Stabilizer Kit, Best for Ford 3000

tlevin · Nov 27, 2017

I recently bought a 1974 Ford 3000 Diesel. There is more play than I am comfortable with when the brush hog is attached. I want to purchase a stabilizer kit but need to be sure of the following:

1) all necessary parts are included;
2) most effective;
3) installation instructions or diagram included;
4) easy to use.

William Fissell · Nov 27, 2017

If you mean it swings from side to side thats pretty common and can tear up tires.

I just use two stabilizer bars I bought at TSC but COOP and other places have 'em too. The fit over the pins where the 3pt attaches and attach to similar pins under the axles just inside the hubs, also with linch pins. All you need are two of these and two extra linch pins. If your tractor doesnt have the attachment points under the fender attachments on the rear axle thay are easy to add.

I apologize if you already did this and are looking for more.

Ultradog MN · Nov 27, 2017

I do not like rigid sway bars on my 3000.
It makes your tractor and mower a looong,
rigid unit. Better to have some flex
between the tractor and mower. I tried
them for a while but quit using them.
I understand those little factory check
chains are not adequate if you have a
heavy rotary mower hooked up. I have broke
a couple of the check chain brackets
because I use a heavy mower. What I intend
to do is make up a set of sway chains that
hook up under the axle. Make them heavier
than the factory CHAINS but still leave
about 6 or 8" of flex between the tractor
and mower.
By the way, I wouldn't use them on
anything else but my big mower.
I don't like the things.

tlevin · Nov 27, 2017

(quoted from post at 16:32:54 11/27/17) I do not like rigid sway bars on my 3000.
It makes your tractor and mower a looong,
rigid unit. Better to have some flex
between the tractor and mower. I tried
them for a while but quit using them.
I understand those little factory check
chains are not adequate if you have a
heavy rotary mower hooked up. I have broke
a couple of the check chain brackets
because I use a heavy mower. What I intend
to do is make up a set of sway chains that
hook up under the axle. Make them heavier
than the factory CHAINS but still leave
about 6 or 8" of flex between the tractor
and mower.
By the way, I wouldn't use them on
anything else but my big mower.
I don't like the things.

I do have a pretty heavy mower. The chains are pretty heavy and do keep the mower from cutting into the tires. I just am not satisfied with the way it tracks behind the tractor. Three times, there was enough play in the drive shaft that it detached from the PTO.

tlevin · Nov 27, 2017

I could not figure out which bars to buy. I saw three different designs of flat bars. One has a bend, one is straight, and some have two small holes on one end. Thanks for the information.

Hobo,NC · Nov 27, 2017

My 69 3000 requires the end that fits under the axle have a bend in it to clear the axle housing near full lift.

My guess the two hole deal on the other end is for cat 1 and 2 pins... Best I remember mine has only one hole on each end. I do use them on a bush hog BUT I brought a Kubota it does the heavy work now.

William Fissell · Nov 27, 2017

(quoted from post at 02:24:25 11/28/17) I could not figure out which bars to buy. I saw three different designs of flat bars. One has a bend, one is straight, and some have two small holes on one end. Thanks for the information.

There are bush hogs where I cant lift it all the way either because the shaft impinges or something else. Your drive shaft should not be popping out.

If the shaft is a lilshort you can add an overrunning clutch.

Ultradog MN · Nov 28, 2017

I bought the ones that have the bends and
2 holes. The second set of holes are for
cat II tractors and the bend is so you
don't mash the little clips for storing
linch pins on your lift arms.
They are correct for your 3000.

Mike(NEOhio) · Nov 28, 2017

I bought a set from this site for my 2000. I use a Ford 3-point rake on some bad sidehills. They're about perfect. Also work well for the York rake. Had to make a bracket for the pin under the axle because one was missing. Just don't put them on upside down.

sotxbill · Nov 28, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:32:54 11/27/17) I do not like rigid sway bars on my 3000.
It makes your tractor and mower a looong,
rigid unit. Better to have some flex
between the tractor and mower. I tried
them for a while but quit using them.
I understand those little factory check
chains are not adequate if you have a
heavy rotary mower hooked up. I have broke
a couple of the check chain brackets
because I use a heavy mower. What I intend
to do is make up a set of sway chains that
hook up under the axle. Make them heavier
than the factory CHAINS but still leave
about 6 or 8" of flex between the tractor
and mower.
By the way, I wouldn't use them on
anything else but my big mower.
I don't like the things.

Most of the newer tractors have the outside heavy sway chains with a turnbuckle to tighten them up.. I hate them, I hate them, and I hate them. When no implement is attached, the pull the lift arms out due to weight. The lift arms then catch on the cleats of the rear tire, and it takes out chunks of tire... In one case, while backing up, a neighbor actually broke off the mounting ears for his lower links... destroying his axle trumpet. That was a $1200 fix. So the outside (euro) style stabilizer chains are the worse ideal ever. You have to keep a rope or bunch of bunge cords handy when ever you drive the tractor to tie the two bottom links together. And if your driving over rough ground, they always come loose and get into the tires again. DId I tell you the outside sway chains suck??? And the lower lift links on the bigger tractors are so heavy that they will break about anything you use to tie them with. They suck, they suck, they suck.... I have had to remove them and replace them with the rigid telescoping square shaft type, and they work perfect. Outside chain sway control is the worse ideal ever.

Billy NY · Nov 28, 2017

Could not have said it any better ! Those turnbuckles will load up with dirt, seize and when the lift arms spread out, tire cleats will catch and break off their corners. When I got my 4630 a few years ago, the square telescopic stabilizers on it are the best way to accomplish control on the lift arms. I've had all of the above, including hundred series with chains. The square tube with multiple holes for pins are the best hands down. They have enough adjustment for any position you need, they don't have threads that load up and seize, or deform. They do not allow the arms to swing out into the tires. Turnbuckles are commonly used on so many compact tractors and many others aside. Who in their right mind thought this was a good idea and why are they so common? They are worthless and just do not work.

Hobo,NC · Nov 28, 2017

My new Bota has those Square tube deals they work great.

tlevin · Dec 8, 2017

(quoted from post at 10:31:26 11/27/17)
If you mean it swings from side to side thats pretty common and can tear up tires.

I just use two stabilizer bars I bought at TSC but COOP and other places have 'em too. The fit over the pins where the 3pt attaches and attach to similar pins under the axles just inside the hubs, also with linch pins. All you need are two of these and two extra linch pins. If your tractor doesnt have the attachment points under the fender attachments on the rear axle thay are easy to add.

I apologize if you already did this and are looking for more.

tlevin · Dec 8, 2017

I followed your advise and ordered the sway bar kit from Tractor Supply. Installed them a week ago and tried them out. Big improvement! Thanks for your help.

Stabilizer Kit, Best for Ford 3000

tlevin

New User

William Fissell

Member

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member

tlevin

New User

tlevin

New User

Hobo,NC

Well-known Member

William Fissell

Member

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member

sotxbill

Well-known Member

Billy NY

Well-known Member

Hobo,NC

Well-known Member

tlevin

New User

tlevin

New User

Similar threads