Ford 641 Grind!

mcg1238

Member
This tractor is going to be the death of me. I changed all the fluids because of gas in the oil. Then I rebuilt carb. It had issues running so I re adjusted float. Then once it was perfect it wouldn't start. So I changed the bendix on the starter... this is all per y'alls help!!!

Now I go out to use it today after it sat for a month or two because of all these issues and it won't go into far without grinding.I can force it and then the tractor starts moving but I don't want to-do that to many times... When it's off I can shift it fine.

This wasn't an issue when I bought it... wth!!
 
Sounds like a stuck clutch. If you can get it running while in gear, folks bypass the starter button most of the time, keep the clutch depressed while its moving and stomp the brakes. Sometimes several times and it should break free. You will know because tractor will stop moving.
 
Sound like the clutch is sticking. Bet you didn't block down the clutch for the couple of months it sat. If you can get it in and go while driving slip the clutch a few times and it might be enough
to get the rust off if not remove the starter and with a bent starw spray some BP Blaster on the backside of the flywheel with the clutch pedal blocked down. Rotate the engine while you spray. Give
it a couple of day than give it a try. if ok than block the pedal down when not in use.

Kirk
 
As Robcons says depress the clutch if you can get it moving in gear and tap the brakes to free it up. Then slip the clutch a few times to try and clean it off a
little.
 
So if I can force it into gear after starting it in neutral (it would have to be reverse), press down on clutch and begin to mash brakes over and over?

If that doesn't work is there other options other than splitting the tractor? Is lubricant on flywheel really okay (PB Blaster)?.


(quoted from post at 13:15:55
01/30/18) Sound like the clutch is sticking. Bet you didn't block down the clutch for the couple of months it sat. If you can get it in and go while driving slip the clutch a few times and it might be enough
to get the rust off if not remove the starter and with a bent starw spray some BP Blaster on the backside of the flywheel with the clutch pedal blocked down. Rotate the engine while you spray. Give
it a couple of day than give it a try. if ok than block the pedal down when not in use.

Kirk
 
(quoted from post at 06:23:49 01/31/18) So if I can force it into gear after starting it in neutral (it would have to be reverse), press down on clutch and begin to mash brakes over and over?

If that doesn't work is there other options other than splitting the tractor? Is lubricant on flywheel really okay (PB Blaster)?.


(quoted from post at 13:15:55
01/30/18) Sound like the clutch is sticking. Bet you didn't block down the clutch for the couple of months it sat. If you can get it in and go while driving slip the clutch a few times and it might be enough
to get the rust off if not remove the starter and with a bent starw spray some BP Blaster on the backside of the flywheel with the clutch pedal blocked down. Rotate the engine while you spray. Give
it a couple of day than give it a try. if ok than block the pedal down when not in use.

Kirk


NO NO don't do any mashing. Start it up in neutral, get it warmed up, then start it with it in first gear. Then drive it in first to the top of a hill, then shut it off and put it in 4th. Then start it again with the help of the slope. Drive it around up and down small hills with the clutch pedal depressed, stabbing on the brakes.
 
(quoted from post at 09:45:18 01/31/18)
I never have this issue with my SOS. 8) :lol:

Who knows for sure? If the tractor never had a reason to need to slip the torque limiting clutch you would never know. If it had ever had a need to it might not have slipped when it should have.

I'm wondering if that might be a contributing factor to the input splines stripping on them after a lot of years. Maybe the TLC was stuck and the owner tried to do something that put too much stress on it and the TLC didn't slip when it should have?
 
PB Blaster dries fast,loosens rust. I've broke them free using
it then I used to spray afterwards with brake or carb cleaner.
Years later found out didn't need them cause it works fine
Without them.
 
(quoted from post at 07:21:20 01/31/18) PB Blaster dries fast,loosens rust. I've broke them free using
it then I used to spray afterwards with brake or carb cleaner.
Years later found out didn't need them cause it works fine
Without them.

Sounds good. Thank you. I will try the brake deal first. I can't start it in gear though. the only way to get into gear is to grind/force. I don't want to do that however. I could use remote starter but i don't know where to hook up to bypass ignition and push button.
 
(quoted from post at 12:09:55 01/31/18) . I could use remote starter but i don't know where to hook up to bypass ignition and push button.

Hook one end to small S terminal on solenoid. Hook other end to a good ground.
 
Fixed. Warmed her up and the got it into gear. Stabbed brakes and unstuck it. Got a large rock sitting on clutch peddle now... Any more reasonable ways to keep clutch pressed?

Thanks all for the help!!! Love this forum.

(quoted from post at 07:21:20 01/31/18) PB Blaster dries fast,loosens rust. I've broke them free using
it then I used to spray afterwards with brake or carb cleaner.
Years later found out didn't need them cause it works fine
Without them.
 
Just cut a wedge out of a 2x4 piece of wood and wedge it down where the rear radius mounts. Here's one on my '39 9n. not the same but you get the idea.
<a href="https://imgur.com/o9wOJfE">
o9wOJfEh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>
 

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