RR Ford 640 Hydraulic Lift assembly update

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With some painfully learned lessons, I want to first note that the I&T Manual from Tractor Supply has provided me with more info than the OEM service manual ever could. I wouldn't have had to purchase a new (used) control lever rod ($55 off ebay) had I had this manual. The overall issue is that the hydraulics would not completely lift.

So far:

-Upon visual inspection the linkage, and everything else for that matter, is coated with old hydraulic fluid that has since turned to grease.
-Not sure how loose all the linkage is supposed to be, but it's pretty sloppy.
-Removal of the cylinder was easy. Have yet to remove piston but a new one with seals has been ordered from this site.
-The friction plate was seized to the woodruff key, and it wasn't until after I had messed up the above noted control lever rod with a grinder did I finally split it with a chisel. (This was noted in the I&T Manual, so getting it a day late cost me $55)
-"Cam follower pin" on the Touch control linkage looks perfect, however the same pin on the draft control linkage is very FUBAR. It appears to have been rubbing against the main spring of the touch control linkage. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I attribute this to the amount of slop and wear at the connection point of the draft control plunger and the "fork" at the very rear of the lift cover. Also this pin looks to be work half through where I'm assuming it rides the cam on the lift shaft. (Ordered Zane Sherman's fix for this)
-One lift arm came off, but the shaft doesn't want to come out of the lift cover.
-The flat head plug that retains the spring and ball for the draft control lever had to be drilled and removed with an easy out, I found a seller on ebay that makes them a little better, but they're pricey ($16 shipped for 2, at least ill have a spare)

Now for the valves:

-Check Valve spring was found broken.
-I can see that the backpressure valve spring is "cocked" or broken as well but have not yet removed the checkvalve seat, and I'm pretty scared of doing it because I can't find the replacement part.

And that's where I'm at with this. If anyone here knows where I can find the replacement valves and seats I would grateful. I know form reading that they are color coded, but theres no color markings left on the lift cover assembly.

Feel free to post any questions or comments.
 
"One lift arm came off, but the shaft doesn't want to come out of the lift cover. " I think someone on here posted that one of the bushings comes out with the shaft to remove it. It should be covered in the manual.
 
Wayne,

I?ll get with you next week. Leaving tonight for WV to the farm so I won?t be back into this until Monday evening but I certainly appreciate it! So you have the check valve seat in that assembly?
 
So just a quick verification, you have the check valve/back-pressure valve assembly AND the unloading valve assembly as well?
 
Every thing that comes out of that hole. Including the back pressure valve. Guess I better go back to the shop and see what I have that has been laying on the shelf, I hope. for some time. I retrieve these items for another fella who decided he didn't need them after all.
 
I went out and looked.I need to apologies!! This old mind is slipping. I do not have the back preasurer valve and seat.. I have the plug, check valve ball,spring and the and I though I remembered pulling the unloading valve but it is not there..Sorry to lead you astray. I don't know what happened to the unloading valve .Guess this 80 plus year old mind is slipping faster than I thought.
 
Guess this 80 plus year old mind is slipping faster than I thought.

Don't feel bad my friend, you are not alone. I struggle daily with losing my mind and I'm 15 years younger. Probably won't know my own name in a few years. :) Getting older ain't for sissy's!
 
Ok gentlemen,

Cam follower pin replaced. Was very easy with a high tech drill press to get old one out. Thanks Zane Sherman!

Acetylene torch allowed to me to get the shaft out of the lift cover.

Gave the cylinder a slight home due to rust in a small area where the piston hadn?t reached its full travel for quite a while

Control valve and unloading valve appear in very good condition.

Will remove the check valve seat today hopefully. Pray it doesn?t break.

The fork is straight and no play at the pin but the plunger that it hooks to is very wallowed out. Will replace this to get Draft measurement correct.

I?ve determined after getting things pretty well cleaned up that the Draft Control spring is broken. Not the big one on the outside but the small spring on the Draft Control lever linkage. I just don?t see how this spring serves any purpose though. Could someone explain this one to me please?
 
7mf5mk7.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:08:22 12/20/17) The one to the right of that. The book states it is the
Draft Control spring.
hat spring is part of the Draft/Position toggle mechanism "T". When Draft/Position lever is moved to Draft, it moves 'LINK' so as to compress that spring and pull the bolt inside of it away from control arm "C" thus effectively disconnecting the position control input from the control arm and leaving Draft input via swivel "SW" as the input to the control arm.. Without that spring the toggle would not operate & latch as it should & Position control would never have input to control arm.
 
10-4. Is day the spring would still work but I?m gonna go ahead and replace it due to the fact that I am literally doing everything else. Thank you sir!
 

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