1966 4000 Brought Back To Life, now need a loader

Hi Guys,

Almost a year ago I bought a '66 4000 gasser from an auction with a hole in the block. Was my first decent sized tractor, by the summer we had it back in action. Probably would have been better off as a parts tractor, but it's back to live another day. Here's some of the old threads,
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1302711
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1303988

Ended up doing things the hard way and I bored out the new used block .020" by hand. :shock: Lost a good 2 weeks of my life doing that, but I saved a good bit of coin...

https://youtu.be/9I8J57MeDK8


When I got it,






Got everything back together and most of the bugs worked out, then was able to borrow a friend's 6' brush hog and do a bit of work putting a good load on the engine to help seat the rings in. The original holley carb is still working alright, but have not been able to get rid of the initial bog when you open the throttle. Runs well other than that.


(my dad stole it for a spin )



Next thing I want to do is find a loader for it, from what I can find the 772 is the direct fit. I know others may also, but I would like to get something with at least as much capacity as the 772. Roughly how much should these go for used?

I found what looks like a 4000SU gasser with a loader for $2200 with a blown head gasket, but it looks like the front cowling is part of the loader frame support. Is that the only difference on the SU loader? Could possibly swap everything over.

Glad to hear you got it running.
Don't know much about the ford loaders, 4000SU uses a 3000 style front axle so none of the front mounting brackets will work on yours.

Personally I'd look around for a aftermarket quick attach loader but they'll need to have the mounts with them to fit your tractor.

I've got a Farm Hand quick attach loader, I was able to find a front bracket and made the rear bracket.

I don't keep a loader on my tractor full time and the old full frame jobs are to much trouble to put on and take off for me.

I'll second Destroked's suggestion to get a quick attach loader. I bought a 772 for my first loader on my 4600. Worked ok, but was a major pain to put on or take off.... even if you left the frame in place.
Most loaders properly sized for a 4000 will lift as much or more than a 772. If you're really set on a 772, that front mount on the SU can be adapted to a standard 4000 with relatively little work... mine was originally on a 3000, and the neighbor I bought it from had it on a 4600.
I'd expect a 772 to sell in the $500-$800 range... less, if it's been beaten and welded-up.

I'd buy the one with the loader for $2200 and fix it, then you have two tractors, one that has a loader on it so you don't have to mess with taking it off. The one for $2200 sounds like its a industrial tractor by the way you say the loader is mounted. BTW, I've seen tractors that looked a lot worse than yours get fixed up, and put back to work, nice job.

That is good to know. I have heard about boring by hand but never knew that it was a real alternative. Thanks.

The "bog" upon acceleration is most likely caused by an inoperative accelerator pump, which is common. Overhaul the carburetor, using a genuine CNH kit. Most likely you will find the accelerator pump stuck or otherwise non functional. Disassemble and inspect the carburetor to verify that it is salvageable before ordering the expensive kit. Take both tractor and carburetor serial numbers with you when you order your kit. Failure to do so will likely result in the wrong kit.

Verify proper operation of the vacuum advance mechanism, also. Many are non functional. A non functional vacuum advance mechanism, affects engine vacuum upon acceleration, which, in turn, affects operation of the vacuum operated accelerator pump.

Dean

(quoted from post at 10:19:03 12/15/17) The "bog" upon acceleration is most likely caused by an inoperative accelerator pump, which is common. Overhaul the carburetor, using a genuine CNH kit. Most likely you will find the accelerator pump stuck or otherwise non functional. Disassemble and inspect the carburetor to verify that it is salvageable before ordering the expensive kit. Take both tractor and carburetor serial numbers with you when you order your kit. Failure to do so will likely result in the wrong kit.

Verify proper operation of the vacuum advance mechanism, also. Many are non functional. A non functional vacuum advance mechanism, affects engine vacuum upon acceleration, which, in turn, affects operation of the vacuum operated accelerator pump.

Dean

Click to expand...

I'm not sure how the vacuum advance will affect engine vacuum? Under acceleration you have low manifold vacuum. The vac advance is designed to increase fuel efficiency at part throttle. It responds to manifold pressure it doesn't create it.

At any rate, when you do pull the carb off look closely at the bore for the float pin. On mine it was so oval that there was no way to set the throat accurately. Made it not idle well and not hold steady rpm.

"At any rate, when you do pull the carb off look closely at the bore for the float pin. On mine it was so oval that there was no way to set the throat accurately. Made it not idle well and not hold steady rpm."

Bingo.

Mine too, which is one (only one) of the reasons why one should disassemble and inspect before buying the expensive CNH carburetor kit.

An egg shaped float pivot pin is not uncommon due to the heavy vibration of the three cylinder engine and will, indeed, preclude proper float setting. The Holley carburetor is sensitive to float setting due to the vacuum operated accelerator pump, which is why it is spec'd to the 1/32".

I was able to recondition the egg shaped float pin holes on my 68 4000 with epoxy but any such repair is a temporary repair. Have since sold the tractor.

Dean