Jona

Member
I have a early eight in ford in which the ring gear is slipping on the flywheel is there anyway I can fasten them together without turning the
tractor a part, The ring gear is new I just put it in but the guy that put it on the fly will did not shrink fit it and I do not want to tear the tractor
apart again please help ? Jack
 
Yes,I had the same problem and just took the starter off and spot welded the gear to the flywheel. On the old cars this was done all the time. Just keep the weld below the teeth so the Bendix won't drag or get stuck in the gear. Works great, no snags. Dave
 
Weld it on.
I fixed a 2N that was doing the same thing.
I pulled the starter and had my neighbor carefully hold the ground clamp onto the front pully.
Then I made 3 good tacks through the starter hole.
Worked good. If someone wants to they can always cut the welds back off - maybe 30.years from now if it needs a new clutch or something.
It is important to hold the groumd clamp on the front pully or the electricity will arc through the main bearings and ruin them and probably the crankshaft too.
 
I don't have a welder is there some other way that anyone knows of I appreciate your comments though thanks Jack
 
(quoted from post at 23:36:35 01/05/18) I don't have a welder is there some other way that anyone knows of I appreciate your comments though thanks Jack
ou asked & got the known alternative.........don't like it? Try Gorilla glue & let us know how that works.
 
The problem with "in tractor" repair other than welding is getting enough adhesive between the ring gear and flywheel to hold.

There is always the option of transporting your tractor to a welding shop or perhaps you have access to a mobile welding service.
 
On your 8N Tractor, if your "mechanic" got the ringgear on the flywheel without heating it, something is wrong, probably the wrong ringgear. there is a 1/16" difference between the diameters and no way is a cold ringgear going to slip over the cast iron flywheel without heating it up. Parts sold today vary on country of origin of manufactured although most come from Cheena now, the land where Quality Control doesn't exist. The original ringgear had a beveled edge on the ID on one side-this was the side that faced down upon installation. Now, most have that bevel (chamfer) on both ID's so installation doesn't matter. That doesn't mean the rest of the manufacturing is right. I worked in for a Tier 1 manufacturing company in Detroit starting in 1974. We machined completely Ford 6375 flywheels, turning, drilling/tapping/reaming, and assembled them with ringgears, balanced, boxed, and shipped all over the world to Ford Service warehouses. I was the NC Turning Department Supervisor and processed the machining on all of them. Since we are only small l company staring out, six people total, I processed and did all the turning. I still have several of the Ford flywheel and ringgear blueprints including the Ford N-Series tractor ones. If one for some reason had a ringgear slip on a flywheel and ended up glazing over the ringgear diameter on the flywheel, chances are real good it will never secure the ringgear. It's time for a new flywheel. I'm not all that warm and fuzzy about having to weld a ringgear on but know the flywheel is cast iron and the ringgear is tempered steel.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
If you have access to a torch heat the ring gear red hot in a small area let it cool repeat in another spot until the ring gear is tight.
 
You can clean it good with starting fluid to remove any oil film. Give it a little time to dry completely, then you can take a syringe with battery acid and drip it all the way around the flywheel, against the ring gear face. Leave the starter out and leave the tractor outside so moisture will get to the acid, the give it plenty of time to do its job. I did one that way and it worked until the tractor quit.
 
FIX IT RIGHT! The best fix is to remove flywheel and shrink or replace necessary parts with the right method to make it right. CAUTION: If you use cleaning solutions with the tractor still together(starting fluid, gasoline,...) then weld or heat in that area you could have an explosion shooting fire and heat out the starter opening with severe injury to persons working on it. IF I were to fix it without disassembly I would drill and thread for a 1/4 bolt from the front, angled slightly toward the center so the hole goes thru flywheel and flywheel gear. When you screw the bolt in, it will act as a dowel pin to stake the gear to the flywheel. Do this 3 or 4 times around the flywheel and you should have solved your problem. By the way, the flywheel is cast iron. The flywheel and flywheel gear are both drillable and threadable with good quality drill bit and tap.
 
Well here's what I decided to do for now I took a break cleaner and spray between the ring here and the flywheel and I left a dry overnight next I took some battery acid and I put that in there and that leaked all the way around it inside between the reindeer in the flywheel then the next day I took gorilla glue and I watched all the way around between the reindeer and the flywheel as it leaked in between them so now I am leaving that set for two days and if it seems OK I might leave it otherwise maybe I will put JB 80 over all of it anyway maybe I'm nuts I am not sure, if that does not work I will open it up and do it all over again.Like one of you said whatever it takes.Thanks much and down the road I will let all whatworked. Jack
 

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