Ford Powermaster Fuel Shutoff Replacement?

Per Hansa · Jan 22, 2018

Looking through some of the archives, I see this is a popular topic, but I haven't been able to find exactly what I'm dealing with. Because of the fuel shutoff screw working it's way out (probably due to a bad rivet/pin) I am trying to replace the entire fuel shutoff valve. I assumed I'd be able to just pop the old one out, and replace it with the new one, but I don't have enough clearance above the valve cover to pull it all the way out (see picture).
My first thought was to remove the valve cover, but I don't think I have the clearance to do that either. So, I proceeded with a new plan to remove the tank altogether, but quickly learned that removing the hood to even get to the tank is turning into quite the project (numerous bolts/screws which are tough to access, a wiring harness attached to the headlamps which are attached to the hood, etc.).
So now I'm at a standstill, thinking there's got to be a better way to replace this little valve. Has anyone done this before? Do I really need to remove the tank in order to accomplish this??
I'd appreciate any help at all, thanks!
Tom, 801 (861) Powermaster
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto9443.jpg"/>

Andy Wickiser · Jan 22, 2018

It comes out without removing the fuel tank. Looks like your fuel line is still connected at the valve - you probably should have undone that first.

showcrop · Jan 22, 2018

You are right! it is easier without removing the sheet metal. The tank will lift up a little. At the front there is one screw with a spring over it. You should be able to raise the front a good 1/2 inch. You can also get a little by backing the rear screws out some, though they are tougher to get at. The front is easy. If you want more room still, just remove the valve cover. It just rolls out towards you. You should renew that gasket while you have it off, but it is not critical.

riveroadrat · Jan 22, 2018

It looks like your line is routed wrong, it should go to the front of the engine to keep it away from exhaust radiant heat, then back to the carb. I would screw the valve back in then remove the line.

showcrop · Jan 22, 2018

(quoted from post at 11:05:02 01/22/18) It looks like your line is routed wrong, it should go to the front of the engine to keep it away from exhaust radiant heat, then back to the carb. I would screw the valve back in then remove the line.

There are a lot of them that have been rerouted to the front, but both of mine and I'll bet 85% of all of them out there still go down through the manifolds just as they came from the factory, so I don't see that it can be called wrong, just personal preference.

Per Hansa · Jan 22, 2018

Showcrop, Andy, and riveroadrat....thanks for the replies! I'm going to take your advice and remove the fuel line first (a little worried about being able to get to it while still being attached to fuel tank--it's at an awkward spot on the back side of the valve), then loosen the tank to see if I can raise it enough to get the extra clearance I need. If that doesn't work, I'll see if I have enough room to remove that valve cover.
Thanks again guys, I'll post a follow up to let others know if these solutions worked out for me.
Tom

Dean · Jan 22, 2018

You can R & R the fuel valve without removing the sheet metal or doi8nig anything to the fuel tank. I've done it so many times that I spend more time R & Ring the gasoline than R & Ring the valve.

You will need to remove the fuel line from the valve in order to do so.

Dean

KCTractors · Jan 22, 2018

I found removing the muffler will let you get to the valve easier. Just my two cents!

Mission Creek · Jan 22, 2018

On my 4000 4 cylinder, I was able to slide it out with the fuel line removed. Getting in there to loosen and tighten the bolts was tough but easier than removing the sheet metal and tank.

Per Hansa · Jan 22, 2018

I got it, finally! I wish I would have used your all's expertise earlier--it would have saved me a lot of time.
I ended up not needing to loosen the tank in order to get more clearance. I'm sure there's several ways to skin this cat, but what worked best for me was to remove the muffler on the opposite side (loosened up the C-clamps, and it came right off). Thanks for that idea "KCtractors"!
Once that was out of the way, I had plenty of room to remove the fuel line from the shutoff valve, and the valve came right out. 5 minutes later and the new valve was in place with the fuel line reattached.
I had to quit for the day, so wasn't able to see it completely through. I still have to get the muffler reattached, and what tins I had already taken off put back on, but I'm hoping it'll fire up and I'll be back in business! Speaking of, the only thing that concerns me is wondering if I need to do anything with the fuel lines first--since the tank was completely dry, do I need to flush the lines in order to get any air out prior to trying to start, or should that not be an issue?
Thanks again guys, all of your inputs were extremely helpful! Here's a picture of the view from the back side, with the muffler removed.
Tom, Ford 861 Powermaster.

showcrop · Jan 22, 2018

(quoted from post at 17:39:23 01/22/18) I got it, finally! I wish I would have used your all's expertise earlier--it would have saved me a lot of time.
I ended up not needing to loosen the tank in order to get more clearance. I'm sure there's several ways to skin this cat, but what worked best for me was to remove the muffler on the opposite side (loosened up the C-clamps, and it came right off). Thanks for that idea "KCtractors"!
Once that was out of the way, I had plenty of room to remove the fuel line from the shutoff valve, and the valve came right out. 5 minutes later and the new valve was in place with the fuel line reattached.
I had to quit for the day, so wasn't able to see it completely through. I still have to get the muffler reattached, and what tins I had already taken off put back on, but I'm hoping it'll fire up and I'll be back in business! Speaking of, the only thing that concerns me is wondering if I need to do anything with the fuel lines first--since the tank was completely dry, do I need to flush the lines in order to get any air out prior to trying to start, or should that not be an issue?
Thanks again guys, all of your inputs were extremely helpful! Here's a picture of the view from the back side, with the muffler removed.
Tom, Ford 861 Powermaster.

I expect that a few guys will jump in here to try to get you to re-route the line around front. There are a few guys that subscribe to the vapor lock theory, which actually will only affect pumped fuel systems not gravity systems. I would flush it a little before attaching the line to the filter bowl, but no need to assist gravity, it will bring the fuel to the carburetor just fine on its own.

Per Hansa · Jan 22, 2018

Thanks Showcrop, that's good to hear! "Riveroadrat" mentioned moving the line toward the front. Makes a lot of sense, as the current configuration gets the fuel pretty close to the exhaust. At this point though, I'm looking to just get it going again as soon as possible. And since this was the configuration that Ford sent them out from the factory, I'm not overly concerned about it. Maybe in the future I'll consider that, along with removing the rivet/pin (the part that failed in the first place) with a brass screw--it sounds like the fuel shutoff valve is a recurring problem with this tractor. Thanks again, Tom.

Ford Powermaster Fuel Shutoff Replacement?

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