Okay folks, just picked this one up Friday afternoon. The good - According to the numbers, it's a 1970 3000 diesel manufactured in England. Not a bad looking tractor, got it for a C-note and came with a new seat..
Now the bad - Number one rod bearing spun. After looking at it, I may be able to polish out the rod journal and put in a new bearing. there appears to be no gouges on the journal, just some babbit sticking to it. I've seen worse cranks that were cleaned up and put back into service.
Now, I don't know much about these Ford tractor diesels, or how sturdy they are. All my diesel experience is with the Fairbanks Morse 2 cycle, 10 cylinder, opposed piston Submarine / power plant engine and the GM 3-71, 4-71, 6-71, and the 8V71 marine diesels.
The crank will turn over by hand, and number one piston moves up and down with no hanging. can't see too well up in there, but appears to be no piston gaulding or discoloration on the rod or cap.
I bought this tractor for the 8 speed tranny and 2 stage clutch / live PTO to replace the 7 speed single clutch on my 1966 2000.

So, should I spend the few dollars and attempt the cleaning of the crank with crocus cloth, or just go with my original reason?
Only one picture of the crank, looks like the worse spot after rolling it over, and a couple overall.
Let me know what you think...

Thanks,
Roger


P.S. sorry about the duplicate pictures, can't seem to find a way to delete the double...
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Crocus cloth isn't going to touch that rod journal. It's going to be a lot of work with something a little coarser to get it smooth enough to work in my opinion, and even then, I wouldn't have a good feeling about it. I'd be looking at all of the other bearings close before I got too carried away.

Looks like that thing got a 100-MPH paint job by the looks of that front grille.
 

Crocus cloth ( oiled) fit to journal width, wrapped neatly with a piece of COTTON Clothesline ..

Alternate pulling one end, then the other and add oil as needed and that will shine up good..
Just will take patience..

Ron..
 
Inspect the other journals for wear/damage from the tramp metal from the failed
journal. IF there is no other damage and the clearances are within service
gaps it is worth a try. The downside is if bearing shrapnel bypassed the oil
filter it could take out the bearings and ruin the crank. Inspect the internals
of the oil pump or replace.

IF it was mine; I would remove the engine and tear down. Have the rods magnafluxed
and trued. The rod that spun the bearing will need truing up. Depending on how
long the unit was run the crank may have cracks at that journal (magnaflux).

You have a repairable core at this point. You may be able to go the low bux salvage;
but your next shot will be much more expensive.

I am 2 for 2 and they were gas; not diesel.
 
Thanks for the reply Bern.
In my experience, I have polished, and have seen quite a few cranks polished with crocus cloth that looked worse than this. As Bushog Papa stated, just takes time and patience, which I have plenty of.

As for the paint job, yeah, I paid extra for those few rattle cans.....
 
Thanks for the reply ernied.
I do in fact plan on pulling the other two rod caps off for inspection, and will probably replace them also.
I also plan on looking at the oil pump and if need be, replace it too. The oil pan had no evidence of metal, so maybe most of it got caught up in the filter, a good cleaning is in order regardless.
As far as splitting, if I've got to go that far, I'll go with my original plan and just stick my 2000 engine on it.
Thanks again for your reply.

Roger
 

The crank may polish out but it doesn't look good, look the rod journal over good, if the bearing spun in the rod it'll need to be replaced.
These are extremely tuff engines and hardly ever have crank problems.
Look the oil pump over good and check the oil pump drive, I have heard of the oil pump drives hex rounding off, but personally haven't experienced it.

I'd have the crank turned if needed and replace the rod before before parting out a tractor for the engine, if that's all it needed.
 
Thanks for the reply Destroked.I was able to look at the rod journal, dosen't look like the bearing spun in the journal, rod side looks clean as does the cap.
I think I'll try polishing that journal to see if it will clean up, check the other rod bearings, check the oil pump and drive, and replace it and the other rod bearings if need be. If the journal mics out to within standard tolerances, I'll probably put all new rod bearings in it.

Thanks again,
Roger
 
Check the numbers under the hood and on the flat spot on the bell housing and make sure they match.

That nosecone and grill are not from a 3000. The are from a x600 series.

If it was a 3000 series grille from a tractor made in England it would be a two piece grill with the "F-O-R-D" lettering in the upper section and the lower section would have two round holes for the headlights.

