New electronic ignition and coil - no spark

67 ford 3400 gaser c prefix. I just installed a new pertonics electronic ignition and coil. Very straight forward and easy. However, I discovered a random wire coming down from a cluster near my battery tray. It can only reach my coil, distributor or maybe just reach the starter but not the solenoid. It is a constant hot wire with ignition in on position. None of my plugs have spark. Should it be hooked to my coil? I think it's a blueish color. My distributor also had an internal ground wire that is not mentioned in directions or manual but is attached to the new electronic ignition plate.

I have negative and positive from distributor to coil respective posts. I have wire from starter solenoid to positive side of coil. As far as I know this is exactly the same as it was unless I had a brain lapse.


On another note and maybe a new post, my alternator is wired right to my battery. Not sure this is right but tractor ran perfectly fine up until I replaced the points and coil.

Thanks for any help.
 
How many wires are currently connected to each of the two small posts on the coil and where do they go?

Does the coil already have power when the key is in the run position?
 
(quoted from post at 07:51:51 01/28/18) 67 ford 3400 gaser c prefix. I just installed a new pertonics electronic ignition and coil. Very straight forward and easy. However, I discovered a random wire coming down from a cluster near my battery tray. It can only reach my coil, distributor or maybe just reach the starter but not the solenoid. It is a constant hot wire with ignition in on position. None of my plugs have spark. Should it be hooked to my coil? I think it's a blueish color. My distributor also had an internal ground wire that is not mentioned in directions or manual but is attached to the new electronic ignition plate.

I have negative and positive from distributor to coil respective posts. I have wire from starter solenoid to positive side of coil. As far as I know this is exactly the same as it was unless I had a brain lapse.


On another note and maybe a new post, my alternator is wired right to my battery. Not sure this is right but tractor ran perfectly fine up until I replaced the points and coil.

Thanks for any help.
ost likely that unidentified wire is the wire I have added in green to the diagram. A resistance wire which your new coil may or may not need. If new coil needs no external resistor, then you must replace this resistance wire with a standard copper wire. The red module wire needs to be supplied with non-resistor wire. Coil could be supplied with either, depending on coil characteristics.
CC7YeZ4.jpg
 
As Sean said check for 12 volts at the coil when ign. is on,the Pertronics has to have full voltage,you may have a faulty connection.By 67 I think they were neg.
ground so that shouldn't be a problem from a wiring stand point.As far as your battery if someone put a one wire alternator on in the past you would have a direct
connection to the battery from it.
 
Sean; currently there are 3 wires. A negative from the distributor to the negative post, a positive from the distributor to the positive post and a positive wire from the Silonoid to the positive post (perhaps just a signal wire?). And obviously the main top wire from the coil to the center of the distributor. I will need to go check it for power again at the coil. I think it had 12.4 volts if I remember right. As far as I can remember that is exactly the way the old coil was hooked up as well.

Mike; Thanks, makes sense, the alternator looks fairly new so probably an aftermarket single wire. I wasnt sure if anything was lacking with the aftermarket hack job hooked up that way.

JMOR; Thank you SOOOOO much for that diagram. I was able to find nothing of the sort in my searches and my manual just has the standard diagram. The part that confuses me is this [i:076b48b2c7] "If new coil needs no external resistor, then you must replace this resistance wire with a standard copper wire".[/i:076b48b2c7] So i just swap out that wire for a new copper wire end to end?? and add a direct line the battery? _ sorry reading wiring diagrams confuses me for some reason. Now I wish I wouldn't have skipped that class to go hunting - well, maybe...

Thanks again guys!!
 
(quoted from post at 15:15:22 01/28/18) Sean; currently there are 3 wires. A negative from the distributor to the negative post, a positive from the distributor to the positive post and a positive wire from the Silonoid to the positive post (perhaps just a signal wire?). And obviously the main top wire from the coil to the center of the distributor. I will need to go check it for power again at the coil. I think it had 12.4 volts if I remember right. As far as I can remember that is exactly the way the old coil was hooked up as well.

Mike; Thanks, makes sense, the alternator looks fairly new so probably an aftermarket single wire. I wasnt sure if anything was lacking with the aftermarket hack job hooked up that way.

JMOR; Thank you SOOOOO much for that diagram. I was able to find nothing of the sort in my searches and my manual just has the standard diagram. The part that confuses me is this [i:feee0b9ef3] "If new coil needs no external resistor, then you must replace this resistance wire with a standard copper wire".[/i:feee0b9ef3] So i just swap out that wire for a new copper wire end to end?? and add a direct line the battery? _ sorry reading wiring diagrams confuses me for some reason. Now I wish I wouldn't have skipped that class to go hunting - well, maybe...

Thanks again guys!!
ot direct from battery. From same place as resistance wire,........ that is the ignition switch.
 
Got it. Can I splice it at the ignition wire going to the silonoid or do I need to run the copper wire all the way back to the ignition post?

So I just checked it and it has 12.5 volts to the post on the coil from the silonoid however only has 8.5 volts coming out of the coil.
 
(quoted from post at 16:12:33 01/28/18) Got it. Can I splice it at the ignition wire going to the silonoid or do I need to run the copper wire all the way back to the ignition post?

So I just checked it and it has 12.5 volts to the post on the coil from the silonoid however only has 8.5 volts coming out of the coil.
doubt it. Does that wire go hot when key in RUN position and go dead when off?
 
I replaced the wire and put new connectors on. I also took out the electronic ignition and tried to adjust it. They give you a piece of plastic to space it but it's not really adjustable the way it's set up so the space is too tight. That could be part of the problem. It's now backfiring into the carb but I probably have a spark plug wire in the wrong order. Will play again next weekend. Thaks for the help!
 

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