4 cyl ford 2000 12 volt conversion problem

I'm having a problem with my 12 volt conversion. I bought and installed the conversion kit from this site. The problem is that while the engine turns over great, it only fires when you let go of the starter switch. (It usually takes a couple of tries) I am using the original 6 volt solenoid with 4 connectors (2 big ones, battery and starter)and two small ones. I have wired the starter switch, which grounds the solenoid to the safety switch, and the other one to the key switch (so you can't start it without the key being on) I have lost the installation instructions and wiring diagram so no help there. I found that if I run power directly from the battery to the coil (the original 6 volt coil) that it starts up fine. This sends 12 volts directly to the coil. Once it is running, I can remove the wire and it runs fine. It appears that the coil is not getting enough voltage for the engine to start with the starter motor running, thus when I let go of the switch, there is sometimes enough momentum left to start up. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong, and how to solve it. Also, does anyone have a wiring diagram and instructions? While we are at it, is there any way to hitch up the idiot light for the single wire alternator in the kit?
Sorry about the long-winded post.
Thanks
Tex

First. If you have not already done so install at least two in-line blade fuses. One of these should go to the primary wire that supplies power to the ignition and solenoid small connectors. A lot of tractors have caught fire due to a lack of fuse boxes or fuses. For this reason keep a fire extinguisher handy until you are sure the wiring is correct.

If I interpret this correctly you have to turn the ignition switch while pressing the starter button or gear shift down? Once the tractor is cranked and the key released it rotates to the aux position or is momentary. Is that correct?

1. Make sure the power for the ignition is always hot and does not draw current across the small connector of the solenoid. This will cause a voltage drop. If necessary power the primary wire to the ignition switch directly from the battery like some systems or off the solenoid hot side.

2. Check the power to the ignition coil and make sure it is fed off the aux or second ignition switch lug and not the momentary lug.

3. The safety interlock wire going to the push button switch and small connector on the solenoid should be powered through the third or momentary lug. This should also have a blade fuse installed.


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On paragraph labelled 1. It should read "Make sure the power for the ignition switch is always hot". Since we cannot edit I could not correct the original.

Check the resistance of the resistor supplied with the kit. If it is more than 1 1/2 ohms replace it. I have seen several kits with too high value resistor and acts as yours does.

Jumpering direct to coil has shown that resistor is the problem.

(quoted from post at 02:51:37 11/12/17)
If I interpret this correctly you have to turn the ignition switch while pressing the starter button or gear shift down? Once the tractor is cranked and the key released it rotates to the aux position or is momentary. Is that correct?

Click to expand...

4 cylinder 2000s, in their OEM configuration, only had a 2 position (ON/OFF) ignition switch. You are thinking of a post 65 application at best.

On the 58-64 tractors, a hot wire went to one of the small posts on the solenoid from the switched side of the terminal block. The ignition switch had to be on for the starter to crank. The other small terminal went to the starter switch which is simply a means to apply a ground.

go ahead and try start with ignition key off. If it still turns engine, then remove the wire from small solenoid terminal that you wired to ign sw and instead, wire it to coil. Bet it works now, if you haven' t changed from the original type solenoid.

never mind. I was thinking later 3 cyl tractor. Focus on added kit resistor. May be too much resistance. Commom kit problem.

(quoted from post at 09:59:13 11/12/17)

(quoted from post at 02:51:37 11/12/17)
If I interpret this correctly you have to turn the ignition switch while pressing the starter button or gear shift down? Once the tractor is cranked and the key released it rotates to the aux position or is momentary. Is that correct?

Click to expand...

4 cylinder 2000s, in their OEM configuration, only had a 2 position (ON/OFF) ignition switch. You are thinking of a post 65 application at best.

On the 58-64 tractors, a hot wire went to one of the small posts on the solenoid from the switched side of the terminal block. The ignition switch had to be on for the starter to crank. The other small terminal went to the starter switch which is simply a means to apply a ground.

Click to expand...

I was not sure about the ignition switch on these. That is why I asked if his ignition switch is three position and momentary, but you are possibly right if it is a two position switch.

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YT's kit description says it uses the old six volt coil. It should have a dropping resistor which is as everyone has said probably too high.

Starting when letting go of button is indicative of low coil voltage.

Do away with the resister and put a IC14SB 12 volt coil on it ,it needs no resister

Problem Solved! It was the resistor.
Thanks for all the responses.
Does anyone know how to get the idiot light to work with a 1-wire GM alternator?

Thanks Again!
Tex

As I recall, having installed one on a 4 cyl 4000 many years ago was that at idle, with the pulley that I had...may have been the existing generator pulley, the alternator didn't spin fast enough to generate enough voltage to exceed the existing battery voltage which would turn the light out, like happened when I upped the rpms a bit.

If you can rev it up and the light goes out suggest a smaller pulley on the alternator and you may have to get a shorter belt. On the pulley remember the circumference is 3.14x the diameter. So changing from a 3" to a 2 ?" is a big deal. Since aluminum sheaves aren't very expensive, you might do some numbers or just get one a quarter inch in diameter smaller and another half inch in diameter smaller.

On the numbers, check idle rpms and rpms where the light goes out. Take the difference as a ratio and reduce the circumference of the new pulley by that amount.

"Does anyone know how to get the idiot light to work with a 1-wire GM alternator?"

Check the connector pins on edge of alternator. If they are not jumpered together you can try connecting the wire from the lamp to the #1 pin. If it works you may also find that your alternator will begin to charge without reving the engine.

If that does not work, or the tabs are jumpered together replace your 1 wire with a 3 wire. Connect #1 pin to lamp and loop #2 to alternator output.

That is one disadvantage of a 1 wire alternator, if connected as designed you lose your indicator lamp function.