The engine looks to be a 1969 or earlier thousand series as it has the canister style oil filter. And the 3 point lift only has a single handle so that is from a '65-'74 thousand series as well.

It would be interesting to see what the date codes on the major components are as well to see if anything else besides the grill might have been swapped out over the years.
 
Hey Sean,
Yes the grill has been changed, the two front headlights are still there behind it. As far as the serial and production codes, as far as I can determine it is the 3000 diesel manufactured in 1970 in England, The serial plate is still under the hood, but all the numbers that I can read don't match what is stamped into the bell housing. Since the grill was changed, maybe the hood too.
Here's what I've been able to read of the stamped numbers, inside to outside on the bell housing:

B1013C
OC4
B882059

And what I can read from above the oil pan stamped into the engine block:

CD06460

Can you figure it out?

Thanks,
Roger
 
B1013C stamped in the transmission says that the transmission left the factory on a 2000 ag chassis tractor with a diesel engine live PTO and an 8 speed transmission.

0C4 should mean that the tractor that the transmission was originally in left the factory on March 4, 1970, and the B882059 serial number says it was assembled at the plant in Basildon UK.

I think that you got the engine serial number incorrect. There should only be one letter at the beginning followed by a 6 digit number, so it is probably C006460 instead of CD06460, which would mean the the engine was made for a 3000 series tractor, and that it is a fairly early "New Model" 3000 engine, so it is probably from 1968 or early 1969. Check above where you found that engine serial number for a date code.

Since you say that the numbers on the sticker under the hood don't match the ones stamped on the transmission, what are the ones on the sticker?
 
Sean,
Some of the numbers are the same, but the letters are hard to make out. I'm at work right now so I'll have to look in the morning.
By date code, do you mean the casting number on the block?

Thanks,
Roger
 
Roger,

The engine production (date) code could be in one of two locations. The first, on the pre-4/1/68 tractors, is above and to the right of the engine serial number, as in the picture below:

mvphoto6874.png


The second location, on the 4/1/68 &amp; up tractors, is just to the right of the engine serial number, on the same rail, as in the picture below:

mvphoto6875.png
 
Sean,
I did look at the engine production number this morning, but left the paper at home. It was located on the front end of the block and stamped in as in your first picture. It started with 8D, but I forget the rest. Looking in my manual, it is a1968 engine.
So, I gather that what you said is correct, in that a P.O. put the 1968 3000 engine on the 1970 2000 tranny.
Now another question if you don't mind.
From reading through the specs in my Ford manual, I'm seeing that the 2000 and 3000 diesels have the same cylinder bore therefore using the same pistons. I see that the 3000 stroke is longer than the 2000, thereby increasing compression, horse power and cubic inch displacement by pulling the piston down the cylinder a bit further. If that is the case, then the rods must be the same length. Am I correct in this conclusion? Or are the rods different?

I'll post all the numbers in the morning when I get back from town.

Thanks,
Roger
 
Sean,
Here are the numbers that I could make out on the hood tag.

Tractor - B851349
Model - C1013C
Unit - 8D10B
Engine - 00640 * 8D09
Trans - 8D03B

Also I forgot to mention that the draft spring does have the cover over it like the 3000 series.

Thanks,
Roger
 

I'm not Sean but here's the info I have.

serial # B851349 indicates the tractor was built in Basildon UK but is a earlier number than on the transmission.
Model # C1013C is for a 3000 all purpose ag model with diesel engine, live 540 pto and 8 spd trans.
Unit assembly date 8D10B = Apr 10, 1968 day shift
Engine assembly date 8D09? = Apr 9, 1968 missing the shift letter
Not sure what D0640 stands for
Trans assembly date 8D03B = Apr 3, 1969 day shift


John

You earlier post saying the engines production number started with 8D which indicates the engine matches the hood.
Look for the rear axles production number on the mounting flange where the axles bolts to the transmission.
If it matches the hood sticker then it would indicate the transmission has been changed for some reason.
 
As Destroked said, it looks like the engine matches the sticker under the hood. The only numbers so far that don't match are stamped into the transmission, so it looks like the trans was swapped out at some point with one from a 2000, but not to worry, as the transmissions were identical between the 2000 and 3000 series.
 

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