3000 ignition switch

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone. I have what I believe is a key switch problem on a 1972 (I believe) Ford 3000. Previous owner put another brand switch on it, and has done some rewiring as well because the wire colors don't match what's listed in the manual. I have identified the wire that goes to the safety starter switch and the (I believe) key switch feeder wire. My question is, what's the simplest way to ID the other wires? I have a replacement switch on order, and I'd like to put it back correctly.
Thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 16:58:12 11/23/17) Happy Thanksgiving, everyone. I have what I believe is a key switch problem on a 1972 (I believe) Ford 3000. Previous owner put another brand switch on it, and has done some rewiring as well because the wire colors don't match what's listed in the manual. I have identified the wire that goes to the safety starter switch and the (I believe) key switch feeder wire. My question is, what's the simplest way to ID the other wires? I have a replacement switch on order, and I'd like to put it back correctly.
Thanks.
ow many unidentified wire remain?
 
Does it have a thermostart? Some did,some didn't. Have the original ends been cut off the wires? I tell my customers all the time, don't worry about the color of the wire, electricity doesn't care what color wire it runs through. A simple 12v test light and an ohm meter will solve most any old tractor electrical problem. The new switch, if correct will have 2 flat terminals that are larger than the rest. One is the 12 supply and one is the thermostart. Take the ohm meter and find out which is the power supply to the switch, Turn the switch to the on position, see which terminals are on, mark those, go to the start position and mark those. One will be the other big terminal going to the thermostart, The big brown wire hooks to it. The wire coming from the Neutral switch(they are very prone to failure also) will go to the other terminal this picks to the starter solenoid. Your head lights and dash feed off the switch also, and any other accessories that might be there. A simple process of elimination is all that is required.
 
It?s a gas model, so there?s no thermostart. Someone put a John Deere switch with seven terminals on it. The neutral switch is good. I got power to the wire going to it and the starter motor ran. I can?t find a terminal that has power at the start position, so I ordered a 3-position switch to replace it. When the switch comes in, it?ll be me, the switch and the multimeter. Thanks for your advice.
 
The feed to the light switch is connected common to the battery power feed and not switched. The accessory feed is powered when the key is ?on? and sends power to the ignition coil and proof meter.
 

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