Hitch

TinCan · Nov 27, 2017

If I unbolt the swing draw bar clevis from the rear end, will it drain the rear end?

I need to remove the whole assembly. The PO welded a heavy bar from the clevis to the hang, and two from the sides of the hanger angled to the clevis, and welded a steel ring to the back of the hanger, with bolts going threw it, and the PTO shaft housing. I think the housing is under it.

So now it is all one really heavy solid piece. I don't know why he needed it so solid, but it is now!

But I want to remove it for cleaning & painting.

Also, how is the draw bar held in place from side to side. This one has a 3/8" bolt dropped in on each side just hanging threw the holes on each side.

Thanks, Pat

sotxbill · Nov 27, 2017

wow... can tell what is welded to what..

the bottom swinging drawbar mount can normally be unbolted with no leaks.

the two chevron pieces < > that hold the sway chains can also normally be unbolted.

The center housing that the pto shaft sticks through,, can not be unbolted with out loosing fluid.

However in the picture, its hard to tell.. it looks like the two chevrons or clevis holders are welded to the drawbar mount, and also to the center pto housing.... Normally the chevrons < > have a bolt in the top and bottom...

And the swinging drawbar is held in place by the two bolts or two pins.. when not in use, it can be swung to one side and pinned.. or you can go underneath and pull the bobby pin(its on the top side), drop the main pin, and pull the draw bar out from the rear, and store it.

Royse · Nov 27, 2017

A guess on my part, but I think the PO welded it because the bolt
holes were stripped out or broken. I've seen a couple like that.
To put it back to original you may have to replace the center section.

They're not usually hard to find since they're not normally that far gone.
If you let us know your general location one of us may have one.

cdmn · Nov 27, 2017

The screws holding the front pivot bracket to the rear end housing could leak. In the beginning,
they had barely 1/8 inch of cast material above the screw. But if someone torqued in a screw a
little bit too long, they'd bust through. Same thing could happen if some grease was trapped
ahead of the screw. If it leaks, you'll need to seal the screw. I put a little near the last part
of the screw, so it doesn't get jammed into the hole when torqued.

Kirk-NJ · Nov 28, 2017

First your tractor is a '61 or later so it's either a later X01
or thousand series. As Carman said there wasn't much meat to
hold the outer perimeter bolts so they tend to break.
Drawbar has a pin underneath on the other bracket. Remove pin
and slide drawbar out. It's a swinging drawbar so the 3/8" bolts
are just to keep the drawbar from swinging from side to side.
I'm not sure how the metal ring is secured to the bracket. I can
see it's welded to the bracket around the outside but not sure
about the inside of the ring. It may be welded, hopefully not,
or it maybe just gunked up. By removing those bolt you are also
removing the PTO housing. So if you need to remove the bracket
you will have to drain the rear from plug underneath the
tractor. If PTO starts to come out with the bracket and does not
tap free, as in the PO welded it then the whole PTO shaft will
come out with it. In the case you will also need to drain the
hydraulic case.
If this is a working tractor you might want to reconsider your
painting option, as in paint in place.

Kirk

showcrop · Nov 28, 2017

I also have one with a broken hole.

TinCan · Nov 28, 2017

Well in a few minutes I'll be going out, and pull it off, hopefully! In that picture you can't see half of the welding that is there.
I can not tell the year of the tractor because it's a diesel, and the numbers are long gone. I call it a '63 because from the different things it is not a '62. Could be a '64, but I don't know!

The tractor is stripped bare of just about everything right now. Everything I removed is just about all painted, except for the sheet metal parts. Some of them are soaking in the molasses tank, to remove the surface rust. Which just about everything rusty has gone through, then pressure washed, then painted as I get it out.

I'll take some pictures after I get it off, then you'll see all the welding I'm talking about.

If the holes are stripped, I can heli-coil them, I've done thousands of them. If the housing is broke, I'll deal with that after I see what is really broke.

I don't think from just looking at it, that it is welded to the PTO housing. I hope.

Thanks, Pat

showcrop · Nov 28, 2017

(quoted from post at 08:24:22 11/28/17)
Well in a few minutes I'll be going out, and pull it off, hopefully! In that picture you can't see half of the welding that is there.
I can not tell the year of the tractor because it's a diesel, and the numbers are long gone. I call it a '63 because from the different things it is not a '62. Could be a '64, but I don't know!

The tractor is stripped bare of just about everything right now. Everything I removed is just about all painted, except for the sheet metal parts. Some of them are soaking in the molasses tank, to remove the surface rust. Which just about everything rusty has gone through, then pressure washed, then painted as I get it out.

I'll take some pictures after I get it off, then you'll see all the welding I'm talking about.

If the holes are stripped, I can heli-coil them, I've done thousands of them. If the housing is broke, I'll deal with that after I see what is really broke.

I don't think from just looking at it, that it is welded to the PTO housing. I hope.

Thanks, Pat

Maybe you can Heli-Coil them, I have put in a few myself but I don't think that they hold well in air.

TinCan · Nov 28, 2017

Ok, I went and pulled it apart. One thing I didn't realize was the bolt pattern on the back. It is the pattern of the PTO housing, not the hitch hanger bolts.

Well it did not leak any oil when I remove the four bolts underneath. When I went to remove the bolts on the back (PTO housing bolts) they each had some weld on them, to keep them from coming loose. I then cut them loose, and they are two different bolt sizes. he must have stripped one of them, and taped it bigger.

After I got it off, I saw that the lower left bolt hole was broken away, and the upper left looks like the bolt broke off, and when he tried to drill it out, missed it badly. I may be able with some luck, fix that one. I have not checked the threads in the other two bolt holes yet, but if they are good, then there will be a total of seven bolts to hold this monster on. After I fix the bolt holes through the hanger also.

Now that it is off, you can see what he made.

There is not to much to remove to paint it.

Pat

showcrop · Nov 28, 2017

Pat, I have four old Fords, all row crops. The one that has the broken hole I use only for pulling competitions so I didn't need to worry about it looking original. In fabricating my adjustable hitch for it, in order to relieve strain on the other bottom hole, I fabricated a plate that makes use of the three remaining draw bar bracket holes as well as the four PTO plate holes. It has held up for 17 pulling seasons. I would think that you could weld the swing ing draw bar bracket to the PTO bearing housing and have adequate strength, provided that you have seven secure bolts. I think that it is noteworthy how much the bottom view of what you took off looks like the bracket from new larger Fords.

Hitch

TinCan

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sotxbill

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Royse

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cdmn

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Kirk-NJ

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showcrop

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TinCan

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showcrop

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TinCan

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showcrop

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