How do I test power steering cylinders? (long)

Royse

Well-known Member
Original, welded type, Ford power steering cylinders.
Two steel brake line type fittings in the rear end of the cylinder.
I have three of them and suspect they all have bad internal seals as
they don't work. Not even when disconnected from the steering linkage.

At least one of them (maybe more) will move when disconnected
from the steering linkage if I help it get started moving by hand
but it moves quite slowly. None of them leak externally. The lines
to them are new, not restricted, clogged or kinked. Pressure
measures about 700 PSI on gauge rigged to the line.

I have an aftermarket PS cylinder that attaches with hoses.
One hose at the front of the cylinder, one at the rear.
When I hook it up to my steering control valve, it works fine, so it's
not the valve. If the tie rod bolts on that cylinder were long enough
to reach through the radius rod and the steering rod, I would use
it, but they're too short and are welded on. Not easily replaceable.

What else can I do to prove the cylinders need to be rebuilt?
Would the pressure and the aftermarket cylinder working fine
be enough proof for you to spend the money on having one of
them rebuilt to find out?

I do not have an easily adaptable external hydraulic source,
but air pressure is an option up to 175 PSI.

If the worst comes to worst, I guess I could hook them one at
a time to one of my tractors with working power steering.
I didn't want to take those tractors down to test on right now.
Not to mention introducing moist air. Maybe when spring gets here.
 
I believe you can test them like a loader cylinder by capping one line and apply pressure to other line. If its an internal leak the cylinder rod will move.
 
I've worked on my share of Fords with that POS steering system. While I've re-sealed my share of those cylinders before, not once have I ever
seen them fail internally, so I really doubt that you have 3 bad ones. Are you sure you're isolating them when doing the testing?
 
One way to test if it's leaking internally would be to leave one side disconnected completely and power just the other side. If the cylinder does not move and fluid comes out the other side then there's an internal leak past the piston. If the cylinder does not move but no fluid comes out the other side, then I would suspect your pump or something else in the circuit.
 
I believe that Sean and Bern's ideas will work.

If you have your cylinder(s) rebuilt, please let me know where you sent them, the results and the cost. I've a couple that I plan to have rebuilt for my 64, 4000 retirement project.

Dean
 
Thanks for the ideas guys, I'll see what I can come up with.
Unhooking a line and/or plugging one side is easy enough.

Bern, what do you mean by isolating them?
Also, I didn't mean to say all of them I have are bad.
I have 10 or 12 of them, I suspect these three may be bad.

Will let you know if I do Dean.
 
I dont know anyone thet does it but I believe a good lathe and welder man can make it look like its never been touched. Some aftermarket cylinders only have orings on the piston. When they wear out i would just scrap it although I dont know the life expectancy of those type.
 
"You test only one cylinder at a time by plugging the lines going to the cylinder that you are NOT testing."

Thanks Bern. One of my tractors has a home brew PS system
that only has a cylinder on one side. I can test them on that
tractor since I know it works fine with a good cylinder on it.
It will be a pain and a mess, but better than wasting money.
 

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