Adding Lights to the 2000

Ford 2000; 3 cyl. gas; 4/1 trans..... The headlights on my tractor were long ago ripped off leaving only the holes in the sides of the front nose cowling. I got a set of headlights and am ready to mount them but need some input on wire and fuse size. I'm assuming I would wire the units with one wire running back to the switch (is this the ground point?) and a second wire to the hot side of the battery with an in-line fuse and with that wire continuing to a second pole on the light switch. So, the current is interrupted by the switch with overload protection via the fuse. What gauge wire should I use and what amperage fuse?

At some time I want to add work lights to the rear of the tractor, either on the fenders or on the ROPS, and am hoping the same kind of wiring setup would work for those lights as well. Except, was thinking it would be useful to have a weatherproof toggle switch for the work lights on the back instead of running them thru the light switch on the dash.

Does this sound like a reasonable approach or a path to frying the tractor? Many thanks.

One wire to the lights, grounded through the sheet metal

So....hot wire to the switch from battery, wire from switch to lights (with in-line fuse) and ground is via the attachment of the lights to the cowling? What gauge wire and what size fuse? Thanks.

Last switch I replaced (7600), new switch came with a fuse and fuse holder as part of the pigtail. Never checked the amp rating. If
I remember right, it's 12 ga. wire... or maybe 14 ga. 12 ga. would be plenty big enough.

I put all new lights and wiring on my old 4000. 2 led's in the front, 1 pointing back. I used a "double pole double through" toggle switch. Up = front lights only. Middle = all off. Down = fronts and rear on together.

Look on the front of the engine around the radiator support braces for the original headlight wire sticking out of the wiring harness.

Does the 2000, 3 cylinder, have a fuse box somewhere? I've not see one but have not yet poked around under the dash very much. Thanks.

Originally one hot wire went from the battery to the key switch and another wire connected from the hot post on the key switch to the light switch. The key switch did not turn off power to the light switch. The light switch was a 1950's/1960's style automotive pull switch with 3 positions and 3 terminals. First position (pushed all the way in) was off. Second position (pulled out halfway) powered the instrument cluster illumination lamps and tail lamp. Third position (pulled all of the way out) powered the headlamps as well as the instrument illumination lamps and tail lamp.

The US made "C" serial numbered 3 cylinder thousand series tractors did not have a fuse in the lighting circuit. The only fuse was an in-line fuse in the line going to power the gauges and warning lights in the instrument cluster, and that fuse was in the wiring harness behind the instrument cluster.

The European made "A" and "B" serial number tractors had a 15 amp fuse holder built into the back of the light switch. After a certain point they stopped selling the original US style light switches so all replacements since then have had the fuse holder in the back of the light switch.