days & still no spark. I replaced the condenser & it ran great the first time. The next time I started it (couple days later) it started & ran great, then died just like before, just like you turned off the switch. Switch is good, coil is good, points are good, good gas in the tank, good NGK plugs, new wires. After all I have done to it I am convinced the condenser went bad again.
Anyway, a Pertronix is ordered!
Thanks for all the replies! By the time I get all the bugs out of this thing it will be Spring so no more snow for it to sneeze at!
 
(quoted from post at 19:02:31 02/19/18) 3000 gas. No spark when it dies. It can cool for several days & still no spark. I replaced the condenser & it ran great the first time. The next time I started it (couple days later) it started & ran great, then died just like before, just like you turned off the switch. Switch is good, coil is good, points are good, good gas in the tank, good NGK plugs, new wires. After all I have done to it I am convinced the condenser went bad again.
Anyway, a Pertronix is ordered!
Thanks for all the replies! By the time I get all the bugs out of this thing it will be Spring so no more snow for it to sneeze at!

and please tell what does "switch is good" mean to you?
 
and please tell what does "switch is good" mean to you?[/quote]

showcrop, thanks for your help. When the tractor dies I still have juice at the points. I really have checked this out thoroughly & the only thing that corrects the problem is to replace the condenser. I am just tired of new condensers not being good from the start or not lasting beyond a couple hours!
 
Where are you buying all these bad condensers? I buy twenty new
condensers a year and have never had a bad one.
 

I had the same problem with a 600 Ford it turned out to be the Coil I replaced it and have not had a problem since
 
tractorguy, from this site & from local parts house.
dannyidp, I've already replaced the coil w/one I knew was good.
Like I said, "I really have checked this out thoroughly & the only thing that corrects the problem is to replace the condenser."
Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 11:35:10 02/20/18) tractorguy, from this site & from local parts house.
dannyidp, I've already replaced the coil w/one I knew was good.
Like I said, "I really have checked this out thoroughly & the only thing that corrects the problem is to replace the condenser."
Thanks!

Well I will be interested to hear how it works out. It just seems like whenever someone has this problem part of the trouble shooting is to run a jumper from the battery to the coil.
 
If it is burning up coils I would suspect too little resistance in the coil primary circuit. Either it needs a ballast resistor and doesn't have one, or the ballast resistor is shorting inside, or the primary of the coil itself has some internal shorts.
 

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