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LED gauge lights

S

sammorgan3

Member
Bought a new gauge cluster for my '74 2000, why reuse the old rubber bulb bases when I've got a 3d printer?

https://imgur.com/a/ls7lh

Got to finish them up, going to solder in a diode to protect at least the charge warning light from reverse polarity, and add some dropping resistors to get the voltage down so the LEDs will be happy. Still haven't decided whether to use white or red for the warning lights, definitely white for the gauge lights. After soldering I'll pot everything in with epoxy to seal them up and make them solid. As long as I get the resistor values right to keep the voltage down at the LED then they should last basically forever anyway.
 
I bought a bunch of High intensity white light
"wedge?" LEDS on ebay 15 for $1 and soldered
wires to them. The advantage is THEY ARE BRIGHT
and no resistor needed for 12 volts. They make an old
gauge light up like new.
 
I like led and use em for everything I
can, however they usually don't have
enough resistance for a charge indicator
light
 
(quoted from post at 08:23:02 01/14/18) I like led and use em for everything I
can, however they usually don't have
enough resistance for a charge indicator
light
Click to expand...

I have a 10SI on the tractor, I thought their indicator swapped from ground at no charge to 12v while charging. That's what I've read about them anyway.
 

Did a little more reading, I see what you're talking about, a protection diode will stop the smoke from coming out.
 
Uploaded my 3d models to thingiverse just in case someone else with a printer wants these holders.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755866

Also decided to drive the LEDs with a L7805CV voltage regulator, keeps the power more stable than just a resistor in series with the varying voltage between battery and alternator. I'll just make up a little board and heat shrink it with some hot glue for water proofing and zip tie it to the back of the cluster.

Here's a schematic I whipped up. Sorry for the SmartDraw watermark, makes it difficult to read.

https://imgur.com/pYNds8m
 
(quoted from post at 04:27:38 01/16/18) I would add a 1uf Tantalum cap to both the input and output of your 7805.
Click to expand...

Yes sir. Though I was going to go with .33µf on input and .1µf ceramics on output. Shouldn't really be that much ripple anyway I wouldn't think.
 
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