lift arm replacement

snead

Member
I need to replace the lower lift arms on my 1974 ford 4400 . Can anyone tell me how to get the connection at the bottom of the tractor where the lift arms bolt up to the tractor . There is a large castle nut with a cotter pin on one side which I removed and I cant get the shaft or bolt or whatever it is out ,On the opposite side of the shaft there is what looks like a 1"x1/2" rectangular protrusion that sticks out and I cant turn it or hammer it out I don't know if this bolt or shaft screws out or is supposed to just slide out there isn't much room under there so I really don't see how I could hammer it out. spent over $200 dollars on 3 point hitch lower lift arms that I cant connect. appreciate any help. :x
 
That pin is a larger diameter on the end opposite the castle nut so it must be driven out toward that side.It sounds like it is rusted in place so you will probably need to be patient and use lots of penetrating oil over several days and maybe a torch to heat it up enough to get it to loosen up.

Some folks say (I've never tried it myself) that heating it with a torch and then applying a stick of paraffin wax while it is hot will draw the paraffin in to places where penetrating oil might not make it.

Perhaps you could rig something up with a gear puller to put tension on the pin if you don't have enough room to bang on it.

If the old arms are already trashed you might consider torching them to get them out of the way to make it easier to get to the pin.
 
Thanks for the response, Just one thing I want to be sure of .do I hammer it out from the threaded castle nut side trying to push it out towards the wheel ? just want to be sure because I don't want to damage the threads. thanks
 

The pins rusted to the axle housing, had this problem last year.
Penetrating oil and time or heat.
I heated the bottom part of the housing while trying to turn to pin with a large adjustable wrench, as soon a the pin started moving I worked with it till it came out.
After the pins where out I let the pins and housing completely cool before cleaning and sanding the rust off for the pins to fit back into the housing by hand.
Don't plan to remove them again but I brushed a little anti-seize on the pins and housing for good measure.
 
Yes, you need to drive it from the end that had the castle nut so that it goes out the opposite side. Don't just bang on the end of the bare pin though. If you can find a nut that's the same size threads as the castle nut, screw that on a coupe of turns, but don't tighten it up and then bang on the nut so you don't damage the end of the pin.
 
I used a steel wedge to push those out on one of my 5610s. Penetrating oil, wedge, hammer and a board for shim between wedge and tractor.
 

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