4000 Oil Filter Adapter Kit Installation not going well

Hello Everyone,
I purchased an oil filter adapter kit for my 1967 4000 3 cylinder gas tractor. Based on what I read and reviewed it looked like it would be pretty easy. Once I got the old filter off It appears that there is a piece that needs to be removed in order to install the spin or filter kit. I've
attached a picture of what I'm looking at. I put a 1.5" socket on the nut/ bolt and could not get to move with a breaker bar with a 3' pipe extension. I won;t say that I really "reefed" on it, but considering the amount of force I put on it without moving it I'm concerned if I go with even
more force that I'll break something on the engine block or ??? any advice here? My thought at the moment is to abandon the conversion kit and return it.

Also have a factory loader that is in the way of easy access to the oil filter so the spin on would be a nice upgrade.

Thanks,

JohnB
a177352.jpg

a177353.jpg
 
If you have access to a torch, heat the bolt up and smack it with a BFH a few times and then try again. Don't be afraid to reef on it - it would be almost impossible to break that block in that beefy of a location.
 
It's probably loctited in there so as not to unscrew and get lost.

You ain't gonna break the block, get a good 6-point socket on there and whatever length "cheater" it takes to break it loose, and have at it!
 
Questions:

My 1973 is already spin-on. Is the canister adapter one piece with an integral nut and are the adapter threads right hand?
 
Two piece, back plate w/gasket and center adapter bolt/nut. Not sure on left hand vs right hand thread, but will look when I get home.
 
H2O-Control-Guy,

What I mean is the piece you are trying to remove. Is it one piece or two piece.

The adapter you describe will answer one question, i.e. whether it is right hand or left hand thread.

I have to worry about these things sometimes when I am working on something where breaking a bolt or stripping internal threads off might cause expensive or irreparable damage to a block or crankshaft (The front pulley bolt).
 
Have to take that nut off when block gets hot tanked. There is a gasket behind it. I still have a 1 1/4 in socket to do that job. It is ground around the edges until the points are flush with the edge. Other wise you will round the nut and then the fun starts. 6 point socket is best but must be ground too. Use care to get gasket seated, RTV on one side and let it set a bit before assy. Do not let the plate spin as nut tightens as there is a up orientation to it.

It takes a lot of torque to remove the but.
 
Think of a hot tank as a bath tub for bare engine blocks. Usually contains some sort of caustic solution to help remove grease and other deposits.
 

As said get a good 6 point socket and grind it flat, I like using a good impact gun.
Bolt has right hand threads but are normally real tight.

When installing the adapter put some blue thread sealer on the bolt and make sure not to over tighten the bolt.
Get it good and snug but don't bare down on it.
I broke my first adapter trying to get it extra tight.
 

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