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ford tractor 401 eng rebuild

It's no different than a 201 or 256/268 except it has more cylinders. The main difference is a wee bit more piston-to-bore clearance on #6 hole.
 
Nope - get yourself a manual. Ford Basildon engines are not rocket science.

I would lean towards sleeving a 401 just because of the propensity of this engine to pinhole. See further discussion below about cavitation.
 
It could be in the harmonics working the metal. I used to have a VW diesel pickup that had about a 3 lb weight bolted to about a 10 inch long piece of metal that was bolted to the inside of the aluminum front bumper at one end. I believe it soaked up the vibration to keep the bumper from putting out harmonics.
I think I might try that trick to keep my exhaust stack from vibrating.
 


As Bern said get a shop manual. I got mine from on line manuals, around $75.00. I am very happy with it. Be aware that when new it had either red, blue or plain bearings. They are slight variations from standard. You will need to use plenty of Plasti-gauge to get the correct clearances.
 
Wow! I just spent a lot of money on this ford tw 35 and now I find out that the engines are no good on top of having the axle break! What a disappointment! Now that I'm getting all the problems fixed, should I sell it or keep it?
 

Keep it, add some conditioner to the coolant, if and when it pinholes you can decide on what you want to do then.
Unless you know the tractors history it may have already been sleeved.
It could get a pinhole next week, it could be years before it happens.
 
Not sleeving a 401 is a serious roll of the dice in my opinion, especially if it's a later one. And, it's pretty easy to tell if it's been sleeved in the past once it's been apart.
 
The broken axle was either a fluke or abuse. As for the engine, keep the coolant additives in it and keep your fingers crossed. Oh, and don't turn it up.
 
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