Ford 860 remote hydraulic log splitter fail

I have an 860 runs and works well. Attached 3 pt log splitter run by factory single spool dual action valve in front of seat. Has been used previously and has worked well. Recently developed issue cylinder slowed and lost splitting power. Would reverse a bit and resume full power sometimes. Many times cylinder would not reverse direction and other times will only reverse when direction was changed immediately and not from stop. When the cylinder moves slow then there is no splitting power, when it's full speed it will power through the knurliest stuff. Hoses connections and couplers have been checked for leaks or blockages. Cylinder no visible leaks and no scoring or problem on cylinder shaft.
Removed valve body to find flattened O-rings and 1 with a considerable divot. Replaced them no improvement. Valve no scoring and clean, O-rings in place with no notable wear or problem. Fresh fluid full, No excessive heat noticed anywhere.
Any help comment criticism will be welcome. Lot's of wood to split!!

I can't help you much here.
But I might try putting a pressure gage on it
and see what kind if pressure your system is
making.
A good pump should make 2500 psi with lesser
pressure as the pump wears/ages. A cheap gauge
is available from this site or somewhere like
Northern equipment. Maybe Harbor Fright too.
The only other thing I can suggest is convert
to natural fas or propane - wink.

Kind of an interesting problem as these tractors never really had the hydraulic specs to run a 3 pt splitter efficiently. You also must have one of your helpers on the lever. I'd need the lever close to the wedge working alone. My 640 has the double spool, so does the 3600, both are kind of slow, depending on what you are running.

However, given it was working well enough for you, and what you describe, there has to be something, you'll need to do as Jerry suggests, see what you have.

What I am wondering is if there is a pto pump and reservoir that could be used on one of these tractors with a 3 pt splitter, much better specs and probably a lot more efficient. I like a self contained, conventional splitter, but many like the 3 point ones so they can move to the work, wherever it is, in the woods etc.

You may have a problem inside the cylinder. Sometimes that nut that holds the piston to the rod will loosen allowing oil to leak by. When the piston pushes itself to the proper place against the rod it will seal and work fine until the piston moves on the rod again.

Mark

Thanks guys for the responses.
I didn't know what the pressure should be but will check now! I gathered due to inconsistent behavior (working not working, work again) I somewhat ruled out pressure.
I have a natural gas well about 1/2 mile away but not available to me, Propane price terrible. I burn oil in my house and quite efficiently. this is one of those deals where I'm trying to help my son who lives in his grandmothers house. Yea I know! Their our kids.
Although it did not work as efficiently as a store bought modular splitter, It sort of impressed me as to how well it did work. I had rigged a long handle to the valve that was easily reached at the wedge. Before this issue popped up we had split a triaxle load of logs earlier with no issues. That when the chainsaws were broke!! Oh yea and the 8n would 't run to haul split wood to the house. Brighter side, the saws and 8n all run good now.
As far as the Cylinder I had considered that but have a limited knowledge and hope to rule other stuff before I dug in. The cylinder was previously a lift cylinder on a loader, Travel is slightly short but keep a block handy to help finish the stroke.
Thanks again that gives me a few places to focus on.

I probably won't go to deep, because in the bone yard there looks to be enough pieces to assemble another splitter, pump, valve body, cylinders. Previous life for some of this was a tow behind splitter that had a separate power unit.
My father in law didn't throw anything away!!! Would like to find a PTO pump though. We have 4 tractors with good PTO! Just need to get through this season for fire wood and then fabricate something for next year

They made that much pressure new? Mine has to be awful tired then, without a gauge just compared to the other tractors, my 960 must be around 1700#.

Paul

(quoted from post at 19:35:32 02/02/18) They made that much pressure new? Mine has to be awful tired then, without a gauge just compared to the other tractors, my 960 must be around 1700#.

Paul

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You are never going to see full pump pressure on a gauge unless you dead head the pump. The maximum you'll see on the gauge otherwise is whatever pressure the relief valve opens at.

(quoted from post at 06:25:38 02/03/18)

(quoted from post at 19:35:32 02/02/18) They made that much pressure new? Mine has to be awful tired then, without a gauge just compared to the other tractors, my 960 must be around 1700#.

Paul

Click to expand...

You are never going to see full pump pressure on a gauge unless you dead head the pump. The maximum you'll see on the gauge otherwise is whatever pressure the relief valve opens at.

Click to expand...

Where would be the best place for the gauge? Also is there any type of breather or vent, or does it vent into the reservoir?

I had the same problem with mine and I found the couplers were not letting fluid pass by because the plunger for the hydraulic connection had backed off some how an it was not opening the ball on the coupler to allow enough fluid to operate properly. I am talking about the hydraulic couplers on the hoses that connect to the tractor.

Floyd

(quoted from post at 02:23:24 02/04/18) I had the same problem with mine and I found the couplers were not letting fluid pass by because the plunger for the hydraulic connection had backed off some how an it was not opening the ball on the coupler to allow enough fluid to operate properly. I am talking about the hydraulic couplers on the hoses that connect to the tractor.

Floyd

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Floyd, I have a suspect coupler, one that had stayed loaded even after relieving pressure at the valve and it would load when acting up and wasn't when it worked right. I will be headed there first later today. This issue started not long after a hose change. Thought it was loaded but maybe just stuck. After believing it was loaded pointed back me back to valve body.
Thanks for the clue.

(quoted from post at 02:23:24 02/04/18) I had the same problem with mine and I found the couplers were not letting fluid pass by because the plunger for the hydraulic connection had backed off some how an it was not opening the ball on the coupler to allow enough fluid to operate properly. I am talking about the hydraulic couplers on the hoses that connect to the tractor.

Floyd

Click to expand...

Floyd,
Just as you described retainer in coupling had gone askew. Replaced coupler put her back to work. Has run about 6 hrs with no issues. Many thanks to all for your input. Always prefer a simple repair!
Eric