High Engine Oil Pressure On A 861

KCTractors

Member
Location
Central Wi
A customer called me tonight with a question I can't find an answer for. He started a Ford 861 that sat for awhile. When he started the engine, the oil pressure went up to 80#'s and filled the oil gauge up with oil. What could cause such a high oil pressure? Is there a relieve valve in the oil pump?
 
80 pounds (or more) is quite normal when the oil is cold and the engine is revved. I'd be more concerned with what you have with the engine hot. 40-60 would be about right with the engine at normal operating speeds.
 
A new mechanical oil pressure gauge can be bought for $15 which suggest that they are a pretty cheap item and may not last forever. The first thing I would do is replace the one that is leaking before I looked for any other problem.
 
I agree. My '63 2000D with around 3750 original hours (proofmeter OEM and still working), no wrench on the engine proper, had for over 30 years, runs there too, always has. Starts right up in the winter usually with no starting aid indicating the rings are still in good shape to get the required compression and no bearing knocks.....must be the way it's designed.
 
ditto what the others said. Get a new gauge FIRST.

If the person is using some heaviy oil.. like 20w50 or 40w and it's coold, and the engine is reasonably tight, then when cold at high idle you can for sure get near 80 for a bit.

It should be closer to 55 on a tight engine once she warms up.

Till that gauge is changed.. you can't rely on it.

Finally.. YES.. it could be a stuck relief.. but I'd address the other issues first.

If it was suspected it was a stuck relief, I'd drain the oil in it if it was any of the heavy stuff mentioned, then I'd go buy 4 quarts of store brand cheap 10-30 synthetic engine oil, and a pint or two of seafoam.. and dump her in and let her run at low idle ... might just disolve or soften some parafinnic solids and let her start working again.

if that worked. Drain the oil.. change filter, and if it was me.. I'd go back in with the store brand 10w30 synthetic. store brand synthetics are only a little more per quart than name brand dino oils.

The last 3 tractors I've done any valve / head work on, have gotten synthetic cheap store brand oil and have had 0 problems for the last few years.
 

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