ford 4400 tractor

snead · Dec 19, 2017

I just got a ford 4400 diesel tractor and want to get it back in shape to use on my small farm. My question, is the 4400 just another model in the 4000 series and if so how similar are they ie: are the parts interchangeable mine is a 3 cylinder diesel. I don't know anything about this tractor I got it from a friend for free, it runs but has issues, will appreciate any advice . :?

Destroked 450 · Dec 19, 2017

4400 is a industrial version of the 4000 ag tractor.
Same 201 engine
Could have same 8x2 trans, SOS or the industrial 6x4 trans.
Rear axle, brakes, pto, 3 point lift same as 4000
Front axle bolster and steering are similar to a 5000
The industrial king pin front axle and 24" rear tires give it a lower profile but also makes it a great loader tractor.

Sean in PA · Dec 19, 2017

4400 is actually the "Utility" model in the 4000 series. The "Industrial" model was the 4500.

The main difference between the 4000 ag chassis model and the 4400 Utility model is that the 4000 has a 3 piece adjustable width front axle and the 4400 has a single piece fixed width front axle for better strength in front end loader duties. The power steering is different as well. The early (pre-10/70) 4000's had the steering cylinder along the left side of the tractor and the later (after 10/1/70) 4000's had the cylinder integrated inside the steering column, while the 4400's had its steering cylinder sideways under the nose of the tractor for the entire production run.

The 4400 shared the same engine as the 4000, which would be a 192 ci gas up until 4/1/68, and a 201 gas after that or a 201
diesel for the entire production run.

The 4400 also could have come with any of the transmissions that the 4000 had available, which were the 4 speed (on the early ones), the 8 speed or the Select-O-Speed, and possibly the 6 speed but I'm not sure if they ever put those into either the 4000 or 4400. The 4400 could also have the manual reversing trans (4x2 prior to 4/1/68 and 6x2 after that) or the 4x4 torque converter power reversing transmission.

Ultradog MN · Dec 20, 2017

I had a 4400 that I went through
completely and repainted nice.
It was a nice size - short, low to the
ground. It was powerful and had great
brakes.
But I didn't like the power steering on
it. Way too many parts and linkages to
wear a little at each joint and make for
sloppy steering. Fine for a loader tractor
but not responsive or precise enough for
my main use, mowing.
I sold it and am building up another 4400
with different steering. Hoping it steers
better.

snead · Dec 20, 2017

MY ford 4400 has 16.9x24 rear tires on it now and they need to be replaced. I use this tractor on my small farm in north florida where most of the time the land is wet. would you know what the largest size tires I could put on these rims. my tractor does not have a loader.

Destroked 450 · Dec 20, 2017

Biggest ag tire I could find was 16.9-24
There's a 18.4-24 construction tire that's a little wider
but won't get the traction of a ag tire, 1" wider rim is also recommended for the 18.4-24.

If you want bigger and wider you need to look at 28" or 30" rims which also take different centers, $$.

snead · Dec 27, 2017

I have another question, in the manuals I have, all the oil and fluids use ford product names or numbers which cant be cross referenced. Does the transmission and rear axel use the same oil and is it any type of tractor Hydraulic fluid ? Also the power steering oil is it regular present day power steering fluid or something else .I appreciate all the help I have been getting .

Sean in PA · Dec 29, 2017

All of those old Ford specifications have been superseded over the years and the current spec is the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification. You can use any Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid (Commonly called UTF) that says on the label that it meets or exceeds the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification in the transmission and rear axle. Do not use any fluid that does not specifically say on the label that it meets or exceeds that spec. That tractor has wet brakes inside the rear axle, and if it has PTO then it has a wet clutch pack as well, both of which require special friction modifier additives, and the gears in the transmission and rear axle require other EP (extreme pressure) additives as well.

You can also use the same 134D UTF in the power steering. That way you only need to keep one fluid on hand.

snead · Dec 30, 2017

Thanks for all the help , I would really be stuck without all your help from this site. Because up till now I didn't know a thing about this tractor.

snead · Jan 7, 2018

Is the front axel of the ford 4400 tractor supposed to move when the tractor is in motion , mine seems to have a limited amount of travel in it as it goes over ground ,like a normal front end would move. not knowing anything about this it seems odd because the front axel is solid and has no shocks or springs., other than tie rods and ball joints I would think it would be solid and not have any movement at all.???? :roll:

Destroked 450 · Jan 7, 2018

The axle is connected to the front bolster with pivot pins, the axle can pivot up and down till it hits the pivot stop on the sides of the bolster.
There should be no back and forth movement, that would indicate worn pins and bushings.

snead · Jan 7, 2018

I have a lot of play in the steering wheel ,is there any way to tighten up the box or shaft , Is there any easy fix for this if not then what is the solution ?

Sean in PA · Jan 7, 2018

(quoted from post at 15:16:43 01/07/18) I have a lot of play in the steering wheel ,is there any way to tighten up the box or shaft , Is there any easy fix for this if not then what is the solution ?

Is the play in the steering column or in the linkage? look at the steering arm on the left side when you turn the wheel. If the arm moves as soon as you turn the steering wheel and the front wheels don't start turning until you turn the steering wheel some more then the play is in the linkage. If the steering arm itself doesn't move until you turn the steering wheel a bit then the play is internal in the gearbox at the base of the steering column.

snead · Jan 7, 2018

it seems like its in the gear box is there any adjustments short of replacing the gear box, if that is necessary how difficult of a job is that. ? :?:

snead · Apr 21, 2018

my 1974 ford 4400 front axel . seems to have too much front and reward movement I think the pivot pin needs to be replaced . can any one give me any advice on how to replace the pin and what is involved ? Is it too big a job for a shade tree mechanic. How hard is it to get the original parts out. :?:

Sean in PA · Apr 21, 2018

The pivot pin is to allow the ends of the axle to rise and fall with the terrain. The ends of the axle shouldn't have much movement front to back. Here's a link to the front axle and steering parts drawing.

4400 front axle and steering parts drawing link

There are actually two pivot pins on a 4400, the front one is the main one and takes most of the weight, The rear one is smaller and holds that tab that sticks out of the main axle and should restrict the forward/rearward movement of the wheels that you're describing. Perhaps that rear pin has sheared off?

snead · Apr 22, 2018

thanks , how big of a job is it to replace the pins and bushing. do I have to drop the entire front axel ? :?

snead · Apr 25, 2018

I still would appreciate it, if someone could tell me How big a job this is. and if I need to drop the whole front axel ? Or is it best left to a tractor repair shop because special equipment is needed.

Sean in PA · Apr 25, 2018

It depends on how much experience you have with mechanical work and what you have available in the way of equipment and tools. I've never done a front axle on a 4400, and they have that dual pivot pin setup, so I'm not 100% sure on everything involved, but you'll need to at least support the front of the tractor on stands and loosen the front axle support (bolster) from the engine and oil pan and slide it forward some. I'm not sure whether the bolster would need to be removed completely or not, but if so than you would need to remove all of the sheet metal from the hood panels forward and then remove the radiator (don't forget to drain the coolant first). Once you have access to the pins you will probably need a torch of some kind to heat things up enough so that they will come apart. If you remove the entire bolster with the axle and you have a hydraulic press then you might be able to press the pins and bushings out with that. Some folks here could do it in a couple hours. For me, it would probably be a one to two day job because I don't have all of the heavier duty tools that would make it quicker and easier.

snead · May 1, 2018

Sean, thanks for the reply I now know that I would be in over my head. Time to pay the pro's.

ford 4400 tractor

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