round 2 on the power steering box on 3400 need info!

OK I had a leak intially in the upper
seal and I used a quick sleeve kit
online and it was a pretty poor looking
sleeve and needless to say the sleeve
came apart and started leaking within
like 20 mind ,the top hat part came off,
so seeing I have to take it back apart I
ordered a new adapter plate that came
with a new needle bearing and seals,is
there any tricks I need to know or is it
pretty cut and dry when I take the
hydraulic portion off?wasn't sure if it
would have plungers or anything fall out
and how tight should the nut be for the
bearing ? I'm going to use a longer
repair sleeve to hopefully avoid this
problem again the shafts didn't look
terrible by the eye,thanks!
 
Put in the search bar "Ford power steering rebuild" or similar phrase, hit search. When the page resets, hit search again. Older posts on the subject will pop up. You can also click on the Archives at the top of the page, but there are a lot of pages to go through there. When you take the control valve apart, you can lose parts easily there. It would be good to throw you an old white sheet under the tractor to catch things. You might be able to wrap a sort of funnel under the valve with ductape but the oil will get the glue all gooey. Also put in search bar Ford power steering control valve, there are posts there with pics. I believe the control valves are basically the same for 801 series and the 1965 and up tractors.
 
Did you follow instructions on the speedisleeve? Youre supposed to snip the hat part with cutters and peel it off to the break line. I also put locknut sealer on mine. Check your seal for damage. A speedisleeve has a slight bump before the seal goes over it. Its best to spin it a little when sliding the seal past.
 
The kit I bought online that came with
the seal and speedie sleeve didn't come
with instructions what's the correct
way?
 
Well like I said you need to remove the top part by cutting into it with wire pliers. Get a pair of needlenose pliers to peel away the top part that is used to drive it into place. You will see a break line where it will stop peeling off. Did you try the new seal on the shaft to see how tight it was before installing the speedisleeve. I think they have to be grooved pretty good to leak because the pump pressure is what actually presses the seal against the shaft. Usually rust pitting on the shaft is why you need a speedisleeve. Did you drive the sleeve on with a long pipe over the steering shaft? A little emery cloth on the break line will smooth out the edge. Did you also search in the Archives?
 
If the only problem you had was a seal leak thats all I would fix. I dont know what you have for a steering wheel but it needs to cover the top of the tube to keep rain and moisture out. There is also supposed to be a felt washer at the very top to keep moisture from condensing on the shaft as it cools. A lot of seal fails come from not having that felt washer.
 
I took it back apart last night and the
speedy sleeve just slides down with not
much effort ,I didn't need to pound it
down or anything did it by hand,and I
noticed the nut that holds the upper
bearing was loose so I removed it and
noticed there is a grove in like the top
3 threads and the bearing was shot so I
took the hydraulic box off and the
adapter and noticed the bottom bearing
was pretty destroyed too so going to
order the 2 bearings and races and a
felt gasket ,I'm not sure what I can do
with the steering shaft to fix this, I
was looking at aftermarket ones but are
like 300 so not sure what my next step
would be , just bond a speedie sleeve?
 
An autoparts store might be able to get you a sleeve of same size with a tighter clearance. I looked up some speedisleeves on fleabay. The size tolerances are about 8 thousandths on a 4" sleeve. They are probably less on a smaller sleeve. The tolerance on the sleeve you have should have been printed on the box. You can pick up a digital caliper at autoparts stores for about $20 to check your sizes. Or you can clean the shaft and sleeve good with mineral spirits or starting fluid and use red loctite or bearing set sealer to set the speedisleeve. After it sets good see if you can spin it by hand. If it holds you should be good to go. Just make sure you keep all those hydraulic parts in their place. You can start a new post on this and you will get more answers from others. I only work on the 801 series although your 3000 is similar.













oou can just clean the shaft up with mineral spirits or starting fluid and
 
Having the same issue with my Ford 2600. I ordered the Steering Shaft Repair Kit (SRK632AA) from Yesterday's Tractors only to find that the sleeve fits loosely on the shaft. No tapping required to move it into position at all. I don't know what my next step will be for the repair.
 

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