retorque 4000 4 cylinder Ford head

riveroadrat

Well-known Member
I have total rebuild on engine. When I torqued the head down I didnt clean the threads or bolts. I havent fired the engine up yet, Its been sitting for over a month but I want to retorque it for peace of mind by loosening all the bolts, cleaning threads and oiling before retorque. Would any of you pro builders do that or RUN IT LIKE IT IS?
 

Pull one at a time, clean, lube and retorque, then move to the next one.
Start with the center one and work you way around and out just like it's calls for.

After your done go back and recheck them all again.
 
if you loosen all the bolts I think you need to replace the head gasket - if I was losing sleep over the situation I would loosen one bolt at a time, clean, torque, and move on to the next one - - if the threads were clean enough to engage smoothly (I'm guessing they were or you would have cleaned things up) I'd run it -
 
I just had 1 or 2 that seemed to get tight near the end of torque value. I think I will try the 1 bolt deal. Arnold Schwarzenegger said people dont sleep because they think too much. Probably some good wisdom in that.
 

If they were getting tough to turn at the end it is possible that you are close to bottoming out. This happens from multiple head surfacings as well as debris falling down in the hole.
 
You asked for opinions so here's mine:

1. The engine hasn't been run so that's a plus.
2. Each bolt can be removed individually, cleaned, hole tap chased and blown out, and replaced and torqued without upsetting the overall position of the head gasket or the existing pressure on it.
3. Adding more pressure to the gasket should do nothing but help the seal.
4. Torque specs are usually for clean threads and vary as a function of wet or dry...aka lube or not. Resistance caused by foreign matter amounts to that; resistance to the wrench, not pressure on the mating surfaces (head to block). So basically, you are under torqued!
5. A total X pattern center to ends of the block when finished with initial bolt replacement and torqueing should round it out.
6. Would I do it? I would have done it initially, but for where you are yes.
 
..................and then recheck the valve clearances......course with the common rail valve train (process has been awhile back for me) you probably had it off to do the work anyway.
 

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