need help again! Swapped in new coil and now no spark 3000

greymond

Member
gasser 3000
I ordered a new coil for this Ford 3000 and put it in today and now no start and I think no spark ( I grounded the plug wire and I couldn't see a spark) It fired up prior to the swap so I dont know what is going on? Maybe the photos below show some kind of problem? Pretty sure I wired it correctly.
The red wire goes over to the solenoid.
The black wire goes to the distributor
and the yellow wire goes across to the generator


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Looks wired correctly to me. What is wrong is that it was running & then you "worked" on it & now it doesn't run. Verify voltages on the two coil terminals relative to ground. Ign on as well as when cranking.
 
I usually try not to mess with things that are running. However, this rig was hard hard starting and backfired and spit as it warmed up. The coil I pulled off was the original from what I can tell. I figured it was time. In addition to that the posts on the coil were frozen and the wiring was a day away from breaking off completely.
I ran out of day today so tomorrow I'll head out with a multi meter and see what voltage is where.
 
(quoted from post at 21:13:16 02/05/18) I usually try not to mess with things that are running. However, this rig was hard hard starting and backfired and spit as it warmed up. The coil I pulled off was the original from what I can tell. I figured it was time. In addition to that the posts on the coil were frozen and the wiring was a day away from breaking off completely.
I ran out of day today so tomorrow I'll head out with a multi meter and see what voltage is where.
e have probably all been there at one time or another. You may find a small 12v bulb more helpful that a voltmeter. You can see on/off, brightness quite well.
 
The red wire goes over to the solenoid.
The black wire goes to the distributor
and the yellow wire goes across to the generator

That yellow wire should go to the the key switch "run" terminal. Nothing related to the ignition circuit should go directly to the generator. The generator should only be connected to the voltage regulator and ground.
 
well, I am pretty sure that yellow wire runs over to the generator. It may splice in there where I cant see it and runs to the voltage reg. Not sure. But you are sure it is no suppose to be wired to the coil? I looked in the book and it doesn't show it wire to the coil either. However, That is where is was when i pulled it and the rig has been running
for decades like that.
 
(quoted from post at 21:50:11 02/05/18) can i hook up the the 12v light to the wire from the distributor to the coil? Or where?
ook at both places, i.e., both the coil terminal connected to distributor as well as the other coil terminal.
The other bulb terminal to chassis ground. Post observations and I'll try to interpret your findings.
 
here are the numbers on the old and new coil. The black coil is the new one.. Looks good? I think so?

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wow. Pulled the points.. burned.
This is the correct coil for this rig according to yesterdays tractors and it is within spec. What on earth?

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Although these tractors have the resistor wire my brother was having problems with his 3400, a new non resistor coil from this site didn't help so we installed the NAPA resistor coil that's recommended for 6 - 12 volt conversions.
Tractor runs fine with that coil.
 
Burnt generally means bad connection or current too high. Your meter appears capable of measuring DC current, so when powering coil , connect the meter as ammeter between the other coil terminal and ground & read coil current. No distributor wire connected. IC14SB coil.
 


put in a new set of points and the new coil and cleaned up all the wiring and it sparks. However, it fires then idles very slowly and when I apply throttle it dies.
At least it is firing.
At this point I am pretty sure the carb is kaput. Something I anticipated when I got the tractor.
 
In the pictures of the burned points, is that washer on the stud metallic of fiber/plastic. If not metallic, that was probably the bad connection that burned it up.
 
i think it is metallic
I did find an exposed section of the distributor wire just inside the distributor where you couldn't see it unless you took the cap off.
Interesting though it was fine with the old coil. But when I swapped in the new coil thats where things went to hell.
Still don't know exactly what happened
 

Is the fuel sediment bowl still on the tractor?
That was another issue we had with my brothers, there's a filter inside the sediment bowl that looks like a bunch for thin wafer disc, it screws in.
His was nearly plugged, tractor would start and run a little and then die.
 

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