Hello alll,
I have a 68 Ford 2000 3 cyl gas. Having problems lately where I have to choke it to get it started, runs smooth for about 10 seconds then starts to die. Push the choke in, runs smooth again then wants to die. Back and forth game. Tried with the gas cap off and made a few small adjustments on carb with no luck. Thanks.
 
If you still have your original Holley carb, they are very sensitive to fuel pressure. Tee in a pressure gauge, without double checking in book I think it was 3-5 PSI. Also the alcohol in the gas drawing water is causing a lot of problems with the power valve corroding and sticking.
 
Starved for Gas? Carb maybe plugged up partially. Maybe time for a carb rebuild and good cleaning.

Fuel filter plugged?

Pull the plug from the bottom of the carb bowl and see if it'll fill pint jar in 30 seconds. If not plugged fuel tank or filter
 
There is no less than 3, often 4 fuel filters on that tractor.
First is atop the fuel tap on the bottom of the tank. Second is a screen on top of the fuel pump. Third is a screen in the sediment bowl behind the carb and lastly but not always, there's a scintered screen in the brass fitting where the fuel line goes into the carb.
 
When I get one of those Holleys I like to pretend I'm Tom Brady making a hail mary pass into the end zone - with a good hand mind you.
I give it my best heave into the nearest swamp, dumpster or scrap pile. Then I order a new Zenith from this site. They are pricy but will make your tractor RUN.
Also, clean all your filters as per my reply to Greymond below.
 
Start at the fuel tap in the bottom of the tank. Take a light and see if the screen has come dislodged from the tap inside the tank. Mine was. Found junk in the fuel tap after I took it off. Removed the junk, fished out the screen, put it back in the tap and reinstalled - problem fixed. The 2 most likely places for junk to clog the line if the screen is off is in the tap and in the screen on the top of the fuel pump. I almost never find junk in the fuel bowl filter.

John
 
Very good description, as well as the resulting outcome! I fought the Holley on my 3500 for several years, never could get it to run right. Had three different mechanics try helping me with it, no change. Finally bought a new Zenith carb from this site and it runs like a Swiss watch! If I ever have another Ford with the Holley carb, that will be my first step in ?fixing? it, not my last.........
 

Before you start cleaning filters, check for crud in the tank. If you see any you can clean it just by siphoning with a fairly large tube. I use a $2.99 transfer siphon from my local hardware store.
 
Oh no don?t you mean Case Keenum?! Hehe guess we?ll find out this afternoon. Thanks for the reply?s, I?ll check the tank and work my way to the carb.
 
A little update....
Checked everything between the petcock valve and the carburetor. The pencil filter had come off on valve but didn?t find any blockage or debris in line. The line out of the pump was a little wet but nothing dripping. Removed the carb and to the eyes, it looks clean but I?m sure inside there may be some gunk. I would love to put a zenith on the tractor but not sure if I can justify it at the moment. I will try to rebuild the carb and see how much grief it gives me.
 
Did you remove the cover on top of the pump to get at the screen?
About a 1/4" nut to remove it. I have seen them so packed with crud you wonder how it ran at all.
Hard to get at it but can be done if you pull the generator off.
Careful removing the cover. The seal likes to disintegrate.
 
There was a fair amount of debris under the screen. Some was packed in the corner of pump. I destroyed the seal, don?t think I could help it though, any idea where to get a new one? Maybe I should put the carb back on and try it out again before rebuilding.
 
Go to NAPA and get a roll of gasket material. Stuff I bought was black in color.

Cut out a new seal. Lay the pump lid on the material and cut around it with an xacto knife or razor blade, then cut the inner about 1/8 to 3/16 wide inside that outer circle. Last time I bought a pump I had to do this. The OEM gasket was crap and disintegrated in about a week. This homemade gasket has been working well since. And cheap.

The outside of the gasket has to fit inside the lip on the pump so you may have to trim it a bit for a good fit.

John
 
(quoted from post at 04:39:02 01/22/18) Go to NAPA and get a roll of gasket material. Stuff I bought was black in color.

Cut out a new seal. Lay the pump lid on the material and cut around it with an xacto knife or razor blade, then cut the inner about 1/8 to 3/16 wide inside that outer circle. Last time I bought a pump I had to do this. The OEM gasket was crap and disintegrated in about a week. This homemade gasket has been working well since. And cheap.

The outside of the gasket has to fit inside the lip on the pump so you may have to trim it a bit for a good fit.

John

It can be really tough to cut a gasket with even a razor knife because often the material wants to move. I trace around the outside with a pen then cut with shears. The old phart method is to put the part in a vice and hold the material over it, then tap tap tap around with a ball peen hammer to cut the material. All the old pharts claim that they have always done it this way but I kind of doubt it. I keep a paper punch in my tool chest for the screw holes unless the material too thick.
 
I just rebuilt a ford 2000 3 cylinder. After putting it back together I couldn't get it to idle. I found a leaky intake manifold gasket. After fixing that I still had a small problem of needing to choke it to much so I checked the float in the carburetor and found it to low which would result in running to lean. A quick check for you to see if your manifold gasket is leaking would be to get yourself a propane torch. Open the valve to let propane out but do not light it. Have someone start the tractor and place the torch around the intake. If you see that the tractor evens out you know you have a blown gasket which is very common. Good luck.
 

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