Help identifying and repair 2000

markkw

New User
Need some help identifying the year of this 2000 and getting parts and advice.

Injector pump is leaking fuel at the throttle shaft.
Clutch linkage is out of adjustment and the clutch still does not fully disengage.
Oil leaking at the clutch/brake connection to the gearbox under left foot rest.
Kingpins are sloppy.
This tractor greenhorn appreciates your assistance.
Blessings!
Kw



[img]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/markkw/My%20Machinery/IMG_20171121_161713898_zpsnludjllu.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/markkw/My%20Machinery/IMG_20171121_161713898_zpsnludjllu.jpg[/img]
IMG_20171121_161713898_zpsnludjllu.jpg
 


Not sure why the html img tags didn't work. If a mod can edit the post accordingly, I'd much appreciate it.
 

Mark,
Welcome to the Ford board.
You need about 10 posts under your belt
before they will allow you to post photos.
They do that to prevent spammers.
As to your repair questions;
Always, always mention whether you have a
1962-64 4 cylinder 2000 or a 65-75 3 cyl
model. They are completely different
tractors with the same model #.
Goofy huh?
As to your repair questions, I suggest you
buy the repair manual for your tractor and
read the sections that pertain to your
issues. If you still have questions feel
free to ask as the guys here are very
knowledgeable and can help you with Anything
on your tractor.
Click on the link below to buy the 3
cylinder manual.
Click here
 
I see photobucket in your photo string. Photobucket pictures will not display anymore unless you pay their fee
of $400 to allow 3rd party hosting.
 
here's ya picture-

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/markkw/media/My%20Machinery/IMG_20171121_161713898_zpsnludjllu.jpg.html" target="_blank">
IMG_20171121_161713898_zpsnludjllu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20171121_161713898_zpsnludjllu.jpg
</a>
 
Looks like a 3 cylinder 2000, or possibly a 2110 Low Center of Gravity model. It's got the later style tin and the later style power steering pump, so it was made on or after 10/1/68. Looks like it has the original generator.

It's got a twin stick trans, so it's either a 6 or 8 speed.

Looks like it has a diverter valve under the seat, which was an add-on.

Look under the right side hood panel, above the battery, to see if the foil sticker is still there with the Model Number, Tractor number (serial number), Unit Number, etc.

If the sticker isn't there, look for the numbers stamped into the flat spot just above and a little rearward from the starter. If you find the numbers in either location post them here and we can help you figure out exactly what it is and when it was made.
 

Thanks for the welcome, but I'm actually an old graybeard since I joined YT back in 1997. I was running the old Tool Talk and Inside Tools forums and was also active on this site also. Finally moved from PA to FL, my health failed and things were real bad for a long time. Anyway, by the time I got the ability to get back online, I couldn't get logged back in so I had to create a new profile. Now I'm just a greenhorn when it comes to owning a farm tractor.
 

Thanks for the info. I didn't know anything had changed. I haven't used Photobucket in a long time since I usually post straight to Facebook or on my own website.
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:56 12/14/17) Looks like a 3 cylinder 2000, or possibly a 2110 Low Center of Gravity model. It's got the later style tin and the later style power steering pump, so it was made on or after 10/1/68. Looks like it has the original generator.

It's got a twin stick trans, so it's either a 6 or 8 speed.

Looks like it has a diverter valve under the seat, which was an add-on.

Look under the right side hood panel, above the battery, to see if the foil sticker is still there with the Model Number, Tractor number (serial number), Unit Number, etc.

If the sticker isn't there, look for the numbers stamped into the flat spot just above and a little rearward from the starter. If you find the numbers in either location post them here and we can help you figure out exactly what it is and when it was made.

Sean,
Yes it's a six speed, three forward gears in two ranges.
One of the pictures shows the tin tag that's completely unreadable. I'll look for the stamped numbers tomorrow as it's at the neighbor's house.
 
<a href="http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Joecdeere/media/0960723D-D70A-4296-A874-15575201447D_zpsov0wydsd.jpeg.html" target="_blank">
0960723D-D70A-4296-A874-15575201447D_zpsov0wydsd.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo 0960723D-D70A-4296-A874-15575201447D_zpsov0wydsd.jpeg
</a>
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:56 12/14/17) If the sticker isn't there, look for the numbers stamped into the flat spot just above and a little rearward from the starter. If you find the numbers in either location post them here and we can help you figure out exactly what it is and when it was made.

Sean,
The stamped number is: B1112B
 
B1112B is a 2110, which is the Low Center of Gravity model in the 2000 series. It had a diesel engine, non-live PTO and a 6 speed transmission when it left the factory.
 

Thanks. I just learned the difference between a live and non-live PTO.

Now, do I need to know anything special in order to get the O-rings for the injector pump throttle and stop shafts?
 
I am not an expert on the injector pumps, but there are a few folks on here who are. Hopefully one of them will come along and answer your questions on that.
 

Thank you. I really appreciate the help. I would never have found the stamped number because it was covered in several layers of paint.

The critical grip right now is stopping the fuel leak. Second is stopping the hydraulic leak and adjusting the clutch. I can wait a bit on the brakes, kingpins and generator, but eventually I want to get everything fixed properly.

I watched a couple videos on Youtube for the injector pump, seems pretty straight forward to replace the pump shaft O-rings but I don't know if they're standard sizes or not.

I do have a stupid question about the 3pt lift. When weight is lifted off the attachment like the box blade, the height adjust handle drops to the full down position. Is there a way to stop that from happening or is something wrong with the adjustment assembly?
 
There should be a friction disk made out of a cork-like material behind the base of the handle. Try tightening the nut that holds the handle in place to see if you can increase the tension on the friction disk. If tightening that nut doesn't help then the friction disk may need to be replaced. Below is a link to the parts drawing for the hydraulic top cover. The friction disk is part #32 and the nut is part #27.

[u:ab5469d1e8]Parts drawing for 2110 LCG hydraulic top cover[/u:ab5469d1e8]
 

Many thanks for the link to the IPB's! I do believe the friction disc is missing and the locking bolt is definitely missing. I foresee this is going to be a great learning experience for me.
 

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